Backlighting
Member
I have a 638 that I would like to have the double action trigger pull lightened and smooth out some.
What's involved and the approx. cost?
Thanks in advance.
What's involved and the approx. cost?
Thanks in advance.
Trigger work
- Thread starter Backlighting
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The dry firing will do quite a bit, plus can make some stuff show up.
I am not a trained S&W smith, but here is the basic job. Check for end shake and timing first. If those are good, remove side plate, look at side plate and showing side of, hammer, trigger and trigger return slide. Any shiny spots on those are probably coming from hish spots on side plate. Use small die makers stones to polish high spots and the "buching" area where hammer and trigger studs go. Not trying to take anything down except any little burrs, mostly just a little polish. Remove trigger return slide, trigger and hammer, Do the same thing to inside of frame. Be sure to check bottom of slide and where it rides on frame. Install 13# tension Wolf trigger return spring on re assembly. If the side of the hammer or trigger has been dragging on the frame (arc mark on side of hammer or trigger stick a hammer stud shim on the drag side. Reassemble with factory main spring, But leave tension screw 3 complet turns lose. Have a bunch of CCI primed cases, NO BULLET NO POWDER. Fill up the chambers with these pieces of brass. Pull dbl action trigger. Doesn't fire? turn screw in 1/2 turn, and try again, doesn't fire? another 1/2 turn. Once it fires. First the trigger might get bad because the primer may back out some and having no recoil to slam it against recoil shield it will drag. Open cylinder and fill with fresh primed cases. Does it fire on every chamber (keep removing fired cases that drag. You can avoid this primer dragging by drilling out the flash hole in primer pockets to about dbl their normal size, but make sure they NEVER get used for live rounds. Anyway get it so it fires every primer ever time. Now tighten it up being careful to count turns 1/2 turns, 1/4 turns. Remove screw and carefully measure with good calipers. Shorten by .0078 for every 1/4 turn. Say 1 3/4 turns + 7 1/4 turns so .0054 needs removed. But always leave a little long. slightly round tip as you do this. Reinstall tighten and go shoot it. PS Smooth and reliable beats light and not reliable.
Years ago in the seach for the perfect trigger I took a model 28 and put a dap of fine polishing compound on studs, pivot points, sear surfaces etc and the dry fired it a bunch and then cleaned everything back up real well. I couldn't notice much improvement.
I am not a trained S&W smith, but here is the basic job. Check for end shake and timing first. If those are good, remove side plate, look at side plate and showing side of, hammer, trigger and trigger return slide. Any shiny spots on those are probably coming from hish spots on side plate. Use small die makers stones to polish high spots and the "buching" area where hammer and trigger studs go. Not trying to take anything down except any little burrs, mostly just a little polish. Remove trigger return slide, trigger and hammer, Do the same thing to inside of frame. Be sure to check bottom of slide and where it rides on frame. Install 13# tension Wolf trigger return spring on re assembly. If the side of the hammer or trigger has been dragging on the frame (arc mark on side of hammer or trigger stick a hammer stud shim on the drag side. Reassemble with factory main spring, But leave tension screw 3 complet turns lose. Have a bunch of CCI primed cases, NO BULLET NO POWDER. Fill up the chambers with these pieces of brass. Pull dbl action trigger. Doesn't fire? turn screw in 1/2 turn, and try again, doesn't fire? another 1/2 turn. Once it fires. First the trigger might get bad because the primer may back out some and having no recoil to slam it against recoil shield it will drag. Open cylinder and fill with fresh primed cases. Does it fire on every chamber (keep removing fired cases that drag. You can avoid this primer dragging by drilling out the flash hole in primer pockets to about dbl their normal size, but make sure they NEVER get used for live rounds. Anyway get it so it fires every primer ever time. Now tighten it up being careful to count turns 1/2 turns, 1/4 turns. Remove screw and carefully measure with good calipers. Shorten by .0078 for every 1/4 turn. Say 1 3/4 turns + 7 1/4 turns so .0054 needs removed. But always leave a little long. slightly round tip as you do this. Reinstall tighten and go shoot it. PS Smooth and reliable beats light and not reliable.
Years ago in the seach for the perfect trigger I took a model 28 and put a dap of fine polishing compound on studs, pivot points, sear surfaces etc and the dry fired it a bunch and then cleaned everything back up real well. I couldn't notice much improvement.
Bill In Texas
Member
About $25 for an Apex Spring Kit! 
OP
Backlighting
Member
About $25 for an Apex Spring Kit!
Do I need a gunsmith to install it?
ContinentalOp
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That depends on how comfortable you are with disassembling your revolver. One thing that should be noted is that the Apex kit is only for J-frames with frame-mounted firing pins so you should check on that before ordering.
For a defensive gun, I prefer a stock trigger. However, I would consider a trigger job acceptable if it's done by a good gunsmith who smooths the trigger but retains the stock springs to ensure reliability and stays within factory specs. The improved smoothness is more important than the weight, generally speaking (i.e., a shooter with joint/hand-strength issues may need a lighter pull to shoot acceptably-well). The least expensive trigger job I've seen is around $80. Costs may vary depending on location and whether or not you need to ship the gun to a competent smith.
gwpercle
Member
Clark Custom Guns , a local shop around here , does S&W Target Action Job for $145.00 and a Service Action Job for $115.00.
They know how to do it . I have only one with a Target Action Job , it puts a smile on my face and a song in my heart every time I shoot it !
The work was worth every penny. I have done "trigger jobs" on several guns , double action , single action and semi-auto....they turned out OK , but just OK....Clark does magic to a gun, it's just amazing !
Gary
They know how to do it . I have only one with a Target Action Job , it puts a smile on my face and a song in my heart every time I shoot it !
The work was worth every penny. I have done "trigger jobs" on several guns , double action , single action and semi-auto....they turned out OK , but just OK....Clark does magic to a gun, it's just amazing !
Gary
Bill In Texas
Member
I had never worked on a revolver before I put an Apex Spring Kit in my Model 60. Apex tutorial videos are on their website and on YouTube. They are excellent.
You just have to take your time with it, I think it took me a couple of hours, but I also did some polishing along the way, which was also pointed out the video.
I would also suggest the you get a large, clear, plastic bag to remove some of the springs in, so if they get away from you they can be easily found. Hope this helps!
P.S. The difference in the trigger pull is amazing and I've had no reliability problems.
