Triple Lock Target Advice/Opinions?

[rjb1]

I have a chance to buy a .44 Triple Lock and would like the opinion and advice from the experts here.
As the old cliche goes, there is good news and (very) bad news:
Good news:
.44 Triple Lock Target (factory)
three-digit serial number (6xx)
good mechanical condition
(Very) Bad news: Nickle plated - non-factory - good, not great, job
non-proper grips (late Magnas)

Price is $1200 OTD
Open to suggestions as to getting it or not.
Thanks...
(no pictures available)

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

Barrel length? Letters as a factory target in Nickel?

 

[rct269]

Well, as long as it's just a suggestion---------------------

DON'T BUY JUNK!! Junk depreciates----good stuff appreciates-----really good stuff appreciates more. And if you're one of the many who says they don't care about appreciation, and one of the few who's telling the truth, then be my guest----pour your money down a rat hole.

Save up----buy something worthwhile----buy something you're proud to own and will be proud to own twenty years from now-----or that your young'uns will be proud to own twenty years from now-----whichever comes first.

Ralph Tremaine

I bought my one and only Triplelock target fifteen years ago. I paid $5,250------the most I had ever paid for any one gun. (That was the scary part!) Scary part or not, once I laid eyes on it it took me about ten seconds to make the decision. The seller had described it as follows: "Ralph, this is the best one we've ever seen!!" The seller called about six months ago. They wanted dibbies on it when the time came to sell it. I guess they haven't found a better one. You reckon the seller of "your" gun is going to want dibbies on it when the time comes to sell it?

 

[Hondo44]

The 1st thing of importance to confirm is whether or not it's a factory target model. It should be a pre war old style sight with one elevation screw. The most conclusive proof of originality is to confirm the serial # stamped on the underside of the rear sight matches the serial # on the gun butt. Of course, the front screw on the rear sight tang must be removed to remove the sight for checking.

I presume you believe it's non-factory nickel because there are Bs before the barrel serial # in the front of the shroud, rear surface of yoke arm, by itself on the rear of cyl behind the extractor star, and by itself on right side grip frame on commercial TL guns.

An original target TL factory sights look like this:

 

[Hondo44]

TLs are expensive and original targets are very expensive. Not everyone can afford a real nice target. So a less desirable example for the right price may be a reasonable compromise for some to be able to own one, that are not hard core collectors. There's a market for all grades of guns for a commensurate price. They will have resale value if bought right and one doesn't have to lose money if there's a chance in the future to upgrade it.

An incorrect re-finish can be properly re-done for a little more investment. So if the nickel finish is the only thing wrong, a $1200 is not out of line if you like the gun or the gun's potential. But an imperfect example's value is in the eye of the beholder.

Hope this helps put it in perspective,

 

[rjb1]

Thanks to all for the comments.
With the long wait for letters, I'll have to go with what can be seen or logically inferred from what is there in front of me.
It's a pawn shop situation, so I can't take it apart and check numbers, letters, etc.

I think it's non-factory nickle because it just isn't up to S&W quality. (I have several other original nickle plated S&W's that look noticeably better.) I should have looked for the "B" in the shroud but did not. I was so surprised to see it there that I don't think my wits were fully with me.
Concerning the rear sight's originality, I'm a mechanical engineer who teaches manufacturing processes, so I think the sights (especially rear) are factory-done based on the quality of the machine work. No bubba/hacksaw action here. It could be a *really* good gunsmith, however, so I concede that there is a chance that it may not be "factory" (pending a numbers check).
However, to the best of my recollection the sights do look like the ones pictured above.

I understand the comments on investment/appreciation.
However, since I'm old enough that everything I have is paid for and I have no kids, anything I leave to my nephew (who has a good job and doesn't need the money) will be a "bonus" when I kick the bucket.

Also, I tend to buy guns based on their historical/technical aspects as opposed to pure "condition" considerations.
I think the experts' consensus so far is that the decision to buy or not is marginal. I would not be crazy either way.
(I may be swayed by the fact that when I got home and checked the mail I had a $500 check from a local utility, re-paying me for a mistaken over-payment by their automatic payment system.)
I'll sleep on it, but right now I think I'll go back tomorrow and have a second look and if I don't see anything about it that looks any worse than what I have already seen, I will likely get it.
Thanks again!

 

[mojave30cal]

Don't forget to post pictures!

 

[Hondo44]

If the hammer and trigger are nickel plated, it's definitely not a factory nickel plate. Look under the left grip for a factory rework date stamped on left side of grip frame near the toe.

 

[raljr1]

I sometimes find myself in the same situation. Certain models command a higher price than I am comfortable paying, so I find one in less than collector condition and am usually glad to have it. I'd say to follow your gut, worst case you trade it up in a couple years.

 

[The Gila Bender]

Here's my $1,200.00 Triplelock, a .455, #12742, circa 1913, with a pretty decent aftermarket nickel refinish. It came with fair condition unmarked gold medallion stocks, I put the Grashorns on later. Good enough for a starter TL, in my opinion. It is not lettered but the serial number is the range of those shipped to Shapleigh Hardware, St. Louis, December 29, 1917.
[URL=http://s295.photobucket.com/user/TheGilaBender/media/SW%2044%20HE%201st%20Model%20Military%2013283/1stModelNewCenturyTriplelock455MarkII12742_A.jpg.html] [/URL]

And here is my other TL, a Target Model, #7133, factory refinished but no date stamp. It has a B inside a diamond on the grip frame and a star on the butt. The sights are modified and the original trigger has been replaced with a grooved trigger. It's a nice piece to study and enjoy. it is not lettered. Cost was just about half what an original finish unmodified example was going for when I bought it.
[URL=http://s295.photobucket.com/user/TheGilaBender/media/SW%2044%20HE%201st%20Model%20Target/NewCentury44Target.jpg.html] [/URL]

Are these collectible? Not in the strictest sense as they are not original condition, but they are certainly 'nice' examples, and they aren't junk. They found me when both interest and means were in alignment. They fit nicely into my modest collection of N frames (ranging from highly collectible originals to time-worn shooters and restorations) and I can handle and even shoot them without diminishing value. And, it would take a very long time for me to save enough money for a collectible original condition TL and probably just as long to find one for sale.

 

[Nightowl]

In 2002, I passed up a factory reblued triple lock four inch for $400. It had virtually been unfired since its reblue in the 1930s. (as represented, I did not know enough about these at the time) I'm still kicking myself for that one!