Tru-oil or Tung Oil?

[C Broad Arrow]

As some might recognize, I have been refinisihng the grips on my Model 28. I am down to the final strokes in terms of whether to use Tru-Oil or Tung Oil.

Tru-oil is lindseed based product with other natural oils added.

Tung Oil is, well, tung-oil, and if you get the right stuff unadulterated with laquers etc.

If you have to choose which one would you use to refinish your grips?

 

[992B]

I have always used Tru Oil for refinishing grips and like the way it works and looks. You can put it on with your fingers and when it dries hit it with 0000 steel wool between coats and apply another coat. Usually, 3 or 4 coats will do nicely. I cover the checkering before sanding with masking tape and when the smooth parts have been covered and finished I remove the masking tape from the checkering and put only one coat on the checkering and brush it in with a clean toothbrush.

 

[C Broad Arrow]

OK.. good feedback. I spoke to other guys I know on the phone today and they all vote for Tru-oil as well. Tung oil does not always dry well was the feedback I got.

 

[zoom6zoom]

Read the cans carefully. Much of what is sold as Tung oil is actually a blend.

 

[arjay]

Pure tung oil can take a lifetime to dry.Thats the reason for the blends.Ive used them in the past with good results and Ive used tru oil with good results too.Anymore I go with an oil based stain followed by several coats of wax.Simple and fast.

 

[tomcatt51]

Don't mean to drift the thread but I prefer MINWAX Antique Oil Finish.

 

[arjay]

Pure tung oil can take a lifetime to dry.Thats the reason for the blends.Ive used them in the past with good results and Ive used tru oil with good results too.Anymore I go with an oil based stain followed by several coats of wax.Simple and fast.

The rifle on top has a tung oil finish I did about 25 years ago.The bottom one was tru oil.

These grips were done with an oil based stain with a coat of renwax at the end .Much faster and easier.

 

[C Broad Arrow]

Which of all these finishes do you like the most?

 

[arjay]

I really liked working with the tung oil,but it was a long process over several days.The finish on the n frame grips looks much the same in person.I'd say the tung oil has more depth to it,but it could be that the rifle just has a better piece of wood.Those old time finishes are nice,but they take a lot of labor and patience.That pair of grips took maybe 2 or 3 hours from when I dropped them in the mineral spirits,Scrubbed them with an old tooth brush,sanded with 350 grit and did 2 coats of stain.I was a little surprised at how they came out really as a few more coats would have been better.
Edit: The rifle was done so long ago that I don't remember what brand I used,but I'm sure it was a tung oil blend.
The grips were done with minwax stain I think the color was gunstock.

 

[brucev]

I've been fooling around refinishing rifle stocks since I blundered over some articles by Jim Carmichael in Outdoor Life. For about that long (since 1982), I've been using TruOil. It's is a very good product. If one desires, it will produce a very high shine. If one desires a satin finish, that can be done with a little rubbing using 0000 steel wool. I doubt that it is waterproof. Few hobbyist finishes would rate as waterproof. However it is about as water resistant as one can expect. It will do at least a decent job of sealing end-grain and surfaces in general. As might be expected, it works very well on handgun grips. Brushed into the checkering, etc. it leaves a hard finish that stands up well to normal wear and tear.

Tung Oil is what USGI rifle stock were finished in at Springfield Armory. The stocks were simply dipped in the Tung Oil and allowed to air dry. Boiled Linseed Oil was supplied for maintenance of the stocks as issued for use. At the start of WWII it became difficult to obtain the Tung nuts from which to process the oil, so the armories switched to using only BLO. Tung oil has given me good results on rifle stocks. Applied in thin coats rubbed in by hand tung oil has produced a beautiful finish that is moderately water resistant. It is not however a finish suitable for hard use or inclement weather. It will doubtless give a good looking finish to handgun grips. I would not think it would do well for heavy use or hard wear.

For rifle stocks or handgun grips that I will be using hard and that may very well be exposed to rain, etc., I prefer Birchwood Casey TruOil. I seal the inside of the rifle stock w/ clear epoxy which is just about perfectly waterproof. I finish the stock w/ TruOil. For wood that will mostly see display, I like Tung Oil.

