Trying to replace Shield 1.0 sights.. FAIL

[KayakPlinker]

Bought Truglo TFO sites and a puller tool. It sheared a piece of the puller right off. Now between the tool and sights I'm out $130. Great. Pics of the puller and slice of aluminum sitting against the sight.

Do I not bother at this point?

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[Marshal Tom]

Many have reported the Shield sights in particular to be extremely tight and difficult to remove. I had mine done by a gunsmith so I wouldn't damage the slide. I just did Apex triggers in it and my new M&P 2.0 compact. I replaced all the internals myself but took the slides to a gunsmith for removal of the sights to get at the plunger and spring. He used a brass punch.

 

[Jeppo]

I borrowed a puller to do my Shield. I didn’t adequately pad the aluminum block and managed to gouge it. I felt awful about returning the tool (not the one you’re using) that way so I contacted the manufacturer. I purchased a tool for myself and convinced them to sell me a new aluminum block. So, I was able to return the tool “un-damaged”.

It might be worth a call or email.

 

[jrx35]

I also want to replace my M&P sights (not just my Shield). S&W has that front sight tight reputation. Punch and hammer seems to be the common approach from those who have been successful. I was thinking about Night Fision for replacement but their videos suggest test fitting and lapping. Too bad a lot of manufacturers don’t follow the Glock approach.

 

[andy52]

Yep tried a pusher on my shield …..nope it didn't work. I didn't damage anything in the process and went to a hammer and a brass punch which worked fine.

 

[KayakPlinker]

Hmm. Being that tight I'm scared to use a hammer and punch.. My workbench is too wobbly to get the force to transfer.

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[shotgunda]

I took it to a local gunsmith he used a self designed puller it worked great only charged me $40 well worth it in my opinion

 

[jrx35]

Wondering if applying heat like from heat gun before trying to hammer and punch it out would be easier.

 

[KayakPlinker]

I may call around for a gunsmith..

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[sandog]

My pusher was worthless on the M&P sights. Nothing wrong with the old punch and hammer method, just be careful.
Hitting anywhere but the base of the sight is not good.

I turned a round Lyman brass punch into a square one for the rear sight. For the front sight I bought a smaller brass punch from Midway.
The cheap factory white dot sights are really in there tight, I wasn't too worried about saving them.
If your new sights are that tight when first putting them in, you can take some off of the sight's dovetail so they won't go in so difficultly.
You can see the TFO's I installed on my MP9 and on my .45 Shield (in the second pic):

 

[oink]

I tried with a sight pusher but stopped when it looked like the pusher was going to break and I was concerned I would warp the slide rails. I then used a brass punch. The punch now needs serious redressing. The sight never moved. I then used a steel punch but quit when it appeared I would just beat the tar out of the sight before it would move. I have no idea what they were thinking when they made them so tight.

 

[Jhp147]

The only suggestions I have are a long soak in penetrating oil for the whole sight area first. Most here use Kroil, I use whatever is handy. I put it into the sight screw hole and screw the hex screw back in/out a few times to try to push oil down under the sight and let it sit. I have found that a solid bench vise is a MUST. Then, before I use a punch, wrapping the slide area in electrical/painter tape and padded with old credit cards to protect it (on the side of the sight). I'm sure the quality sight pushers can put out more horsepower and not break, but I don't think their manufacturers recommend that. I do better if I work a short time and stop when I get frustrated so I don't get tempted to add too much "hammer" to the work and damage something. I didn't make any of these techniques up myself, just what I have gathered here that helps.
Added for pusher info-I have an EPJ pusher and MGW but either, used without the right prep, can mar a sight or damage a dovetail.

 

[Execpro]

The gun store/range I use has an in-house gunsmith. My Shield 1.0 was shooting 3” to the left so I had them adjust sights and zero the gun in (POA=POI).
I use to do the hammer and punch thing but for around $60 including ammo l decided to let a gunsmith do it. Also, if they messed it up or broke something it was on them to fix at no cost to me.
IMO the sight tool should not have broken (if that’s what happened).
I would call and send it back for a full refund as a defective tool.
I had a supposed case hardened chisel Snap while removing a pin on my snowblower. What ever happened to the steel bar stock they used to make chisels from? Just Sayen.

Be SAFE and Shoot Often!

 

[KayakPlinker]

I kept seeing quotes of $60 +. I just now got back from a local gun store and they did it for $20.

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[handlebar]

I am in total agreement with the work involved in moving the sights.

I used the same sight pusher you have on my Gen 1 Shield. It was difficult at best. It took me about an hour to move the sight half way so I could get out the striker safety plunger. Getting it back in was equally difficult. Those sights are in there rock solid...Smith needs to make them a tad looser and then lock it down with the set screw provided.

I put in the MCARBO spring kit and the Apex trigger (total cost=$80). My trigger was 7.5# plus. After the 1000 grit paper work, polishing and spring replacement my trigger is 4.1# and breaks very crisp. Reset is short and very tactile and audible.

 

[epj]

Shield sight change Picture heavy

I’m not surprised that tool you used failed. Check this out.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Yep tried a pusher on my shield …..nope it didn't work. I didn't damage anything in the process and went to a hammer and a brass punch which worked fine.

That"s what I did too. A sight pusher wouldn't budge it. First I heated the front of the slide with a heat gun(hair dryer on steroids). Then I sprayed it with a penetrating oil. Then the brass punch and hammer. I had to move the front sights on all 3 of my Shields 9-40-45 to get the windage correct for me.

 

[epj]

If you have the right tool, it’s pretty simple. If not, it can be a real challenge.
sightpushertool.com

 

[Steve912]

Sight pushers are nice, when they work (when the
sight's not really tight).

A punch, solid bench & vise, heavy leather padding
on slide and a heavy hammer...works, every time.

A controlled hit from heavy hammer is more precise
than trying to swing a light hammer, harder.

Take your time, hit sight base straight on. Hold tip
of punch against base of sight and make sure it's
square before hitting, each time. Don't worry about
the brass smears on sights--it wipes off with Hoppe's.

Brass punch will peen/mushroom; may need to be
filed/ground periodically. If it bends, go up a size.

Done several Gen 3 sights, that have rep for requiring
"the hammer of Thor" to move--they came out fine,
and the Meprolights or LPA's went in, fine.

 

[epj]

Sight pushers are nice, when they work (when the
sight's not really tight).

A punch, solid bench & vise, heavy leather padding
on slide and a heavy hammer...works, every time.

A controlled hit from heavy hammer is more precise
than trying to swing a light hammer, harder.

Take your time, hit sight base straight on. Hold tip
of punch against base of sight and make sure it's
square before hitting, each time. Don't worry about
the brass smears on sights--it wipes off with Hoppe's.

Brass punch will peen/mushroom; may need to be
filed/ground periodically. If it bends, go up a size.

Done several Gen 3 sights, that have rep for requiring
"the hammer of Thor" to move--they came out fine,
and the Meprolights or LPA's went in, fine.

A well designed and built sight pusher will move extremely tight sights. The sub $50 models you find on eBay are not typically capable of moving tight sights.