ezb57
Member
OK, dumb question time. What and where is the trigger stop I see mentioned concerning some models? I am familiar with those on shotguns but I don't see anything similar on Smiths. Is it internal? Thanks in advance
Trigger Stop
- Thread starter ezb57
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On the Smiths I am familiar with it is a rod inserted into the trigger return spring, inside the mechanism. Of course people have been known to add one externally, often to the back of the trigger.
Protocall_Design
Member
On some older models there is one on the upper rear area of the trigger guard.
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The rod inserted in the rebound spring is how they did it on N Frames. K Frames used the small part type that was installed with a single screw. Many LE agency’s had their armorers remove them from officer’s M15s in fear of them inadvertently coming loose and causing a jam.
Some of my revolvers have trigger stops and some do not. I’ve not had any come loose and since I don’t carry revolvers anymore I’ve opted to leave them in place. When actual shooting revolvers I don’t notice or care much if they are installed or not and makes no real difference to me.
Tex1001
Member
I have a couple of Smiths (Model 19 comes to mind) that have
these. I removed them.
They have a tendency to creep and block the trigger.
M15's for LE???
I'm not at all familiar with any LE Agencies issuing M15's as a duty weapon. The common issue was either the M10 or M19. For more firepower some were issued the N Frame M28.
The M15 cylinder was purposely made TO NOT be able to load .357 cartridges which, although more powerful, wore out 'shooting guns' (as opposed to 'holster guns; fired once or twice for duty qualification.)
In addition, M15's were considered a 'target' gun- as they only shot .38 Spls, thus not eroding the first inch or two of the barrel throat-making a sloppier exit for a projectile...and also avoided a more rapid 'flame-cutting of the frame directly on top of the barrel/under the top strap. You can frequently see flame erosion on a well shot centerfire Smith if you open the cylinder and look directly above the approx. 3/16" of barrel length that mates to the cylinder's chambers when firing.
I'm not at all familiar with any LE Agencies issuing M15's as a duty weapon. The common issue was either the M10 or M19. For more firepower some were issued the N Frame M28.
The M15 cylinder was purposely made TO NOT be able to load .357 cartridges which, although more powerful, wore out 'shooting guns' (as opposed to 'holster guns; fired once or twice for duty qualification.)
In addition, M15's were considered a 'target' gun- as they only shot .38 Spls, thus not eroding the first inch or two of the barrel throat-making a sloppier exit for a projectile...and also avoided a more rapid 'flame-cutting of the frame directly on top of the barrel/under the top strap. You can frequently see flame erosion on a well shot centerfire Smith if you open the cylinder and look directly above the approx. 3/16" of barrel length that mates to the cylinder's chambers when firing.
I have trigger stops on a few SW revolvers and actually prefer them. It provides a more positive feel to the squeeze and reset. None of my carried SD revolvers have a trigger stop, but I've never had one come loose.
M15
An agency I worked for in the 1970's issued the model 15. The issue ammo was Remington 125 gr JHP "rosebuds". I don't remember if that was a plus=p back then. The model 15's were replaced by the model 66 when it came along.
A personally owned model 19 4" of mine had the trigger stop work loose at the range and tied up the action. Since removed.
An agency I worked for in the 1970's issued the model 15. The issue ammo was Remington 125 gr JHP "rosebuds". I don't remember if that was a plus=p back then. The model 15's were replaced by the model 66 when it came along.
A personally owned model 19 4" of mine had the trigger stop work loose at the range and tied up the action. Since removed.
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-BTM-
Member
Air Force security police and SAC guards used the model 15. I read somewhere that the FBI requested the tapered barrel and Baughman ramp front sight. I think the LAPD converted theirs to DAO.
Everyone I can recall who carried a K Frame had the trigger stop removed. It can't come loose, which occasionally happened, if it's not there.
The rod stop in the rebound spring is ythe way to goit must be set for single action NOT double action.if set properly it will make the single action feel like a COLT python trigger. It takes time and patience [trial&error]
until it is set correctly,.sometimes just a stroke of a stone when yuo are close.the trigger WILL stop as the single action sear& trigger break,this is what you are trying to accomplish.DONOT set the stop to work on double action as it will bind the trigger to the sear in single action.On some of the pre ww2 guns they came from the factory fitted so that a stop was not needed no over traver could be felt it was just the way the parts fitted together..Another thing is the pin should have a domed on 1 snd this end goes into the rebound spring FIRST if reversed it will not allow the hammer to be released from the hammER SEAR IF YOUY OWN A python CHECK THE OVER TRAVEL OF THE TRIGGER>>because their is none. Try IT IT does not
make any modifications to the gun that cant be changed back
ONE thing i must add to this***NEVER PULL THE TRIGGER WITH THE SIDE PLATE OFF .The
pin in the rebound spring will bottom out against the pin that i acts as a guide fir the rebound slide and bend or brake it off
s the guide for the rebound slide
until it is set correctly,.sometimes just a stroke of a stone when yuo are close.the trigger WILL stop as the single action sear& trigger break,this is what you are trying to accomplish.DONOT set the stop to work on double action as it will bind the trigger to the sear in single action.On some of the pre ww2 guns they came from the factory fitted so that a stop was not needed no over traver could be felt it was just the way the parts fitted together..Another thing is the pin should have a domed on 1 snd this end goes into the rebound spring FIRST if reversed it will not allow the hammer to be released from the hammER SEAR IF YOUY OWN A python CHECK THE OVER TRAVEL OF THE TRIGGER>>because their is none. Try IT IT does not
make any modifications to the gun that cant be changed back
ONE thing i must add to this***NEVER PULL THE TRIGGER WITH THE SIDE PLATE OFF .The
pin in the rebound spring will bottom out against the pin that i acts as a guide fir the rebound slide and bend or brake it off
s the guide for the rebound slide
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