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labloverva
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That's me Bob!
Using trifocal glasses
- Thread starter labloverva
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That's me Bob!
I have been wearing "trifocal progressive lenses" for many years. Even as used to them as I am I still sometimes get caught by surprise going down stairs, looking to the side, etc. But then I laugh and remember why the weirdness happens.
I shoot just fine using them. I just relax and let the lens and the front sight do their job. Sometimes it's blurry but I know what I am looking for so it's never really an issue. For point shooting it is not an issue at all because I am not using the sights, anyway. For longer distances I just take my time and it's all good.
I shoot just fine using them. I just relax and let the lens and the front sight do their job. Sometimes it's blurry but I know what I am looking for so it's never really an issue. For point shooting it is not an issue at all because I am not using the sights, anyway. For longer distances I just take my time and it's all good.
ScaryWoody
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Exact reason I just bought a red dot.
I too have been wearing "progressives" for quite a few years. I remember the day I got the first pair, I had to go to the supermarket from the optometrist. I was freaking out - even stumbling some walking. Got used to them after several weeks and now they are second nature. No problem shooting so I must automatically adjust for that (scope or irons). I do not like them when up high (20 feet) in a ladder stand so I wear straight distance glasses for that. You'll become accustomed to them to the point you don't notice the weirdness about them LOL. Good luck!
CBStuard
Member
The main reason I got rid of the progressive tri-focals was the narrow width of the middle and lower sections. Used to wearing bi-focals for many years but the progressives required me not only moving my head up and down but also left and right. I read a lot on a nook w/ maybe a 5 inch wide screen. I had to move my head left to right because the whole 5 inch line of text wasn't all in focus at the same time.
There's a bunch of related threads on this. I was in trifocal denial for several years. I tried progressives and couldn't make the transition. What I did was get a set (and a spare) of conventional trifocals for general use. For pistol shooting I got a set of industrial safety glasses (actually all my specs are industrial safety glasses-they do have style now as well as protection and are a bunch cheaper) in an occupational grind. This lens setup has the middle distance Rx at the top, distance in the middle and close Rx at the bottom. All I have to do for handgun shooting is a very slight downward nod of the head to see pistols sights, a very slight upward nod for distance. Easy to do, easy to learn.
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Well, I am no expert, for sure, and I never owned a set of trifocals, because I can get along with bifocals, but I DO have a bit of experience with what is going on with me, almost none with what is going on with you. Nevertheless, maybe some of my comments will help.
First off, it depends on what you are trying to do. In my case, no glasses = close reading distance. Also, I am almost old (74), so ability to see at different distances comes from spectacles or bright sunlight, not eyeballs.
At my age, experience and daily routine, the top segment is corrected for infinity, certainly common practice, and, by my choice, the bottom segment is +1.75, meaning that I can see well at about 22.5 inches, just right for computer use, acceptable for reading, and excellent for dashboard instruments in my car. For extended reading of small print, I simply remove my glasses. Note that there is a lot more flexibility outdoors, where the light is brighter, which results in much greater tolerance of incorrect focus.
I find that the best position for the separation of upper and lower is such that when I look straight ahead (through the top segment), the division is just below where I take notice. The optometrist's assistant notes that this puts the separation (when I am looking straight ahead through the top segment), right at the bottom of the iris, which is generally considered the dividing line for the top of the middle segment of trifocals. This seems to me to be consistent with normal use of trifocals.
Because I am old, though not quite palsied, I usually shoot two-handed. This makes my +1.75 lower segment quite acceptable for target shooting, although even target focus can be usable with proper attention to sight picture.
It sounds to me like your (?) choices of segment prescription are quite appropriate, and positioning, as well. Nevertheless, the choice is ultimately yours, not your optometrist's.
It can easily take a couple of days to get used to any new prescription, or even just a new pair of glasses, with apparently identical prescription. Technical reasons abound.
I'd give it a few days, or more. You will learn to deal with your computer. Glad to hear that things (apparently) went so well with you. If it becomes clear that they haven't, post further and, God willing, someone will help out.
First off, it depends on what you are trying to do. In my case, no glasses = close reading distance. Also, I am almost old (74), so ability to see at different distances comes from spectacles or bright sunlight, not eyeballs.
At my age, experience and daily routine, the top segment is corrected for infinity, certainly common practice, and, by my choice, the bottom segment is +1.75, meaning that I can see well at about 22.5 inches, just right for computer use, acceptable for reading, and excellent for dashboard instruments in my car. For extended reading of small print, I simply remove my glasses. Note that there is a lot more flexibility outdoors, where the light is brighter, which results in much greater tolerance of incorrect focus.
