Trading in 66 for a 686?

[kbm6893]

I have a pristine 66-2. I am thinking of getting a 686. I would not want a 686 with the internal lock. I would want it to be in similar condition to my 66. I really like the 66, but the 686 is much more stout and will stand up to more abuse. if I decided to trade towards a similar condition 686 (not a 686+), what would I expect to pay after the trade?

Just curious. No real rush to make the trade. The 66 is a very nice gun. and no, I can't get both! The 66 gets almost no use, maybe 100 rounds a year. I shoot mostly .38, but would like the option of running some .357 through it, other then 158 grain.

 

[kbm6893]

I have a pristine 66-2. I am thinking of getting a 686. I would not want a 686 with the internal lock. I would want it to be in similar condition to my 66. I really like the 66, but the 686 is much more stout and will stand up to more abuse. if I decided to trade towards a similar condition 686 (not a 686+), what would I expect to pay after the trade?

Just curious. No real rush to make the trade. The 66 is a very nice gun. and no, I can't get both! The 66 gets almost no use, maybe 100 rounds a year. I shoot mostly .38, but would like the option of running some .357 through it, other then 158 grain.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

Depends on the dealer, you could get between $400 and 450 from a dealer in Ohio. I would go to a gun show and walk around with it for 525 bucks and take 500 for her then buy a 686. Then they will knock off 25 to 50 bucks for cash. The 686 will cost from 475 to 650 depending on the gun you buy, this could be used to new --SHOP-SHOP-SHOP

.

 

[18DAI]

If possible, I would try to find a nice 686-4.

I would also try to buy the 686 before I let the 66 go. You can always get $400 or more for a nice 66-2.

I would try to get the 686 and see if you like it better than the 66 first.

I have three L-frames, and a dozen K-frame magnums. The 66 just handles quicker, points more naturally, and is less bulky in the cylinder area, for me. It is slightly lighter as well.

Since you don't shoot much, I would not worry about shooting 357's in that 66. As long as you stick to 158 grain, I would bet it outlasts you. Good luck with your decision! Regards 18DAI.

 

[stevieboy]

I have both and I'd hate to have to give up either of them. The 66 is a lighter gun. It points very easily and balances very well in my hand. It has an advantage over the 686 in any situation where rapid target acquisition is key. The 686 feels much heavier. It's subjective, I know, but target acquisition is slower for me with my 686 than with my 66. On the other hand, the 686 really soaks up the recoil. I find shooting magnum rounds with the 66 to be borderline uncomfortable. I could shoot the hottest magnums all day long with the 686. I find that I shoot slightly more accurately with the 686 than I do with the 66. I'm not sure why that's so, but, maybe, the heavier front end on the 686 compensates a little better for hand shake. I doubt whether the 686 is intrinsically more accurate than the 66. As I said, I'm glad I have both and don't have to decide between the two of them.

 

[Rolan_Kraps]

I sold/traded out all my K-Frames for L-Frames so I only needed one type of speedloader for my Smiths and Rugers.

 

[WJR]

Originally posted by Rolan_Kraps:
I sold/traded out all my K-Frames for L-Frames so I only needed one type of speedloader for my Smiths and Rugers.

I am in a similar position. I like using the same speed loader for my GP100 and my 686s.

WJR

 

[Stillwater788]

I totally agree with 18DAI - under no circumstances would I part with the 66 before putting in some time with a 686. The 686 is a fine revo, but the 66 is IMHO a classic in terms of balance and handling. I've got both - all 4 inchers - and I'll always have both. If you want the extra frame size with some of the superior handling characteristics of the 66, you might take a look at the 686SSR model - it has a lightened barrel and half underlug to improve handling. I'm going to switch from 65/66 K frames to the SSR in IDPA to see if the concept works for me. Of course, the 686SSR has the IL which might be a deal killer for you, but is of no consequence to me in a game gun. All said, it really comes down to which revo feels better in your hands.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by kbm6893:
I have a pristine 66-2. I am thinking of getting a 686. I would not want a 686 with the internal lock. I would want it to be in similar condition to my 66. I really like the 66, but the 686 is much more stout and will stand up to more abuse. if I decided to trade towards a similar condition 686 (not a 686+), what would I expect to pay after the trade?

My guess would be about $150 - $200

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by Stillwater788:
I totally agree with 18DAI - under no circumstances would I part with the 66 before putting in some time with a 686. The 686 is a fine revo, but the 66 is IMHO a classic in terms of balance and handling.

+1, that says all I was going to say.