Virgin reloader

[dcxplant]

Good evening all, I'm an FNG on the forum, and I just purchased my first reloader! For any other FNG's out there who would like to start, I'd like to try and chronicle my journey from purchase to first batch of rounds.

Tomorrow morning I'll be sippin' my joe over the instructions, watching the set-up video, and trying to keep an eye on our 19 week old chocolate lab, first name Kodiak...

I bought the RL 550B from Dillon. I read a lot of good things about it, watched some vids on YouTube, and the two factors that got me to buy the Dillon was 1-the warranty, and 2-I live in Scottsdale where the HQ is.

I worked with a rep named Matt at the Scottsdale store, who was really helpful and super-sharp with the product knowledge. He patiently showed every step of reloading and set-up, as well as showing the features of the various models to be sure that I got what I needed as well as expecting. I can't say enough about the excellent customer service, the best product service I gotten in years. After spending about an hour in the shop, I bought the 550B and a few things to get ready to roll:

Dillon RL 550B
Dies for 10mm/40SW
Dies for 44 Mag (now you know my true reason for reloading!)
Spare die tool head for second caliber
Dillon's analog calipers
Dillon case cleaner and corn media
Electronic scale
Dillon's strong stand (optional mounting stand for press)
Primer flipper

Total plus the considerable AZ tax and city tax was just over a grand. A lot, but I am ready to reload two expensive calibers. I was planning on checking out all the stuff at the Dillon HQ retail store, and scrounge up the press and other things online etc. to get the best prices, but after the great in store service, I bought it all right there, and now I have the Dillon warranty.

Why I bought these things:
-550b: easy to set up, and change calibers. HQ in my hometown, warranty, tough, reliable.

-Spare die tool head: will save tons of time by having a complete caliber ready to slide in, no secondary set-ups. Like Ron from Ronco's rotisserie: set it and forget it (almost I'll still have to make fine adjustments from time to time.

-Analog calipers: I saved money over digital, and these are plenty accurate for my needs.

-Case cleaner and media: I've amassed a good collection of found brass, and plan on finding more-hey, it's free!

-Electronic powder scale: I will not save money on this critical item, a balance scale was a non-starter. Measuring powder is too critical to skimp on for me.

-Strong Stand: This will keep the press more stable with less wiggle, and make pulling/indexing easier because it raises the press to a more ergonomic position.

-Primer flipper: It would take all day to do this correctly without it!

My next step is to buy the needed consumables, get some reloading manuals, and set her up.

Thanks!

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Congratulations on starting to reload. I'm a little surprised your first reloading press is a progressive press. There is a learning curve when you start reloading and IMO starting with a progressive press only steepens the curve.

BE VERY CAREFUL not to double charge a case. A "powder cop" dies would be a good idea and even with one you should look inside every case before the bullet goes on.

Good luck with your new press, you did buy a good one.

 

[Steve in Vermont]

BE VERY CAREFUL not to double charge a case. A "powder cop" dies would be a good idea and even with one you should look inside every case before the bullet goes on.

Ditto on this advice. I have a single stage and was loading Bullseye Powder last night. I check every load carefully and one didn't look right. Checked it and.....yep. Got my attention.

 

[dcxplant]

I was hoping to get some advise before starting this morning, so thanks!

I will run the 550 one cartridge at a time to gain experience with the machine and reloading in general.

Early in my career I worked on F-4 Phantoms and F/A-18's in the Marines and paid for my college and flight lessons working on aircraft in a local aircraft repair station, and have always maintained my motorcycles (including adjusting valves, balancing carbs/throttle bodies) so I am pretty handy with tools. It helps being of German descent, my anal-retentiveness knows almost no bounds-ha!

I have a healthy respect for precision with critical components, and reloading ammunition is certainly critical.

Message received: Be careful, check the powder!

It looks like the "powder cop" goes after the powder drop stage, but the 550B has only four stations, not five, like the 650 does. If I can use the powder cop on my 550, please tell me. It was not obvious on Hornady's website.

