Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay?

[eqdocrandy]

Anyone Know of a Gunsmith for the Sigma Trigger?

Does anyone know of a Gunsmith who might evaluate a Sigma's
trigger mechanism for potential modification ? I guess I don't want to f*** up my gun. But I would like a lighter pull and possibly a shorter trigger travel. I have been told S&W will not
modify the trigger at all if you send it to them. Or, they will
put it back to the original specs if you send them one that has been modified. Anyone have a name or contact of someone who
will professionally evaluate and modify these guns ???
Thankx for any input.

 

[cbr6864]

Dont know if he still does it or not but everyone use to send their sigma under warranty to this guy, there is no free trigger job. If your sigma trigger is excessively gritty or doesnt break correctly send it on in.

LSG Manufacturing
Ask for Frank Smith
10059 Hwy 1476
Comanche, TX 76442
(325) 885-2700
[email protected]
LSG, Mfg|Gun Parts|Warranty|Gunsmithing

 

[mtngunr]

As to the above question on trigger work, i also had heard about the gent over in TX being a licensed warranty station, and also Smith was honoring complaints about rough triggers by smoothing them somewhat, which sounds like an excellent remedy for those folk who don't wish to do any of the smoothing/polishing operations listed elsewhere.....

I think this thread proves my point .... I simply stated..... But because of that words like obnoxious, snobbishness and ignorance are being thrown around.

No translation needed....i spelled it out for you....the first comment you made about "for some reason" implied lack of reason to several respondents, and now you act as if you are being assaulted while you are as pure as the driven snow and the entire thread is all about quashing your "opinion", insulting you personally, and used my post as an example....oh, puhleeez....

 

[mlk18]

No need to become a drama queen. I get it. You want this to be about me and not about the gun. This is a discussion about opinion versus fact and not something to get so emotional over.

Like I said; everyone is entitled to an opinion, but that does not make it a fact no matter how much you argue about it or how many times you declare it to be true. You can own your opinion and I will own mine. The OP can weigh the merits of both and hopefully seek out many more opinions off forum and from other professional sources before making a decisions.

Hopefully all goes well and he is able to improve on an already very good gun or learn to like it as is.

 

[cbr6864]

I just like to see a video of a someone actually measuring the trigger pull

 

[Zebra365]

Dont know if he still does it or not but everyone use to send their sigma under warranty to this guy, there is no free trigger job. If your sigma trigger is excessively gritty or doesnt break correctly send it on in.

LSG Manufacturing
Ask for Frank Smith
10059 Hwy 1476
Comanche, TX 76442
(325) 885-2700
[email protected]
LSG, Mfg|Gun Parts|Warranty|Gunsmithing

This post is not intended to disparage Mr. Smith. Last year, after owning a SW40VE for a year and being unhappy with the grittiness of the trigger and the heavy pull, I contacted Mr. Smith and made arrangements to have him check my gun.

I had run about 200 rounds through it which, in my experience, usually is an adequate "break-in". The trigger had improved slightly but not adequately.

Well, a copy of my invoice is attached (there was no charge).

As you can see, "GRITTY, HEAVY TRIGGER PULL, TRIGGER SLACK" are cited as my complaint.

The handwriting is faint but reads, "Replace sear housing Test fire 10 rounds."

When I got the gun back, it was more gritty than when I sent it in. I had a new sear to break in. I think Mr. Smith did what a warranty gunsmith can be expected to do.

So I took it in my own hands, took the sear block out, removed the striker, and did the smoothing and polishing which I have described elsewhere.

My point is that, if you pull the trigger and it goes "Bang", then, in my experience, S&W figures it is working.

If you want to smooth out the trigger (and take several pounds off the pull weight) then I suggest you check with a local range for a referral to a private gunsmith and ask if he will do the things that I have described elsewhere. {See post #19 on this thread} You will wind up with all of the original springs intact.

It should not be too expensive and I think you will be pleased with the result. But I would not expect S&W to do this for you as part of the warranty.

BTW, Academy Sports in Dallas advertises the Sigma VE, both 9mm and .40, for $280 today. I keep this gun in the car loaded with Winchester 180gr PDX1 JHPs. I'm not going to put a $1,200 Kimber Custom in the car and have it stolen.