I find that the best position for the separation of upper and lower is such that when I look straight ahead (through the top segment), the division is just below where I take notice. The optometrist's assistant notes that this puts the separation (when I am looking straight ahead through the top segment), right at the bottom of the iris, which is generally considered the dividing line for the top of the middle segment of trifocals. This seems to me to be consistent with normal use of trifocals.
Because I am old, though not quite palsied, I usually shoot two-handed. This makes my +1.75 lower segment quite acceptable for target shooting, although even target focus can be usable with proper attention to sight picture.
It sounds to me like your (?) choices of segment prescription are quite appropriate, and positioning, as well. Nevertheless, the choice is ultimately yours, not your optometrist's.
It can easily take a couple of days to get used to any new prescription, or even just a new pair of glasses, with apparently identical prescription. Technical reasons abound.
I'd give it a few days, or more. You will learn to deal with your computer. Glad to hear that things (apparently) went so well with you. If it becomes clear that they haven't, post further and, God willing, someone will help out.
Jaysq
US Veteran
It took me over a month for them to somewhat feel natural. I could never get them to work for the computer and resorted to "over the counter reading glasses". I felt they were, at best a compromise. My vision changed and I no longer needed glasses for distance, so I stopped wearing them. If I had to go back to wearing glasses for distance, I would not go for the trifocals.
ancient-one
US Veteran
I have worn trifocals for years for shooting they were a pain. Had a single vision pair made for the computer and shooting. Clear sights and a target a little fuzzy sure beats fuzzy sights.
Trailryder50
Member
I've been wearing progressives for several years. When fitting for new lenses, while wearing your glasses, they mark on your old lenses where the center of your pupil is.
About 3 years ago I discovered that if I have the lens maker move the progressive range all the way to the top of the lens instead of centering it with my pupil, it makes for much better sighting when using guns, whether it be from looking thru a scope to focusing on sights at arms length. Same for reading. This works well for the size and oval shape of my frames. If you wear a larger frame/lens, you'd determine how many mm's to move the progressive range upward to bring into focus your sight range, with your head at a more comfortable and natural position.
When I measured that for myself the first time, I held my pistol out in front of me in my normal shooting position/stance, closed my eyes and settled on what head position felt natural. Opened my eyes to see the sights out of focus and then estimated how much head movement it took to bring them into focus. I had the center of the progressive range moved up by that much in my new lenses, with the stipulation to the lens maker that he not run the distance range off the top of the lens to achieve that.
The size of my frames are such that I can tell them to move the beginning top edge of the progressive range(distance)all the way to the top of the lens, which for my frames, moves the range up about 5-6mm.
A noticeable and helpful distance for the shooting sports and all around everyday life.
I don't have to cock my head back to focus on those ranges. It was really bad trying to focus in on a scope retical.
For distance vision, I only slightly dip my head. I'd rather slightly dip my head for distance than to have to cock my head back for close up.
About 3 years ago I discovered that if I have the lens maker move the progressive range all the way to the top of the lens instead of centering it with my pupil, it makes for much better sighting when using guns, whether it be from looking thru a scope to focusing on sights at arms length. Same for reading. This works well for the size and oval shape of my frames. If you wear a larger frame/lens, you'd determine how many mm's to move the progressive range upward to bring into focus your sight range, with your head at a more comfortable and natural position.
When I measured that for myself the first time, I held my pistol out in front of me in my normal shooting position/stance, closed my eyes and settled on what head position felt natural. Opened my eyes to see the sights out of focus and then estimated how much head movement it took to bring them into focus. I had the center of the progressive range moved up by that much in my new lenses, with the stipulation to the lens maker that he not run the distance range off the top of the lens to achieve that.
The size of my frames are such that I can tell them to move the beginning top edge of the progressive range(distance)all the way to the top of the lens, which for my frames, moves the range up about 5-6mm.
A noticeable and helpful distance for the shooting sports and all around everyday life.
I don't have to cock my head back to focus on those ranges. It was really bad trying to focus in on a scope retical.
For distance vision, I only slightly dip my head. I'd rather slightly dip my head for distance than to have to cock my head back for close up.
Walt Sherrill
Member
Some months ago, I did as Trailryder50 did. I get my glasses through Costco's optical department, and they seem to have a bit less flexibility in where they can position the middle portion of the trifocal lense.
I had them move it up as past the midway point on the strong eye lens, an make it as wide as they could (not very wide -- about 1/4" -- but it works.) That lets me focus on the sights easily, and then just moving my head a tiny bit lets me see the target clearly, too.
My weak eye lens (my left) is just bifocal.
