Trigger stop question

[Nraman]

I have a 686-3 with the slot in the frame and the little plate that acts as a trigger stop.
I understand that this type was found to be prone to loosen up and prevent firing of the revolver.
I am also aware that there is another style of trigger stop, the rod in the rebound spring. I bought a rod and planned to install it. I am told that S&W gave up on that due to the possibility of dirt on the rod preventing firing of the weapon.
So, what is the current type of trigger stop used on the new revolvers. Can I use it in mine?
Is there an aftermarket trigger with an adjusting screw available?
What are my options, I have too much overtravel and I need to do something.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Here is the exact model pictured. It's one of the best 686 guns on the market. I don't see you ever having a problem with this stop. Some overtravel is not a bad thing. Without overtravel the gun may not fire.

 

[Nraman]

Here is the exact model pictured. It's one of the best 686 guns on the market. I don't see you ever having a problem with this stop. Some overtravel is not a bad thing. Without overtravel the gun may not fire.

The gun is not used for defense just target.
I can try the existing trigger stop and locktite the screw.
I was wondering, what is the latest method S&W uses for overtravel?
Thanks.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

It's built in, made into the rebound block. A simple way to control the overtravel is to drop a rod inside the rebound block (fits inside the spring). This when cut to the proper length will limit the trigger pull. N frames run this set-up. On most combat guns, it's removed because of a chance it messes up when you need it the most.
Make up a drill rod. One end is ground flat, this end rest against the rebound stud. The other end is shaped to a point, it will fit the insides and will self-center.

 

[Nraman]

It's built in, made into the rebound block. A simple way to control the overtravel is to drop a rod inside the rebound block (fits inside the spring). This when cut to the proper length will limit the trigger pull. N frames run this set-up. On most combat guns, it's removed because of a chance it messes up when you need it the most.
Make up a drill rod. One end is ground flat, this end rest against the rebound stud. The other end is shaped to a point, it will fit the insides and will self-center.

If this is the latest, then that's what I'll do.
Thanks.

 

[tomcatt51]

If this is the latest, then that's what I'll do.

Latest isn't bestest. The rod inside the rebound spring is cheaper to make not better. I'd keep the stock stop and loctite (use blue or purple) the screw.

 

[Nraman]

Latest isn't bestest. The rod inside the rebound spring is cheaper to make not better. I'd keep the stock stop and loctite (use blue or purple) the screw.

You make a good point.
It will take me another day or two before I get to do anything, in the mean time, not been knowledgeable enough, I am gathering information and ideas.
The problem with my current stop is supposed to be that it can loosen up and block the trigger when it is needed, otherwise it is supposed to be OK.
I haven't had the chance to play with it, from what I've seen its a cam that rotates behind the trigger. It seems to me that if I rotate the cam to the maximum possible point and then file it to the point where it works, even if the screw gets loose, it can not possibly interfere with proper operation.
Does this make sense?

 

[Nraman]

I finally got the screw driver tip I was waiting for and adjusted the stop. I moved the cam to the most extreme position and I found out that it is a bit short. It improved the overtravel a lot, I would have liked just a little bit more. In any case, it is too short to interfere with trigger operation no matter what. I need to do some shooting now.

 

[Nraman]

I finally got the screw driver tip I was waiting for and adjusted the stop. I moved the cam to the most extreme position and I found out that it is a bit short. It improved the overtravel a lot, I would have liked just a little bit more. In any case, it is too short to interfere with trigger operation no matter what. I need to do some shooting now.

I couldn't help myself. I removed the cam and installed a trigger stop rod in the slide. At .701 rod length the hammer would fall with no movement of the trigger. I went to .700, there is a tiny movement on the trigger and feels great. This is not a self defense gun, just a range gun. I also replaced the slide spring with a 13# Wolfe and lightly polished with a piece of stone the area in the frame where the slide rubs. I also replaced the hammer spring with a Wolfe full power.
It feels like a different gun.