I almost bought the 650 for the powder alarm feature alone (beeps with too much or too little powder) but the cost savings of the 550 vs 650 paid for a second caliber/tool head setup.

Also, the 650 with it's auto indexing seems a bit over the top for a noob like me. There are a lot of critical things going on all at once.

As for powder checking, I will mount an inspection mirror on the back of the press frame so I can easily peek in each case before the bullet is seated. I got that idea on this forum somewhere, so a big thanks to who posted that!

I believe in a "best practices" approach to complicated tasks, so if anyone has experience with the Dillon 550 that they would like to share, I'd love to hear it-hey, that's why we're here right

 

[Maximumbob54]

You might add to the mirror a small led lamp. That will help you see for sure with the added light. I have one with a flexing neck but it takes AAAA batteries and I hate having to order them. Time for an upgrade...

 

[dcxplant]

You might add to the mirror a small led lamp. That will help you see for sure with the added light. I have one with a flexing neck but it takes AAAA batteries and I hate having to order them. Time for an upgrade...

A fine idea, I'll incorporate that. Thanks!

 

[matsu]

All good advise have had a Dillion 550B for over 25 years other goodie's
are bullet tray and roller handle

 

[M29since14]

You might add to the mirror a small led lamp. That will help you see for sure with the added light...

Excellent advice.

Dillons take a lot of abuse from people who claim they cause all sorts of problems, but they are just a machine, like any other. The results will depend on the skill of the user. If you do not allow yourself to become distracted while you are reloading, you can turn out thousands of rounds and never have a problem. If anything causes an interruption in your operation of the machine, that is the dead giveaway that it is time to stop immediately - check and re-check EVERYTHING before proceeding. The slightest bit of confusion can precipitate a disaster.

The idea to process single rounds until you are comfortable with the operation of the machine is a good one. It is not a complicated process and you should get past that quickly. But all the other considerations of reloading remain, and are the same whether using a progressive press or not.

I always suggest that new handloaders should deliberately stay away from maximum charges - for a lot of reasons. There really is a lot to learn. Having that electronic scale is a great thing. However, like anything else, that scale needs to be monitored. If you do not have a set of test weights for it, get them!

 

[PALADIN85020]

The powder check die is not available for the 550. It's a good idea to check the powder level visually.

Although many people advocate starting with a single stage press, the slowness of such presses soon encourages the purchase of a progressive reloader. Might as well start with the progressive and save some money. The Dillon 550 is the workhorse of the line, easy to learn and use, and offers the most versatility of any of the lineup. It also gives you the advantage of total control over the process; nothing happens until you want it to. Plus you will get unequaled customer service. The CS reps are all veteran reloaders and will be happy to answer any questions on the phone. It doesn't get any better than that. Also, when and if you finally wear out a part, Dillon's "no BS" warranty applies and it will be in the mail to you no charge.

John

 

[Moonman]

Get some manuals and READ-READ-READ. Get to know the what and why's of things in reloading. (What to do, what to watch for, what NOT to do). You eventually should get a chronograph to check the actual velocity of your hand-loading work. You can try to tape a small flex neck bore light (1 AAA battery) to the press.
I got at Brownell's $6.25. I have one taped to the optional wrench holder on a Square D press.

I also have a long flexible light that mounts on a rear shelf of my bench. Keep only (1) ONE powder at the reloading bench at a time, powders do not mix.

When setting up the progressive, drop (10) TEN charges and weigh the 10. You then divide by 10 and you'll have the average charge that you and your press operating motion are delivering. Adjust the powder drop and repeat.

I actually HAND prime the cases, before loading the case in my Square D. (I remove the decapping pin from the decapping/sizing die, as decapping a live primer is not good.) I check to see primers are seated below flush.

Make sure to check your overall length (COL). I have chamber gages to check the finished round, some people use the barrel of the firearm being loaded for. (easy if it's an automatic).
Have fun.

 

[Culina]

Since you started off with a progressive, maybe you should put a bullet puller on the list. Hopefully you won't need it but when you have a press that can turn out a lot of loaded rounds quickly, if there is a problem, it means you will have lots of rejects.

