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rainman1977
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RTFM...Love it!
Trigger Job - 686?
- Thread starter rainman1977
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Newer revolvers without the firing pin on the hammer seemingly cannot use this method. The hammer is a lever arm and the weights given are for that particular distance from the fulcrum. Any thoughts?
Do not do ANY trigger work unless you have a trigger pull gauge! Know what you start with, know what end results you want, and reassemble the gun often for a test! DA pull starts with compressing the trigger rebound slide spring and advances into forcing the main spring back until the sear point is reached releasing the hammer! In SA the trigger rebound slide spring is totally compressed, the main spring is in full tension, and your finger is pulling against the SA sear which is held by the main spring. Changing the trigger rebound slide spring is the first step in reducing the DA trigger pull!
jcelect
jcelect
Approximate using the factory method and then fine tune to your gun, your hold, your ammunition with sufficient test firing to prove your adjustments. Pretty much the definition of "Tuning".
Stu
pistolpete10
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The springs S&W uses now days seem to vary from one gun to another. Some times a lot. I have 2 642 revolvers, the first has the lock and the trigger on it is about right, didn't change anything. The 2nd is a new one but without the lock. Pull on it was almost impossible, bought a Wolff STANDARD weight spring for it, now it's the same as the first one. The J frames use a coil mainspring. I find the same with the leaf springs, some are fine some are extra heavy, the rebound springs are also too heavy some times. I've also found that some are well oiled from the factory some are dry. I don't know why the great variations in factory parts, lack of QC I guess.
Gearhead Jim
Member
I have a recent production "Classic" 19-9.
The DA pull is horrendous, several pounds heavier than stock K-frames made years ago but only slightly rougher. SA is also heavy, about twice what a K-frame is normally.
Dry firing and polishing would doubtless make them smoother and a bit lighter, but there's no way in h*** that DA would become reasonable without lighter springs. I put the Wolf 15 lb rebound spring and that helped. Wolf Power hammer spring went in and got light strikes with some ammo, went to a longer strain screw. Now it's reliable with any ammo and both the DA/SA pulls are much lighter. Not as light as my factory-tuned 66-6, but worlds better than stock.
The DA pull is horrendous, several pounds heavier than stock K-frames made years ago but only slightly rougher. SA is also heavy, about twice what a K-frame is normally.
Dry firing and polishing would doubtless make them smoother and a bit lighter, but there's no way in h*** that DA would become reasonable without lighter springs. I put the Wolf 15 lb rebound spring and that helped. Wolf Power hammer spring went in and got light strikes with some ammo, went to a longer strain screw. Now it's reliable with any ammo and both the DA/SA pulls are much lighter. Not as light as my factory-tuned 66-6, but worlds better than stock.
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armorer951 answered this question in another thread on the same subject. Link is to reply:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/141007118-post8.html
I bought a Wolff Spring Kit for my 686+ and have never looked back. The trigger went from heavy to "like butter" in minutes. I think it cost me $9 plus postage. Great result.
So 2 things I've always kept in mind about S&W triggers. First is that the Performance Center has - in the past - marketed services for customers which included trigger tuning for standard market revolvers and pistols. I never used them since I have a very good S&W trained gun smith. Can anyone tell us if this is still available? Also, any good gun smith will re-work your trigger pull to your desired weight with or without springs, depending on your requirements and ammo. It's always a good thing to have a relationship with one in your area.
I have changed the springs on my 686. I went with a Wolff spring kit and had fantastic results. I used this gun for shooting in police bullseye matches and did very well with it. My best was a 99 (slow fire) with 7x.
I would agree that stoning the friction points would be very effective and should be considered first. If you need the action even lighter as in a target gun, then springs next.
Jay
I would agree that stoning the friction points would be very effective and should be considered first. If you need the action even lighter as in a target gun, then springs next.
Jay
S&W's Performance Center still lists those services; whether or not they're offered under the current reduced work capacity most businesses are experiencing isn't clear without a phone call. Kind of a "hidden" page on their site, under the FAQs, which may or may not speak to how much tuning business they really want.
Performance Center(R) Precision Gunsmithing | Smith & Wesson
I have an example of the Combat Revolver Package -- which includes the same action tuning as the Master Revolver Action Package -- performed within the last few years. It's a fine trigger. What's unclear from close inspection is how much the lockwork was trued and smoothed versus how much the "action job" simply relies on the use of a Wolff mainspring.
I suspect the Performance Center leans heavily on that spring to effect the "tune".
Far as I know, there's no requesting specific trigger weight or nuance, you get the one type of action job they offer; for more than that you need your own qualified revolversmith you can talk to.