I had them move it up as past the midway point on the strong eye lens, an make it as wide as they could (not very wide -- about 1/4" -- but it works.) That lets me focus on the sights easily, and then just moving my head a tiny bit lets me see the target clearly, too.
My weak eye lens (my left) is just bifocal.
Don't know about your eyes...but when I had mine done the Surgeon asked me what I wanted. He gave me 20/15 in both eyes, distance is golden! Of course reading glasses are still needed for up close. Just like it always was after I turned 40....don't know why if you didn't have a choice...
$20..? I buy a half dozen at a time at the Dollar store! haha
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labloverva
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For my skeet shooting I'm not having any problems seeing the targets, because I'm looking out of the top of the lens. Reading fine thru the bottom.
Finding the keyboard thru the center trifocals can be a search at times.
Shooting the pistol thru the trifocals has definitely improved.
Thanks to all for the observations!
Finding the keyboard thru the center trifocals can be a search at times.
Shooting the pistol thru the trifocals has definitely improved.
Thanks to all for the observations!
rsrocket1
Member
Another one who gave up on progressives after a year of dizziness. I'm nearsighted and have perfect vision from about 3 feet down to about 4 inches so I'm golden for close up work. When shooting I really only need single power lenses because the front dot of the gun is at least 4 feet out and I could tolerate it being slightly fuzzy if it ensures a clear view of the target.
I've also been practicing with both eyes open for all shooting. I've always kept both open for skeet shooting and have recently done the same for rifle and pistol shooting and it's actually made my shooting better. A crisp view of the target with the dot or crosshairs superimposed over it makes for better shooting at least for me. In order to do this, I need good vision at infinity. Red dots are also set for an infinity view. I cannot see the red dot clearly without corrective lenses but with glasses, it's sharp.
I've also been practicing with both eyes open for all shooting. I've always kept both open for skeet shooting and have recently done the same for rifle and pistol shooting and it's actually made my shooting better. A crisp view of the target with the dot or crosshairs superimposed over it makes for better shooting at least for me. In order to do this, I need good vision at infinity. Red dots are also set for an infinity view. I cannot see the red dot clearly without corrective lenses but with glasses, it's sharp.
VTHokiesDuckHunter
Member
Another Shotgunworld and S-W Forum member who has posted on this topic before (many times) over there.
I’ve worn contacts and glasses for over 40 years and now my main pair of glasses are Progressive Lens models (in Flexon frames). Love them for day to day use but hate them for shorting Sporting Clays. (Skeet and Trap are OK because I’m almost always looking through the top part). I shoot better though in single vision lenses and contacts for distance correction (nearsightedness). The best bet is to use contacts (and not those with one for far and one for near) with quality shooting glasses for protection; or with single vision prescription shooting glasses made by an optician who understands shooters needs. And then use readers as needed, kept in your vest, for your scorecard, etc.
Here’s something a long time Progressive Lens user will tell you. One brand of Progressives may work perfectly for you in a given frame; and those from another brand ground by the same Lab in those same frames - will not work at all. And maybe vice versa on the two brands of lenses in different shaped frames. And I buy top quality lenses, and fortunately have an Eye doc that works with me on this. Maybe Essilor or Zeiss, maybe Kodak or something else. Lots of variables to get it right.
I had one high end brand made into Progressives recently and everything looked slanted at a 15 degree angle left. And again with the second pair they made from that brand. (Which I had used before and loved in more rounded frames).
Lenses were the. remade, in the same Lab, to the same scrip, from a competing brand - and they worked perfectly.
I’ve worn contacts and glasses for over 40 years and now my main pair of glasses are Progressive Lens models (in Flexon frames). Love them for day to day use but hate them for shorting Sporting Clays. (Skeet and Trap are OK because I’m almost always looking through the top part). I shoot better though in single vision lenses and contacts for distance correction (nearsightedness). The best bet is to use contacts (and not those with one for far and one for near) with quality shooting glasses for protection; or with single vision prescription shooting glasses made by an optician who understands shooters needs. And then use readers as needed, kept in your vest, for your scorecard, etc.
Here’s something a long time Progressive Lens user will tell you. One brand of Progressives may work perfectly for you in a given frame; and those from another brand ground by the same Lab in those same frames - will not work at all. And maybe vice versa on the two brands of lenses in different shaped frames. And I buy top quality lenses, and fortunately have an Eye doc that works with me on this. Maybe Essilor or Zeiss, maybe Kodak or something else. Lots of variables to get it right.
I had one high end brand made into Progressives recently and everything looked slanted at a 15 degree angle left. And again with the second pair they made from that brand. (Which I had used before and loved in more rounded frames).
Lenses were the. remade, in the same Lab, to the same scrip, from a competing brand - and they worked perfectly.
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