Victory Model

jwrussell

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Hi all, I'm trying to determine the serial number and year of production on victory model. I don't actually own this yet. Just trying to get some info
 

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V7454xx would have been a Victory Model M&P produced very late in 1944. Very shortly thereafter, the V prefix was changed to SV (to designate the new hammer safety improvement), with production of the SV-series starting in very early 1945. The stocks on it appear of the style used by S&W from 1930-41. I cannot see them well enough to assess their condition, but if they are not beat-up and badly worn, that's a good thing, as that type is worth somewhat more than the period-original smooth grips. The missing lanyard loop can be replaced. Both smooth grips and lanyard loops are available reasonably. The topstrap stamping indicates it was made for military use. What is the caliber stamped on the barrel - .38 S&W or .38 S&W Special? A full picture showing the entire revolver, both sides, would be helpful in making a better ID.
 
were the last 2 digits Xed out, or does it just appear that way?
 
Hi Walt. Finally got that info. On the RH side of the barrel reads "K38 S&W CTCK". I can't see the full left side of the barrel but "Smith & Wesson" is printed.
 
Pics attached
 

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It is stamped ".38 S&W CTG" (CTG is an abbreviation for cartridge). Therefore it is the British .38/200 version. Time for caution, for several reasons. First, many of the .38/200s had their chambers lengthened after the war to accept .38 S&W cartridges. It works, but any collector value vanishes and it becomes just a shooter worth whatever anyone is willing pay for it. Second, even if has not been altered, .38 S&W ammo, while still loaded, is difficult to find and quite expensive. Think $1 per round. It's not a revolver that anyone who plans to shoot much needs, unless the "anyone" plans to reload. The US version in .38 S&W Special is much better for anyone who wants to shoot much. The finish appears to be not so hot. If you are contemplating purchase, you need to establish if the chambers have been altered or not. If so, avoid. Second, I wouldn't make much of a monetary investment in it, given its condition and caliber.
 
Good to know. Thanks for taking the time to explain. I'll just avoid this guy and keep my eye out for the right collectable.
 

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