And... from time to time, when the moon is non-existant and the dog is asleep... I've been known to pull one of my Springfield 1903's from the gun cabinet and give it a rub of Gunny Paste. Ah... wonderful stuff! Just mix equal parts of Turpentine, Bees wax and Boiled Linseed Oil (1/3, 1/3, 1/3) to make it. Then... rub it on and buff with a soft cloth. Oh my... wonderful stuff! Even my wife likes it! Totally useless as a weather resistant finish... but warm and beautiful to behold! Try it. You might just like it!

 

[arjay]

None of these finishes stand up to bad weather and abuse like the modern poly stuff,but they are so much prettier and don't have that plastic feel
And they really are easy to refresh!

 

[POPPER]

I may stir up spmething here but I hope not. I have used and still do Old English Oil. I have used it on three unfinished Ahrends walnut grips for my two 28-2s' and my 686 with great results. I initionally use a generous ammount of the oil and let the grips sit overnight then use 0000 steel wool lightly to the grips and redo them again till I get the finish I like. Lastly I takr the Johnsons wax to them and I've got it done. Picked this up from a cabinet maker who suggested I try this method. Works for me guys!

 

[arjay]

Another neat finish we use when restoring/rebuilding cabinetry and trim in late 19th and early 20th century houses is an oil stain with amber shellac.It's a very pretty finish.

 

[Smith357]

I use Homer Formby's Tung oil, it goes on thinner than Tru-oil so it takes more coats, but it dries fast. I like the ease in which it lays down over the old coats with very minimal buffing between coats.

These were all redone done using Homer Formby

 

[robertwhite]

Just thought I would add some more fuel to the fire as far as waxes or topcoats go.

Butchers Bowling Alley Wax. I've used on gun stocks, on wood tables, etc with great results. Leaves a semi water resistant, semi hard coating (it was made for bowling allies after all) that is durable and shines nicely.

 

[THREEDFLYER]

I use TRU-OIL to refinish and RENAISSANCE WAX for added protection.

 

[italiansport]

Quote:"Gunny Paste. Ah... wonderful stuff! Just mix equal parts of Turpentine, Bees wax and Boiled Linseed Oil (1/3, 1/3, 1/3) to make it. Then... rub it on and buff with a soft cloth. Oh my... wonderful stuff"

That is the formula for the classic old "furniture feeder" used by virtually everyone with 18th century antique pieces. it provides a warmth that is a sight to behold!
Jim

 

[BC38]

FWIW I use TruOil mixed 50/50 with boiled linseed oil and I rub on multiple very light coats using a piece of old T-shirt material. I allow 24 hours dry time between coats. The 50/50 mix is lighter in color than the straight TruOil.

 

[Harrison]

I have used both. Currently all my custom stocks have been furnished in tung oil. The biggest problem with real tung oil is that it takes time, up to a couple - three weeks and then maybe another three weeks for the last coat to fully cure. However the finish is impervious to water (the Chinese used to use it to waterproof their wooden ships and boats) and I have found it it impervious to most solvents and oils, and it really brings out the grain and highlights in a piece of wood. It is easy to touch up.

BTW, use real pure tung oil, not tung oil finish. For the first few coats you may need to cut the tung oil 50/50 with turpentine for better penetration and quicker drying.

In my experience, Tru-Oil give a nice quick finish, that looks good; however, it is not nearly as tough, or durable as a properly done and cured tung oil finish. It certainly is no better looking. It all depends on what you want and how patient/impatient you are to obtain a beautiful finish.

 

[chief38]

The original Quart of Hopes brand Tung oil I bought back in 1978 is still half full and still perfectly usable (it never goes bad since it's 100% Tung Oil and nothing to separate out of solution). This is what I've always used on Rifle, Shotgun and Handgun wood parts and stocks.

While I've always heard great things about Tru-oil I have never gotten around to trying it. I've been so pleased with the 100% Tung Oil I just have not had a reason to stray - especially since I still have plenty left.

Anytime the finish gets a bit worn (from carry or heavy usage), all I do is a light rub-down with 0000 steel wool and apply a few more coats. No sanding, no removal, or special preparation is required. Love the stuff!!