Don't make the mistakes I did starting out. As in the ONLY Lee products that give you good value for money are the reloading Die kits.
Lee Safety Scale. JUNK. It is really fiddly to set and if set on a reloading bench the Zero Setting WILL drift.
Lee Perfect Powder Measure. JUNK. Extremely fiddly to set and with fine ball powders it leaks badly and jams up solid.
Lee Load All shot shell press. Notorious for being very cheap and taking two to four years of practice in order to start getting repeatable results.
Basically if it's made by Lee and uses plastic in it's construction you'll be either throwing it against a concrete wall or into the trash within 6 months of purchase. On the flip side their die sets are excellent. I'll also note that the Lee Reloading Manual is quite useful and a very good read on the basics of reloading.
Now look to RCBS. The Rock Chucker Supreme kit does come with some fluff items but most of it comes with basics you will need and every single item is well thought out and very well made.
Final note. Primers are coming back but a lot of powders that you'll see recommended are NOT currently available. One such powder is Unique. Some good news is that there are alternatives and in many cases will measure much more consistently than Unique with features a Standard Deviation of 0.17 grains. If you want an excellent metering powder for 38 special I would recommend Vihtavouri 3N37. It has no position sensitivity and the SD in a volume based powder measure is 0.07 grains. It also seems to be tuned specifically for 38 or 9mm caliber ammunition. For 357 Magnum the hot ticket is H110. It is one of the best metering powders in existence and you can build some "holy ****" hand loads with this powder. Note much milder loads are also possible, it's a real favorite for 9000-10,000 psi 410 loads. Other suggestions are any of the Accurate Handgun powders such as #2, #5, #7, or #9. All meter wonderfully and the range has enough variety to cover almost any handgun load.
Primers. These are in short supply and often quantities are limited per purchase. So, use what you can find and if possible stick to Small Pistol wherever possible. Most small pistol primers produce energy levels in a very similar range and are interchangeable if you are loading about halfway between the maximum and minimum powder charge. Magnum Pistol primers are a fair bit hotter and there is more variation between brands for these primers so you'll want to stick to listed recipes as closely as possible.
Bullet substitutions. Hard cast lead bullets of the same weight can be considered interchangeable between brands as long as they feature a matching profile such as Lead Round Nose, Wad Cutter, or Semi Wad cutter. However you cannot swap between profiles, using a Wad Cutter for a LRN recipe is asking for problems or unexpected spikes in pressure. FMJ bullets are also interchangeable as long as the profiles and weights match. Note FMJ may be either Plated or Poured in Jacket and this really doesn't matter, the drag produced in the bore will be the same and most plated bullets have plating as thick as the jackets for poured in jacket bullets.
Finally, as a rule you will want to use loads that are roughly 1/2 way between the maximum and minimum for most of your practice loads. This will allow a "reserve" for variations in the powder charge and for minor variations in the bullet profile or seating depth. If or when you want/need a maximum energy load you want to work up to that power level carefully and once you have a good recipe established take the time to hand weigh the powder charge for every single cartridge for at least 50 rounds. I would also suggest you write every one down and do NOT throw out the "flyers". Statistically powder charges thrown will fall into a bell curve and those "flyers" are the ones at each end of that bell curve.
