Trigger Boss broken

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Solingen, Germany
Today i was on the shooting range together with my wonderful nickel plated model 27-2 5" barrel. Suddenly I realized, that the cylinder was not rotating anymore. I thought, that the hand was broken, which happened before with one of my other guns. When at home I checked the gun and much to my surprise I detected a broken trigger stud. Strange enough, I had another modell 27-2 6" barrel with broken hammer stud. Does anybody have an explanation why this happens? I usually shoot real magnum loads, but not maximum loads. Do you think that a competent gunsmith can repair the gun without optical effects? I know, a lot of questions, but I'm really unhappy because this is my favorite gun for target shooting.
Thanks
Rainer
 
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Posting this question in the Gun Smithing section may yield better results.I know on older S&W's the Hammer and Trigger pin are threaded in and can be easily replaced(IF you can find the parts that is).
 
I sent a model 66 back to the factory, with the same problem. It was returned in the same condition, no help from them. Boo, hiss!
 
It has been years since I have had a side plate off of a revolver, does the sideplate have a hole to fit over the trigger stud? It seems to me that a compentent machinist could either drill from the inside in the center of the broken stud boss and either tap it or press a new stud the right size into the hole. Then you could heliarc the outside and carefuly dress it down flush and polish, wouldnt help on a nickle plate one but on a blue I believe it could be done and not be noticeable. Surely there must be some one some where providing this service. Jeff
 
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Hi Bill,

the SN of my 2 model 27 (on broken hammer stud and one broken trigger stud) are as follows: N 638164 (trigger) and N 496525 (hammer). Both are nickel guns. Noe you can check if yours is close to mine. I cannot follow the theory that it is because of a heavy rebound spring. I use 13lb Wolff springs for target work. Normally it should not happen. One friend told me that this may me that this could happen because of the chemical pre-treatment of nickeled guns.
Rainer
 
"One friend told me that this may me that this could happen because of the chemical pre-treatment of nickeled guns."

If true, that does bring up some product liability issues. I don't know - it has not happened to me regarding my only Nickeled S&W - a 29-3. I have encountered other problems with it, which I feel are S&W's fault, that have left a sour aftertaste, but unrelated to the hammer stud.
 
I have never had this happen on one of my guns, nor did I see it in the 16 years that I did gunsmithing, but the subject did ring a bell from my Army missile development days. The Engineers and Quality Control guys were always concerned with something called "hydrogen embrittlement" on plated parts. I just looked up the term on Google, and it sure looks like what may have happened here.
 
I lube all the metal to metal contact moving parts with moly. So no binding will occur. Does anyone ever lube these studs?

I lube the OP rod, the gas tube and recoil springs on my ak 47's too along with the bolt carrier/bolt and trigger sear too with moly. It feels like a better quality gun action wise. It cycles faster and smoother too.
 
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to replace this, the factory does what is called a crown stud. I had this happen to my old 27-1 that had at least 100,000 through it by that time. had it fixed and about a year later the trigger stud broke. back to the factory for another crown stud. this is not unheard of in guns that are used a lot. hope the factory still has people that can do this.
 
I had the same problems with my Model 29, an early model. I contacted S & W and they told me to return the gun to the factory. In several conversations with a contact there, he told me they would install an "endurance package" , of which some folks have disputed the existance. This was done on my gun and solved the problem. Took some time, several months, as I was told the machinery was newly installed and was not up to speed.

From what I gather, it had to do with the studs where they were pressed into the frame, they were stepped down with a square shoulder instead of a slight radius, which led to the failure. After I did get my gun back I had no more problems.

Bob Wright
 
Interested to see what they do with a nickel gun. Just curious, how many with this happening do a lot of double action shooting?
 
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I have repaired at least a dozen N frames with this problem, primarily trigger pivots, all are or were rental guns and had severe use with less than optimum maintenance. It is an easy repair.

My take on the cause is a loose fit on the stud in the side plate allowing it to flex ever so little, but enough to induce an eventual failure. I have adapted some spare side plates with a pilot hole to drill out the stud in the frame and replace it with a good grade steel floating pin that fits the side plate hole snuggly.

If you are in Germany, I think you should be able to find a craftsman to do the repair , the jig to hold the frame in the mill is rudimentary and inexpensive to fabricate(half inch bolt and nut and thick piece of aluminum with a hole drilled in it) from shop parts.

any questions to specifics, pm me.
 
I broke the trigger stud on a nickel 29-2. A local gunsmith drilled a blind hole so it didn't show from the outside. He made a pin and the gun works just fine. Any competent gunsmith should be able to do this. Larry
 
I've heard a potential cause is cycling the action with the sideplate off for whatever reason. Not saying you did that, but I can see how that could be a factor.

A buddy had the hammer pin shear on a 686. A local (well known Gunsmith fixed it). Said its a pain. Being stainless, it was easy to dress the outside and buff everything back to normal.
 
I sent a model 66 back to the factory, with the same problem. It was returned in the same condition, no help from them. Boo, hiss!

Wonder why they didn't fix yours, but fixed others?
They not even offer to sell you a similar model at a reduced price?
 

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