 

[BJH1950]

I know I am late to this discussion. There is one thing though that has been said over and over that just doesn't compute.
--------------
"If you remove or lighten any of the springs in the sear assembly you are still left with the heavy striker spring. If you have 2 springs which are mechanically linked (one is 2lbs the other is 10lbs) and remove or lighten the smaller spring you are still left with the weight of the heavier spring."
---------------------

Your theory is all wrong here. If you have a 10lb spring and add a 2lb spring to it it DOES increase the pull.

it would be like saying I have a 12oz cup with only 10oz coffee in it and add 2oz of coffee. I don't have 10oz of coffee I have 12oz of coffee.

So if I drink 2oz of that 12oz of coffe, I am left with 10oz of coffee.

Springs are work in the same way as gravity in my illustration.

So go have some coffee and take a load off.

 

[wtwolfe]

interested in making my trigger smoother. Probably will not remove spring but how and where do you polish? Bill

 

[EPWrangler]

polish surfaces that mate but dont grind on them.

 

[frankmako]

the trigger is heavy, like the double action on a wheel gun. there are two thing you can do. first you can shoot it a lots and learn the trigger. or, second you can do a trigger clean up and drop in a galloway trigger kit. i got two sigmas and one i did option 1 and the other option 2. both guns are used a range guns for the grandkids. they have many round shot. both have never given me any problems. so if the standard heavy trigger is to heavy for you then do a trigger clean up and the galloway trigger kit.

 

[EPWrangler]

look for surfaces that contact and slide against each other. Like the trigger and sear contact surfaces. spring and strut surfaces.

 

[VonZipper]

Have things SD9VE and am getting use to the stock trigger. I do like the way it feels.

 

[jsolo61654]

Ultradot Matchdot 2 on S&W 41 PC

Hi Guys:
I've just spent some time trying mount a Matchdot 2 on my S&W 41PC.
As you can see from the picture, the rail on the top of the gun does not seem to be long enough to install the mounts on opposite ends of the sight. I was able to get them both on the front of the sight, and it seems to be quite secure. I haven't attempted to sight it in yet, so I don't even know if it will work. Does anybody see any danger to mounting the sight this way.
Ultradot advertises that this sight should work on this gun.

Thanks!

 

[FoghornLeghorn]

Having acquired a SW40VE with probably less than two boxes of shells through it, I too wanted to improve this sidearm.

First, a Meprolight True-Dot Tritium sight set and Talon Grips were installed. Two simple and effective upgrades that I'd suggest to anyone with one of these sidearms. But then came the all-important issue of that post glock lawsuit terrible heavy, rough trigger....this one was @11-12 gritty pounds.

So, following an "online source" (I don't want to break any rules so I'm withholding the vendor name) with a video guide y'all are likely aware of; the sear sides and sear ramp were polished with 600 and then 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper in rubbing alcohol. The store was out of 1000 so I went with 2000 figuring it would render smoother results than 1000. I think it did. The flat ramp on the sear was also carefully polished the same way....those chatter/stamping marks in the sear stamping were completely removed, and the ramp integrity (flatness) was retained. All 3 polished sear surfaces truly looked like a mirror or chromed, when done.

The sear break-point was not touched whatsoever, as advised.(if a spare sear for backup can be found, a gentle cleanup of that surface may be attempted in the future). While the sear assembly was in pieces on the bench, the outer sear spring was upgraded to the same online vendor's offering. All sear assembly parts were cleaned, reassembled, and then the sear ramp & housing cam surface was treated with dry graphite powder as directed. A bit of time was spent working that powder into the sear's polycarbonate housing cam surface just by squeezing the trigger with the slide off (and sear assembly reinstalled) repeatedly, and dusting those contact areas with a bit more graphite... excess graphite was shook out on the bench. Both the OEM pigtail & outer sear spring have been saved and put away in the S&W box.

Results? Very good. What it did NOT do is shorten the overall pull of the trigger at all. But the gains are still very noticeable and well worth the effort and the $16 spent (YES I'm A PAYING CUSTOMER hehe) on the replacement spring, and $13 for sandpaper & dry graphite down at a local store.

Results: there is the welcome decrease in pull weight and overall increase of pull smoothness. This was just recently performed, so it's a new 'thing'.

What it did accomplish:
1. Decrease, I'd say, @5 pounds off the pull give or take a wee bit. This isn't scientific, but the best I can offer. Very acceptable.

