Trigger Boss broken

[wlp624]

Hi Bill,
the SN of my 2 model 27 (on broken hammer stud and one broken trigger stud) are as follows: N 638164 (trigger) and N 496525 (hammer). Both are nickel guns. Now you can check if yours is close to mine. I cannot follow the theory that it is because of a heavy rebound spring. I use 13lb Wolff springs for target work. Normally it should not happen. One friend told me that this may me that this could happen because of the chemical pre-treatment of nickeled guns.
Rainer

Thanks Rainer,

Mine is a nickel 27-2 with broken trigger stud, serial no. N636383 so not terribly far from yours. I am not the original owner, but the gun is in flawless condition otherwise, showing little signs of previous firing, and I never fired it but kept it as part of my collection. I called the factory but they said no warranty applied, and the only repair they would do required drilling through the frame to weld in a new stud, which would require replating the frame, and even then the stud would show on the outside. They also said it might take them a year or more due to workload back-up. All that is too much time, expense and trouble, so I'm thinking of just selling it off in parts.

Bill

 

[texagun]

I called the factory but they said no warranty applied, and the only repair they would do required drilling through the frame to weld in a new stud, which would require replating the frame, and even then the stud would show on the outside. They also said it might take them a year or more due to workload back-up. All that is too much time, expense and trouble, so I'm thinking of just selling it off in parts.

Bill

That's a sad ending Bill. Did they give you an estimate for all of that work?

 

[wlp624]

That's a sad ending Bill. Did they give you an estimate for all of that work?

Nah, I was too disheartened to even ask.

 

[monsai52]

I had the same problems with my Model 29, an early model. I contacted S & W and they told me to return the gun to the factory. In several conversations with a contact there, he told me they would install an "endurance package" , of which some folks have disputed the existance. This was done on my gun and solved the problem. Took some time, several months, as I was told the machinery was newly installed and was not up to speed.

From what I gather, it had to do with the studs where they were pressed into the frame, they were stepped down with a square shoulder instead of a slight radius, which led to the failure. After I did get my gun back I had no more problems.

Bob Wright

Sorry to open an older thread, but I just had this happen on an blue 29-2 that I picked up not that long ago.

Bob, a couple of questions; how long ago did the factory do the work, and what did they charge for it?

Best regards,

 

[Tired Gunsmith]

We encountered broken Hammer Studs and Trigger studs as well as rebound slide studs in early "J" frame revolvers.
We made jigs for drilling out for the screw in studs as used in earlier models and used factory original studs. Back in those days all studs were available from the parts department.
When they stopped being available we used the same tooling to drill blind holes and used "floating" studs with a miniscus so that the parts
didn't ride on 'square' shoulders'.
Later guns in all three J,K,N" frame studs came with studs that had the radius.
Hammers were also provided with a radiouson the hammer so as to not have square edges running.

 

[monsai52]

Thanks for the information; that sounds pretty straight forward. Did you use a Loctite type product to secure the new stud in the frame? What did you use for the new stud pin?

Best regards,

 

[gmborkovic]

Heliarc! Heliarc a trigger stud. Enough said.