Victory Navy Now With Holster

DocB

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So much rarer than the gun. Last week when I picked up this gun for $300, I just figured I'd pop on EBAY and take my pick among numerous vintage holsters. . .just like you can do with holsters for the Luger, P38, M1911, etc. Well, there were two. This one looked like the better one. For $50, nothing ventured, nothing lost. It turned out really nice after I reconditioned the leather and used some Kiwi products on it. Under completed listings, there were none. Now I know why I didn't have this holster in my WWII collection. I also know why the right side of these Victory revolvers are all scratched up. . .the metal snap on the holster rubbing on the gun.
 

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I have little pads I stick on when it's a holster I might carry. They work pretty good. Won't be carrying this one. . .just a missing relic to add to my collection.
 
DocB, I just looked at my mint, unissued holster, which looks identical to yours and it has a round disk of leather sewn on the inside, backing up the post. Not sure if this is the norm or exception.

Bob
 
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How in the world did you get a victory for 300 bucks? Last one I saw was like 1200, I think it was. I don't quite remember how much they wanted because it was way too much for me to spend.
 
Show us some picture of the holster's back side and with the flap open, etc. If correct, it will have the US Military contractor/makers stamp, and perhaps a date. It may be a reproduction or non US issue commercial holster. Not correct for a Victory, only for 4in. K frame S&W. . Have you checked the info. in Meadow's book on US Military holsters on correct Victory holsters ? Ed.
 
For $50, nothing ventured, nothing lost. It turned out really nice after I reconditioned the leather and used some Kiwi products on it.
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I'd say you got a good deal. That's a good find, and makes a nice combination with the gun. It's lots of fun (and sometimes expensive) putting together some period correct vintage items to go with a gun. It's worth it, though..

Congratulations again on some good finds and great bargains.
 
Ed, this holster is described on page 355 of Meadows excellent book as a U. S. Navy holster for the Victory Model Revolver. Unknown manufacture and rarely ever dated or marked. Mostly attributed to being used by Shore Patrol during WWII. DocB's holster not having the leather disk behind the post is curious/suspicious from my understanding of this holster and comparing my own example.

Bob
 
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It has the leather disc which is pretty worn and deteriorated. Contrary to the good picture, the holster has seen heavy use. I figure most of them got thrown away since they cannot be used on a normal belt. It's a rather good size leather disc with the center of it worn through so you can see the underside of the green brass snap. I need to clean that stuff off of it.
 
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This is a cool post. Here's it's British brother. SN V141520. .38-200 Nitro BNP Proofed, US Property marked. Holster was inspected by a friend that's into pre war stuff and he said it looked like the real deal. The end of the holster was cut off to accept a five inch gun. No markings on the holster at all. Sure looks old to me. :)





DW
 
I've acquired a very nice, possibly unissued, 4" K-frame holster with 1/2 flap and "lift the dot" closure, marked "US" in oval cartouche on front. Backside has rectangular panel, sewn and riveted, which mounts the wire hanger for pistol belt and is slotted for flat belt up to 2". Panel is steel-stamped "R.I.A." w/ink stamp below, "MRT 5-53". I read these as Rock Island Arsenal mfr. with inspection by MRT in May of 1953.
What's the best way to remove the waxy, green verdigris from around the copper rivets and closure ?

Larry
 
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I've acquired a very nice, possibly unissued, 4" K-frame holster with 1/2 flap and "lift the dot" closure, marked "US" in oval cartouche on front. Backside has rectangular panel, sewn and riveted, which mounts the wire hanger for pistol belt and is slotted for flat belt up to 2". Panel is steel-stamped "R.I.A." w/ink stamp below, "MRT 5-53".
What's the best way to remove the waxy, green verdigris from around the copper rivets and closure ?

Larry

I use a toothpick and q-tip. Try to avoid anything sharp that could scratch the metal. The verdigris will come back over time... just keep an eye on it.
 
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