Value of blued vs. nickel plated model 29-2 S&W revolvers

papicker61

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Just wondering if there is any significant value difference between blued vs. nickel plated model 29-2 Smith revolvers in various barrel lengths, being in excellent condition, with 100% original finish, and perfect mechanics. If so what percentage value difference is there? Not concerned with box and accessories...just the gun itself. Thanks very much for your opinion.
 
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I like nickel handguns.

Nickel guns consistently bring a premium, usually 10-15% more than blued.

Smith seems to have stopped making their lovely nickel finished guns. As a result, I think there's a premium to be paid for nickel above and beyond the scarcity factor (nickel guns generally represent about 10% of production).

Smith has changed all of their finishes in the last years. None of the newer finishes hold a candle to the old blue and nickel. This works to raise prices for guns Smith made with one of their classic finishes in either blue or nickel.
 
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I prefer blued revolvers to shoot, but I would not expect to pay less for a nickeled one. I wouldn't be surprised to see a seller asking a small premium for nickel, but that would be optimistic, IMO.
 
Factory nickel has always commanded a 10-15% premium over blued S&W firearms. Aftermarket nickel plating does not add value and can decrease the value. Be sure of what you are buying.
 
I like nickel handguns.

Nickel guns consistently bring a premium, usually 10-15% more than blued.

This^^

SCSW always says "premium for nickel" in its descriptions, and sometimes give a percentage increase if it's on a particularly rare model, or a low number of nickel guns produced in a model.

For the M29, the series number will determine the premium in nickel; for instance, a M29 (no dash) has a 50% premium for a nickel version. A M29-1, which already has a ANIB value of $5K, nickel brings a 2x to 3x of the standard value. Once you get to the dash-2, it just says "premium for nickel", probably depending on barrel length, because it says only one M29-2 known with a 5-1/2" barrel in nickel.
 
44 Magnums finished in nickel made up approximately 10-15 percent of the total production, so have always been priced higher than those finished in bright blue. The exception is early 44 Magnums with a 5-screw frame, as eighteen have been found in factory records and only eight or nine have been reported by collectors. Depending on condition, these revolvers will sell for $8,000 to $10,000 or more.

Bill
 
Thanks to everyone for their knowledgeable opinions. Very much appreciated.
 
I like nickle very much, until it peals away. I was told never to clean a nickle gun with a #9 in it's name because it was formulated to clean cu-pro nickle bullet fouling from military ammunition.
 
I only care for Nickel in certain guns. A Colt SAA in Nickel with Stag Grips floats my boat! Got a few of them :) For most other target or carry guns I much prefer a blued finish. Nickel is a bit too flashy, reflective and harder to shoot in the sunlight. While Nickel used to be preferred as a better rust preventative, that issue has been solved by Stainless and Black Nitride these days.

Back in the day (pre 1970's) a blued gun was the "good guy's gun and the Nickel gun was the bad guy's - at least that is what old L/E guys always told me.
 
I like nickle very much, until it peals away. I was told never to clean a nickle gun with a #9 in it's name because it was formulated to clean cu-pro nickle bullet fouling from military ammunition.
That is not an issue with S&W factory nickel finishes. S&W plated directly to the underlying aluminum or steel, they never used a copper intermediate layer. Would I let any solvent just sit on a S&W nickel finish? No, but to dissolve powder residue, Hoppes No. 9 if wiped off is not going to hurt a S&W.
 
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I've had a number of nickel S&Ws going back to the first 29 I bought about fifty years ago. The price difference between blue and nickel on new S&Ws for years was minimal - nickel was only slightly more than blue. I've found the nickel guns easier to sell because there are far fewer of them. They do bring more at sale or trade time.

I've used Hoppe's #9 for cleaning all nickel handguns for many years and still do, but I use it for cleaning only. I wouldn't soak a gun in it. If a gun already has nickel flaking off, any solvent might accelerate the process. After cleaning, wipe down with a soft lightly oiled cloth and your finish will look like new for many years.

I don't know where this rumor started about Hoppe's #9 and nickel finish, but it likely wasn't from someone with experience in this area.
 
I don't know where this rumor started about Hoppe's #9 and nickel finish, but it likely wasn't from someone with experience in this area.[/QUOTE]

Blame Colt who plated over copper.Any pourses spot in the nickel could let the Hoppes sink in and attack the copper caused a disaster.
 
I don't know where this rumor started about Hoppe's #9 and nickel finish, but it likely wasn't from someone with experience in this area.

Blame Colt who plated over copper.Any pourses spot in the nickel could let the Hoppes sink in and attack the copper caused a disaster.[/QUOTE]

I don't intend to verify this, but I'm pretty sure any solvent, not just Hoppe's #9, will eventually do some damage to a nickel finish that has a break in it regardless of the process used in applying the finish.

A nickel finish is very durable. I've yet to damage a nickel finish in any way and I've been using and shooting such handguns for decades; none are safe royalty, but I'd think twice about buying a handgun with a damaged nickel finish.
 

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