Victory 22 takedown screw stuck

glocke12

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Just picked one up Thursday and after firing a couple of hundred rounds though it tried taking it apart. Screw would not budge. The manual said it may take significant pressure to make it move so I added more pressure and in doing so I may have stripped the screw head.

Anyone else have this issue? This is very irritating.
 
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Screw

Hello,
if you have stripped the screw head your pretty much stuck, you need to get to a gunsmith, or you need to have the proper tools and decent Vise to clamp the pistol, so the head can be drilled off.
once that is done, the barrel can be removed over the stud, typically if the screw is locked down that tight, the stud should spin out free by hand.
If not then maybe that screw was installed improperly, and cross threaded.
Heat helps when thread locker has been used. Also are you using the proper wrench.
They are probably using a stainless steel screw, I would just switch to a standard alloy steel screw.
I doubt I will ever own a Victory model, the 422's and some others seem to be the lower priced alternatives to the model 41.
 
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Hello,
if you have stripped the screw head your pretty much stuck, you need to get to a gunsmith, or you need to have the proper tools and decent Vise to clamp the pistol, so the head can be drilled off.
once that is done, the barrel can be removed over the stud, typically if the screw is locked down that tight, the stud should spin out free by hand.
If not then maybe that screw was installed improperly, and cross threaded.
Heat helps when thread locker has been used. Also are you using the proper wrench.
They are probably using a stainless steel screw, I would just switch to a standard alloy steel screw.
I doubt I will ever own a Victory model, the 422's and some others seem to be the lower priced alternatives to the model 41.


fixed...wasn't stripped..just way over torqued at the factory. Local gunsmith was able to get it out with a great deal of difficulty.

Yeah, I get the reluctance to buy into the Victory 22...I didn't like it at first and thought it was ugly, but I was really looking for a suppressor host and I did not like the offerings by Ruger in terms of their offerings with factory threaded barrels.

Aside from the takedown screw issue I really do like the Victory. It's accurate, has a good trigger out of the box, and it's ease in cleaning is great for me since I will be shooting it a ton with a suppressor.
 
screw

That's great, I would still find an Alloy screw replacement, a screw that size, would normally snap the head off if it were over torqued, the screw's are soft, stainless, I would rather not have the wrench strip out the hex.
Make sure your hex wrench is not rounded off now that this has happened, it's easy to mess up a new screw with a damaged wrench.
 
That's great, I would still find an Alloy screw replacement, a screw that size, would normally snap the head off if it were over torqued, the screw's are soft, stainless, I would rather not have the wrench strip out the hex.
Make sure your hex wrench is not rounded off now that this has happened, it's easy to mess up a new screw with a damaged wrench.
Actually, the screw is a #12-28 x 3/8 alloy steel (ASTM A574) socket head cap screw. It's not likely to strip.
 
the bolt has loosened up on me every time Ive shot. I have 8 mags so it usually gets warmed up pretty good whenever I shoot. Id say its had 800 to 1000 rounds thru it so far. I torque the bolt to the point of gettn nervous. There has to be a solution to keep it snug without excessive torque being it will be done so many times during the life of the gun. Other than this problem I like the gun a lot so a solution is a must.
 
I've owned my Victory for a couple of months now and have never had any problems with the barrel screw. When I first got mine, I stripped it down and thoroughly cleaned it. When I assembled it, I made sure that the barrel screw was in good and tight. After each visit to the range, I check the screw and so far no issues.
 
I have always been diligent about cleaning, lubricating and properly torqueing the takedown screw. This worked fine for me until about round 1200. Then I developed a serious case of loose takedown screw. I started using Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the screw about 400 rounds later. I have not had the problem since then and I'm at 2360 rounds. Others have solved the problem with a split ring lock washer or a #61 o-ring.

This was discussed starting at post #53 of this thread.
 
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Glad you got her fixed. The Victory is a real blast to shoot. I've just gone over 1,000 rounds in it and shoot 100 rounds a session. I am averaging about half the time with a loose barrel at about the 60 round point.

Today my LGS guy said when I bring it in to shoot he will use a torque wrench to see how tight it is and then when done shooting he will do the same. I'm going to take him up on that to try and teach my muscles how much to tighten the screw.

Very glad I bought the pistol.
 
I use a split ring washer and I have not had it loosen at all...plus it unscrews with not much effort.
 
This post is totally opposite most posts on the Victory 22 as most the dang screw keeps coming loose. I have bought the O-rings but haven't tried them yet.
 
Just picked one up Thursday and after firing a couple of hundred rounds though it tried taking it apart. Screw would not budge. The manual said it may take significant pressure to make it move so I added more pressure and in doing so I may have stripped the screw head.

Anyone else have this issue? This is very irritating.

Mine was sent to Smith and Wesson for this very issue. Still waiting for it to get back to me. A little angry that this happened but from what I am hearing it could have been worse.
 
Just torque it to 40 inch pounds and you should be good to go without any locktite or washers required at all.
 
Also having the overtight problem on new Victory. I have a set of Allen wrenches which offer more leverage, but still won't budge. Gonna shoot a couple of hundred rounds and hope the vibration will help break it loose. Otherwise, back to S&W. It in a very nice target gun, but this may be an Achilles heal :-(
 
Just torque it to 40 inch pounds and you should be good to go without any locktite or washers required at all.

whats a good torque driver to get? I've been looking at the Wheeler set...
 
I use the Wheeler F.A.T. Wrench and really like it. But, it does not come with a 1/8" allen bit. I am using the 1/8" bit that came with the Wheeler gunsmithing screwdriver set.
 
That's great, I would still find an Alloy screw replacement, a screw that size, would normally snap the head off if it were over torqued, the screw's are soft, stainless, I would rather not have the wrench strip out the hex.
Make sure your hex wrench is not rounded off now that this has happened, it's easy to mess up a new screw with a damaged wrench.

The takedown screw is an alloy, not stainless.
 

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