Victory Model Hammer Block problem

[hangtree]

Is the hammer block for the Victory model recessed into the side plate? If that's what it is, mine is broken.
How does it come out if that's what it is. Can I still fire the gun or should I wait until I get the part replaced?
It says 38 S&W Special CTG on the barrel. Numrich shows their hammer block for this model to be for a British Victory model. Is it the same?
Not even sure it is the hammer block, but it is recessed into the side plate.
Thanks,
Jack

 

[hangtree]

Is the hammer block for the Victory model recessed into the side plate? If that's what it is, mine is broken.
How does it come out if that's what it is. Can I still fire the gun or should I wait until I get the part replaced?
It says 38 S&W Special CTG on the barrel. Numrich shows their hammer block for this model to be for a British Victory model. Is it the same?
Not even sure it is the hammer block, but it is recessed into the side plate.
Thanks,
Jack

 

[john traveler]

Yes, the British Victory model, the Lend-Lease guns, and the US Victory models share the same hammer block design. They differ in caliber and finish only.

The old Victory model hammer block is a long springy arm secured by staking into the side plate. If the upper end of the arm is loose and broken, it should be removed, as it will make the gun unreliable. With the hammer block removed, remember that the gun can accidentally fire if the hammer is impacted or dropped. Keep an empty chamber under the hammer. Replacement of the broken hammer block requires re-staking it into place.

The late war redesign to the rebound slide connected hammer block is shown in the "VS" stamping in the serial number.

 

[hangtree]

Thanks John.
I don't have the VS stamping just the V (dunno if that matters.) It is a long springy arm and it is broken about half way down.
How do I get the old one out? Does the pin go into the recess and free up the block or is the pin part of the block? Or do i extract the pin some way?
And when I reinstall the new one, while putting the side plate back on, should I have the hammer cocked or in the down position. Don't wont to break the new one.
Thanks again,
Jack

 

[john traveler]

The absence of the VS in the serial number indicates the old hammer block design, not the post WWII design that operates off a pin on the rebound slide. The old hammer block was a long springy arm that was cammed out of the way by movement of the hand during action cycling.

The hammer block end slides into place in the sideplate groove for it. Gentle tapping on the end will press out the broken stub. Installation is the reverse. Hammer should be down when installing the sideplate. Check function by cyling the action, and see that the hammer block is cammed out of engagement by the hand.