Touch Up Bluing

[jimmyj]

I have been asked to clean and touch up blue some firearms that was found in a closet by a widow.
Has anyone used Brownell's "Oxpho-Blue" ? Liquid or Paste?

Thanks,
Jimmy

 

[Narragansett]

Depending on what you have you could possibly be destroying the value of a gun by touching it up, and cleaning it how? Just a thought

 

[jebstuart]

Oxpho blue "cream" is great stuff. This is what I do: lightly oil the metal first and then use the oily cloth to apply the cream. By this method, the blue goes on slowly and there is no blotchy effect. Keep the cream away from good, existing blue because it will remove it if you are aggressive. Obviously, pour out small amounts and never let oil into the bottle. Anyway, that's my 2 cents, & worth every penny.

 

[dfariswheel]

As above, first make sure the guns aren't really valuable.
Touching up the bluing can destroy a good bit of value on a gun that's worth money as-is.
Also note that most cold blues will leave permanent stains in the original bluing around where the cold blue was used.
This may make it look worse, and most people seeing cold blue use will offer less money.

Degrease thoroughly with Acetone then liberally flush with 91% Isopropyl or denatured alcohol.
Warm with a hair dryer to dry and warm the metal.
Bluing works better with warm metal.
Note: hair dryer, not torch or heat gun.

 

[chief38]

Brownell's Oxpho Blue Paste and Birchwood - Casey Permablu is what I use. They are about the 2 best cold blues out there and while they are two of the top cold blues they STILL are no wheres near permanent. I've tried all the tricks with heat etc. and initially results are good. However if the touched up section is an area that is handled often like a front or back-strap - it has not held up long term - at least for me.

 

[H Richard]

The one advantage of the Oxpho-Blue is you can "build up" the bluing. If the first application is too light, apply a 2nd, 3rd, etc application until the match is the best. Let the final coat "rest" for several days, then aply a coat of Renaissance Wax or Johnson's paste wax.

 

[hobby-gunsmith]

touch up bluing

Hi Jimmy:
The best product I found is Brownell's Formula 44/40 Instant gun blue. There is a procedure you must follow to achieve the best instant bluing possible. First, degrease the area, when dry use alcohol over the area. Second, do not touch the area with your hands to contaminate it. Heat, with a dryer to room temperature around 80 degrees. Take a cue-tip and dip it into the formula and swirl it around the ridge of the bottle to remove excess liquid. Apply the liquid over the area. Caution: do not use the same tip in the bottle. You will contaminate the liquid. Use a fresh cue-tip each time. I would use the formula a second time. Once it is dry, use a paper towel with water and go over the area. Once you dry it then apply gun lubricant over the bluing. That will keep it from rusting. It is very important that you do this for that very reason. I have used it over screws, some areas of the gun with excellent results. The bottle of 44/40 will last you a long time. Remember to recap the bottle after you apply the liquid to the area or you will surely spill the contents and do not re-use the same cue-tip for a subsequent application. I have done both and learned from my mistakes.

Nick

 

[Alk8944]

As long as I have been working on guns, about 60 years, the best "cold blue" I have ever used is Oxpho Blue paste.

 

[FifthWheel]

I've used Oxpho blue paste on shooters and highly recommend. You can't tell where it's been applied. Carbon steel only though and some guns have different results.

 

[Hondo44]

Oxpho blue paste, many coats on warmed metal. Heat between coats.
The only other comparable is:



Buy Nu Blue here:
http://shop.stockdocusa.com/main.sc and at Amazon.

How-To video:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2s74SZELCE[/ame]

I use the OxPho Blue cream and/or Nu Blue. I think you’ll have decent and similar results, however, contrary to the test (below), I heat the metal for both products. OxPho Blue also performs better with heat, any cold blue does. And I like the cream for controlling application and staying where you put it.

Just clean very well with acetone. Heat the surface with a hair dryer and apply OxPho blue cream (not the liquid), or Nu Blue. Do not get either on the existing blue, it will stain it and just make the repair area larger. Do not use the 400 grit paper for a bright shiny blue, and I use 4/0 brass wool (steel wool can leave bits of metal in the pores that can rust).

Bluing Products Test:
Various Products tested here: Very comprehensive cold bluing product comparison test. Ox Pho blue faired well but Nu Blue takes the prize!
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...topics/8743943/Evaluation_of_several_cold_blu

 

[stu1ritter]

I started using Nu Blue after seeing the tests and find it has a really nice shine to the finish after the 3rd or 4th coat using a professional level heat gun.

Stu

 

[jag22]

I think it depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. If you are trying to reblue the entire barrel then yes, you may be affecting the value. I use a pen to touch up the barrel end, just looks better. I don’t worry about value since it wears away after a couple of trips to the range. Reapply to look good again.