2. Drastically smoothed-out the pull. And it's still improving the more I work the trigger. What I ended-up with, is a virtual two-stage military type of trigger pull...there is the obvious takeup, and then you get to the second stage where the feel noticeably changes (firms-up) and you're approaching the break point. Once you continue to squeeze through the second stage takeup, there's a moderate amt of rearward movement in that stage moving towards the breakpoint & you continue to follow-through a bit and then "BREAK". What I'm perceiving is that while you know that you're approaching the BOOM zone in the pull; once you get there, it seems the break is still a surprise when it happens as you continue the squeeze.

I'd love to see a safe, dependable solution to decrease the travel and improve it more, but I don't think it's out there. Apex doesn't seem to offer one (anymore?). This little sidearm will likely never be known as having anything but a utility trigger, but I like it for what it is now as the improvement is substantial, and it seems to be improving the more it get cycled.

Hope this helps someone else with the SW40/9VE model sidearm.

Thanks, "Jeff" for your product and the invaluable videos. Gladly will send others your way.

 

[staylor]

Foghorn: I think I used the same 'online source' to upgrade my SW9VE trigger with similar results. Before I had a quite gritty 12 pound trigger. Afterwards the trigger is much smoother and around 7.75 lbs measured with a gauge. Very happy with the results.

 

[reccpd101]

I own a SD40VE not a 9mm but the trigger is the same. The trigger was not a smooth shooter much rougher than any of my revolvers. I have Apex triggers in many of my revolvers. Why reinvent the wheel? I installed an Apex trigger and noted a lot of improvement. I've never been afraid of improving the trigger. "Judge & jury, I wanted to make sure I did not hit the wrong person."

 

[BC38]

I know I am late to this discussion. There is one thing though that has been said over and over that just doesn't compute.
--------------
"If you remove or lighten any of the springs in the sear assembly you are still left with the heavy striker spring. If you have 2 springs which are mechanically linked (one is 2lbs the other is 10lbs) and remove or lighten the smaller spring you are still left with the weight of the heavier spring."
---------------------

Your theory is all wrong here. If you have a 10lb spring and add a 2lb spring to it it DOES increase the pull.

it would be like saying I have a 12oz cup with only 10oz coffee in it and add 2oz of coffee. I don't have 10oz of coffee I have 12oz of coffee.

So if I drink 2oz of that 12oz of coffe, I am left with 10oz of coffee.

Springs are work in the same way as gravity in my illustration.

So go have some coffee and take a load off.

I know this is a zombie thread, but I wanted to weigh in on this part of the question anyway. Seems to me that it would depend on how the springs are arranged in relation to each other.

If they are stacked end to end then the weaker one will fully compress first with only 2 lbs pressure then you will proceed to compress the stronger one and that will take 10 lbs pressure.

HOWEVER, if they are one-inside-the-other, or being compressed side-by-side (or a comparable arrangement) so that you are compressing both at the same time, then their compression weights add together to require 12 lbs force to compress both at once.

 

[FoghornLeghorn]

I own a SD40VE not a 9mm but the trigger is the same. The trigger was not a smooth shooter much rougher than any of my revolvers. I have Apex triggers in many of my revolvers. Why reinvent the wheel? I installed an Apex trigger and noted a lot of improvement. I've never been afraid of improving the trigger. "Judge & jury, I wanted to make sure I did not hit the wrong person."

Ok, so I gather you are running the Apex replacements. My .40 is the SW40VE (before the SD & M&P series, and after the original Sigmas). So I need to find something to fit it, if available. At one time Apex did offer something that had to be fitted to the particular SWVE frames whether the .40 or 9mm. I'll email Apex to see if they still have it, if it will mitigate some of this football-field pull length. Thanks!

 

[Ruger Nut]

Ok, so I gather you are running the Apex replacements. My .40 is the SW40VE (before the SD & M&P series, and after the original Sigmas). So I need to find something to fit it, if available. At one time Apex did offer something that had to be fitted to the particular SWVE frames whether the .40 or 9mm. I'll email Apex to see if they still have it, if it will mitigate some of this football-field pull length. Thanks!

I own an SD9 with the Galloway Boudica trigger and Wesbaun spring kit. I originally had an APEX spring kit in it but found the Wesbaun spring kit to be 10X better.
Here are links to the Boudica trigger and Wesbaun spring kit for your SW40VE;
Boudica Short Stroke Trigger for Smith & Wesson SD VE and Sigma VE Pistols > Galloway Precision

Sigma Series Trigger Spring Kit for
Smith & Wesson SW9VE SW40VE C F VE 107-021 - Wesbaun Gun Springs

 

[Muss Muggins]

I'ma guess he's either got it fixed or he hasn't. Been nine years . . .