I have been reloading since 1992 and still do not own a progressive press. I only reload 2000-3000 rounds a year which I do not consider high volume.

 

[matsu]

There is a you tube website called the ultimate reloader who has video's of Hornady, Lee ,RCBS and Dillion progressive press's demos

 

[Moonman]

+++++1 on the Ultimate reloader you-tube site.

 

[fredj338]

Welcome to a great new hobby. The 550B will give you years of trouble free service. I have loaded on a couple for some 25yrs+ & recently sold the first one I bought & got a 650 to go with the other 550B. It's addicting. I know guys that I swear shoot just so they can reload.

 

[shooter1950]

Bullet puller is needed befor mass production begins. Been loading over 25yrs and a couple of months ago things were going so good I forgot to keep an eye on the powder and loaded the last 80 rounds without powder.

 

[dcxplant]

Thanks all!!

I just got the machine up on the bench, but I am not ready to set up the dies until I have an inkling of what I'm doing.

New additions:

-Latest copies of Lyman's and Speer's reloading manuals.
-Robbed an old lampstand from spare bedroom to shine onto the station (check powder). I think there is enough open space on the machine for me to peek into the cases to check power, so for now no mirror, but if I need to I'll mount one.
-Bullet puller
-Case gauges for each caliber

Components!
-Powder: IMR 4227 (what the store had in stock that was in both books for my caliber/bullet weights)
-Bullets: Berry's plated 240gr flat point .44 and 165gr flat point .40SW
-Primers: Winchester small pistol standard; large pistol for standard or magnum.
-New Winchester 44 Magnum cases.

I'm reading through the Lyman and Speer manuals before getting started. I am especially enjoying the Speer manual, very well written.

Questions:

-With the Dillon dies, do I need to lube the cases?
-Does anyone hand clean the primer pockets, or just run the cases through the media machine and call it a day?

 

[dcxplant]

Thanks very much you guys!

Kurac,
I thought long and hard about progressive or not… Ultimately, I figured I’d prolly end up enjoying this hobby and moving into a progressive anyway.

Shooter 1950,
If you did it I sure as heck can too!! Got the puller…

Thanks Matsu, I’ll check it out.

M29since14,
Hey, a kindred soul! I bought a new M29 Mem Day weekend, and after buying three boxes of ammo decided it is going to be expensive to feed my new baby. I’d been playing with the idea to reload for years, but the M29 got me to do it. Plus, I’m really looking forward to working up plinking rounds, accuracy rounds-fun fun! Man I just love shooting that chunk of metal… I rented one before I bought it, because I was really intimidated by the recoil, but heck, I shot that 6 ½ in. M29 better at 25 yards off-hand within the first two cylinders than I hardly do at 25 feet with my HK USP Compact 40!! For some reason that HK in 40 cal really sends out a nasty blast.

 

[Rule3]

No, you do not need to lube the straight wall cases, nor do you need to clean the primer pockets. Some do, I don't.

You might want to reconsider your bullet choice for the 44 Mag.

Plated bullets are just that, plated. They are not good for Magnum loads and do not have a crimp groove( cannelure) The should not be driven past 1200 fps.

Some hard cast lead or more expensive FMJ (Speer, Hornady etc) if you do not want lead.

Start low and work up, check and double check.

 

[matsu]

another book that can be a big help is ABC's of Reloading

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Components!
-Powder: IMR 4227 (what the store had in stock that was in both books for my caliber/bullet weights)
-Bullets: Berry's plated 240gr flat point .44 and 165gr flat point .40SW

Just because a manual lists a powder for a caliber doesn't mean it will do a good job in that caliber. 4227 is a good powder for the .44 Magnum but not that good for the 40 S&W. IMO 4227 is much too slow a powder for the 40 S&W.

I would give slightly faster powders a try in the 40 S&W like HS-6, Longshot, Auto Comp, Power Pistol, AA#7 or other powders in that burn rate range.