UPDATE 10-6 DAO 2” info****it’s a 10-5

[Bald1]

I’ve never seen a DAO 2” model 10-6 square butt. It looks like a factory hammer with “notch”. I don’t know if it can be cocked manually or not. I don’t have much info on it yet. It belongs to a friend. Just wondering if it’s a homesmith job or did S&W actually produce these. Based on all the obnoxious gold inlay I’m guessing it’s a home job. Thanks for any and all input.

 

[Rick Sanborn]

The hammer looks factory, I’ve seen that type before.

 

[alwslate]

Easy to find out if it can be cocked manually. Start the hammer back with the trigger, hook your thumb over the hammer nose and then try to fully cock the hammer manually.

 

[Bald1]

Yes, in my experience you can even (usually) pinch enough hammer with thumb and index finger to cock. I just haven’t seen gun and the owner hasn’t gotten back to me about it………. I can’t find any info anywhere on 10-6 2” ( or any model 10 2”) DAO.

 

[murphydog]

The forward upper frame is contoured for a tapered barrel, so it may be a mis-stamped 10-5 or -7, but probably not a -6.

 

[BC38]

Easy to find out if it can be cocked manually. Start the hammer back with the trigger, hook your thumb over the hammer nose and then try to fully cock the hammer manually.

Forgive my stating the obvious, but this test should be performed with no live ammo in the cylinder.
Just sayin'...

 

[Bald1]

The forward upper frame is contoured for a tapered barrel, so it may be a mis-stamped 10-5 or -7, but probably not a -6.

Interesting. I’ve seen this on other guns where barrel was swapped but didn’t even notice with the shorter barrel. I’ve got to get my hands on it and look it over. Maybe it’s a one of a kind PC special order. Or not lol

 

[Bald1]

Murphydog u are correct. This doesn’t look right

 

[Bald1]

Update, it’s a 10-5 and I now own it. It’s got a bobbed hammer but IS NOT DAO. Any scratches I thought I saw in pics were not there. Original grips, pouch and Barami hip grip came with it. I’ll definitely get rid of gold fill but will probably keep the red paint on front sight. It was done well. Not sure if I’ll look for replacement hammer or not.

 

[71vette]

Update, it’s a 10-5 and I now own it. It’s got a bobbed hammer but IS NOT DAO. Any scratches I thought I saw in pics were not there. Original grips, pouch and Barami hip grip came with it. I’ll definitely get rid of gold fill but will probably keep the red paint on front sight. It was done well. Not sure if I’ll look for replacement hammer or not.

I’d leave the hammer alone. I dig it.

 

[Bald1]

71VETTE , I like it too. I have a DAO 64 too. I’ll probably leave it and carry it as a woods gun, stoked with Buffalo Bore Outdoorsman

 

[Muley Gil]

Swapping a regular hammer for a bobbed one is not too difficult, nor is the reverse.

If you're happy with your new (to you) Smith, more power to you.

I know that most folks like 'em, but to me, a square butt snub is neither fish nor fowl. When concealing a handgun, the butt shape is more important than the barrel length. I can conceal a 4" RB revolver better than I can a square butt 2"er.

 

[BC38]

Swapping a regular hammer for a bobbed one is not too difficult, nor is the reverse.

If you're happy with your new (to you) Smith, more power to you.

I know that most folks like 'em, but to me, a square butt snub is neither fish nor fowl. When concealing a handgun, the butt shape is more important than the barrel length. I can conceal a 4" RB revolver better than I can a square butt 2"er.

I'd tend to agree with all of that.

Unless a factory letter confirms that the spur-less bobbed hammer is original, I'd also lean towards replacing it with a stock, spurred hammer. Just to have the option of shooting it more safely in SA.

It's not like a K-frame makes a great pocket-gun, which is really the point of a spur-less hammer.

But that's just me...

 

[Bald1]

Swapping a regular hammer for a bobbed one is not too difficult, nor is the reverse.

If you're happy with your new (to you) Smith, more power to you.

I know that most folks like 'em, but to me, a square butt snub is neither fish nor fowl. When concealing a handgun, the butt shape is more important than the barrel length. I can conceal a 4" RB revolver better than I can a square butt 2"er.

You are correct sir. I’d also prefer a round butt. But I wasn’t looking for a snub model 10. This one found me, and the price was one I could not refuse. I have no intention of carrying it concealed. I have many other handguns for that role. This will be my outdoors/woods walking gun. I currently use a 4” 64 to fill that role. I’ll stoke it with BB Outdoorsman load or old fashioned Federal FBI load. Whichever it shoots best.

 

[Bald1]

I'd tend to agree with all of that.

Unless a factory letter confirms that the spur-less bobbed hammer is original, I'd also lean towards replacing it with a stock, spurred hammer. Just to have the option of shooting it more safely in SA.

It's not like a K-frame makes a great pocket-gun, which is really the point of a spur-less hammer.

But that's just me...

There will be no letter in this guns future. That would cost me 1/4 of what I paid for gun (yes it was a bargain). It is what it is and I’ll use it as it is.

 

[BC38]

You are correct sir. I’d also prefer a round butt. But I wasn’t looking for a snub model 10. This one found me, and the price was one I could not refuse. I have no intention of carrying it concealed. I have many other handguns for that role. This will be my outdoors/woods walking gun. I currently use a 4” 64 to fill that role. I’ll stoke it with BB Outdoorsman load or old fashioned Federal FBI load. Whichever it shoots best.

There will be no letter in this guns future. That would cost me 1/4 of what I paid for gun (yes it was a bargain). It is what it is and I’ll use it as it is.

That being the case, then the only thing I would do with it is install a regular spurred hammer. Never know when you might want the option of shooting it SA in the woods.