Toyota V-6 Oil Change ugh!!

[Engineer1911]

Doing an Oil Change:

I pay my local guy about $50 for an oil change. I did my own for years and I'm pretty sure I can get under there, but getting back out and up is another story lol

STEP #1: Install knee pads on both your knees. Position cardboard under vehicle engine and engine oil filter.

Step #2: Proceed like you used to do the work 10 years ago.

 

[VaTom]

Back in the late seventies, I was a base engine engineer and ran a bearing study using different oils from various companies in an attempt to write a specification for the Ford Parts and Service Division (Motorcraft). I spare you the details, but the absolute best temperature data and tear down results were with Mobil 1. FPSD wanted to replicate their formulation using a different vendor. No way!

My message (again) is there is NO economy in using anything but a full synthetic oil.

Toyota branded oil is Mobil 1. Remember when synthetic oil first came out, Corvettes came from factory with Mobil 1.

 

[ZGrand]

I still change the oil on all my vehicles myself. The Toyota Highlander 3.3L V-6 is the most time consuming. The filter itself is a normal spin-on type, but to get to it you have to remove a splash shield held on with 8 bolts and 2 push pins. Not difficult - just a pain.

 

[arjay]

STEP #1: Install knee pads on both your knees. Position cardboard under vehicle engine and engine oil filter.

Step #2: Proceed like you used to do the work 10 years ago.

All those years of carpenting took a toll. I'm all stove up

 

[Engineer1911]

My mechanical knees require padding.

 

[Ματθιας]

Back in the late seventies, I was a base engine engineer and ran a bearing study using different oils from various companies in an attempt to write a specification for the Ford Parts and Service Division (Motorcraft). I spare you the details, but the absolute best temperature data and tear down results were with Mobil 1. FPSD wanted to replicate their formulation using a different vendor. No way!

My message (again) is there is NO economy in using anything but a full synthetic oil.

Is it a good idea switch to a full synthetic in a high milage vehicle that's had Dino oil for all of its life?

I have a late 70s F150 w/the 351M and just over 100K. It's been in the family since new and runs great - It's a grocery getter. I've heard different things about synthetics in older engines. I'm running a "high milage" blend.

 

[Oldengineer]

Most of the negativity comes from the early days before Mobil added a seal swelling additive. The complaint was leakage. Mineral oils by their nature swell seals. Once that was figured out, the other "problem " was that the flat viscosity synthetic was getting to places the old fat mineral oils were not.

To answer your question; synthetic oil will not repair worn parts, but it sure will help protect against localized welding (wear) when in a boundary lubrication condition….think cold starts. I use skinny Mobil 1 in/on all of my stuff. I'm sure others have very good products today. Mobil oil was the pioneer, derived from military jet aircraft in the 50's that were killing wheel bearings on landings. That synthetic grease was called "chicken blood."

 

[Jack Flash]

Is it a good idea switch to a full synthetic in a high milage vehicle that's had Dino oil for all of its life?

I have a late 70s F150 w/the 351M and just over 100K. It's been in the family since new and runs great - It's a grocery getter. I've heard different things about synthetics in older engines. I'm running a "high milage" blend.

For one that old, you may want to research ZDDP additives.

Oil formulations have changed over the years, with the government requiring less zinc and phosphorous, as these can drastically shorten the life of a catalytic converter. But older engines NEED these substances to minimize wear.

So read up on it and see what you think. Bob is the Oil Guy is a good website for all oil questions.

Edit-----------------
I do not know if your truck even has a cat. That would be good to know.

 

[Oldengineer]

It's not that bad after you've done it once. A bit of a learning curve but quite manageable. The proper cup wrench is necessary but not expensive.

For one that old, you may want to research ZDDP additives.

Oil formulations have changed over the years, with the government requiring less zinc and phosphorous, as these can drastically shorten the life of a catalytic converter. But older engines NEED these substances to minimize wear.

So read up on it and see what you think. Bob is the Oil Guy is a good website for all oil questions.

Edit-----------------
I do not know if your truck even has a cat. That would be good to know.

Catalysts are poisoned when an engine uses oil. The oil when combusted produces zinc pyrophosphate that covers the reactive material with a fluffy coating that kills catalyst efficiently. Ford spent billions to upgrade engine plant manufacturing to make round bores, etc. that didn't use oil.

 

[Jack Flash]

I've seen a lot of information that the government mandated reformulating engine oil to reduce zinc and phosphorous, out of fear they were killing the cat. Is this not true? Or was the mandate for other reasons?

Mr. Ματθιας can easily check to see if his truck has a cat.
If not, this is all moot anyways and it may be prudent to do some research on the wisdom of using an oil additive.

 

[fiasconva]

A little PSA for you all: If you have a Take 5 Oil Change franchise in your area they give a 25% discount for veterans.

 

[Oldengineer]

If my memory serves me correctly (big if) zinc and phosphorus are good extreme pressure carriers that act to minimize localized welding/scoring (wear). Other elements like sulfur have taken their place in motor oil. The risk was a very expensive emissions recall to replace the catalyst so that the vehicle was back in compliance. The fix was better engines that don't burn oil and oil that didn't create zinc pyrophosphate. No cat. No worry.