Trigger play spring replacement

[der Buschmeistermann]

I have to do it for my 4566. I understand the basic procedure, I just was hoping that someone could tell me the best procedure for seating the rivet. What should I rest the top of the rivet on - a vice?. What should I use to "deform" (for lack of better words) the bottom of the rivet to tighten it - a flat punch? Will I need to adjust the spring or does it usually do its job from the start? Any other tips you can offer? Thanks.

 

[der Buschmeistermann]

I have to do it for my 4566. I understand the basic procedure, I just was hoping that someone could tell me the best procedure for seating the rivet. What should I rest the top of the rivet on - a vice?. What should I use to "deform" (for lack of better words) the bottom of the rivet to tighten it - a flat punch? Will I need to adjust the spring or does it usually do its job from the start? Any other tips you can offer? Thanks.

 

[S&W revolverman]

der Buschmeistermann,

I believe you have answered your own questions. As you described, that is how I replace the trigger play spring.
With a new one, no adjustment is usually needed.

Hope this helps
chris

 

[der Buschmeistermann]

Thanks, Chris!

 

[SW CQB 45]

i use an old file tightened in a vise with a safe edge high enough to keep from deforming the trigger bar when you start to TAP on the soft rivet (no 5lb sledge)

sometimes a piece of clear tape is used to hold the rivet in place as it likes to fall out when you turn it over.

there rest you have down.

 

[der Buschmeistermann]

Originally posted by SW CQB 45:
i use an old file tightened in a vise with a safe edge high enough to keep from deforming the trigger bar when you start to TAP on the soft rivet (no 5lb sledge)

sometimes a piece of clear tape is used to hold the rivet in place as it likes to fall out when you turn it over.

there rest you have down.

Thank you. Then the rivet is not that hard to deform. I took apart my 5906 and saw a dent in the middle of its rivet. Am I better off using a pointed punch or a flat punch? And would a small ball peen be better than a standard carpenter's hammer? I really appreciate the help.

 

[SW CQB 45]

if I remember correctly and I have not done one in a while.

I used a small ball peen as the punch and tapped it with a small hammer.

CORRECTION: I thought about the above and I said it wrong. I used a small ball peen (the round end){no punch} to swage over the rivet. just lightly tap the exposed rivet.

 

[PPCSHOOTER]

I USE A ROLL PIN PUNCH TO PEEN THE RIVET. THE TAPE AN FILE METHOD IS VERY EASY. SOMETIMES YOU MUST PUSH THE TOP LEGS FORWARD TO GET GOOD CONTACT.

 

[Fastbolt]

Obviously, this shouldn't be done by anyone not trained and experienced in doing it.

The pin punch used to knock out the old rivet must be narrow enough to fit in the drawbar's rivet hole as it drives out the old rivet.

I use a 2 oz ball peen hammer to flatten the rivets, making sure the drawbar remains firmly positioned on the safety side of the file edge so the spring is properly tightened against the drawbar. It also helps to make sure enough of the file is above the vise jaws so the drawbar clears the top of the vise.

The safety edge of the file is just being used as a working surface.

 

[der Buschmeistermann]

Thanks, everyone.
I'm good to go on this.
Now all I have to do is wait for the Brownell's envelope to arrive in the mail.

 

[Fastbolt]

Did you get the email I sent to the one listed in your profile? I included the rest of the pictures.

 

[der Buschmeistermann]

Originally posted by Fastbolt:
Did you get the email I sent to the one listed in your profile? I included the rest of the pictures.

No, sir. I did not. I even checked my spam folder. Would you mind giving it another try?
I really appreciate you doing that.

 

[Fastbolt]

I tried it again.

 

[der Buschmeistermann]

Originally posted by Fastbolt:
I tried it again.

I got it that time. Thank you!

 

[Fastbolt]

De nada.