Wanting to get into reloading 38 SPL.

[otisrush]

I found a thread from a few years ago that addressed the dipper/scale question.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/318545-how-many-use-lee-dippers-instead-scale.html

 

[g17]

I'll admit when I first seen this I had no idea of what you were taking about. A quick search on MidwayUSA gave better idea. Other then the actually powder, shells, and bullets, would this be all I needed other then maybe a loading book to get started?

Yes, all you need are the components for the ammo and load data and you're well set to load 38 spl or 357 mag.

 

[joeintexas]

Please do not omit a scale, any scale but get one. I am so paranoid about powder weight that I use two of them to check and double check my powder. The Hornady LocknLoad and RCBS 505, if either one of them do not match the others load I recalculate both of them. My fingers and my handguns are worth more to me than the price of the scales. Overkill? Maybe. You really only have 4 phsical components in a completed bullet, brass, primer, powder and bullet. For each piece of equiptment used to load each component buy the best you can individually afford. Be safe and have fun doing it, you can make some amazing ammo cheaply.

 

[P-229]

GA_Sheepdog,

If you shoot at a local range, try to become friends with hand loaders. Hopefully, they'll invite you over for hands on loading. If you actually load a few rounds, you'll know whether it's a hobby for you. It is a great hobby. My guess is you'll become a hand loader.

If you get in to hand loading, check the used market for presses and other stuff you'll need.

I have a 30 year old RCBS Rock Chucker single stage press. It was intended for big game hunting cartridges. However, I do load handgun cartridges. If I were to load thousands of rounds a month, I'd by a Dillon multi-station press.

I have an RCSB Chargemaster electronic scale. It makes loading a lot easier when loading maximum rifle loads. It's more than precise enough. When I load .38 Special ammo, which is a very easy cartridge to load, I use an RCBS Uniflow powder measure. I load handgun only for target shooting, so I'm at the low end of the power continuum. A tenth or two of a grain one way or the other won't matter when loading at the low end. But some powders such as Titegroup will throw consistent charges out of a Uniflow. I do check about every 5th case to assure it's darn close. Other powders such as Power Pistol also throw consistent chargers. Unique, which used to be my favorite handgun powder because of its wide applicability, is flake powder and is not conducive to powder measures.

I do plan to load a few hundred 180 grain .357 Mag rounds for black bear defense. When I get around to loading these, I'll measure every powder charge. When I'm done, I'll have enough to last the rest of my life.

I'd start researching powders now. I really like Titegroup. I hate to write this because it can be interpreted as .45 ACP heresy: I think Titegroup is better than Bullseye for the .45 ACP & .38 Special cartridges. It seems as though that competitive shooters have moved to Titegroup. I used ~3 grains of Titegroup with 158 grain lead bullets. It's an excellent and accurate load for target shooting. Anyway, look for appropriate powders that throw consistent changes from a powder thrower.

Best of luck and have fun.

 

[MyDads38]

HAHA!!! I just now realized that!


I'm still going to have to research about why exactly I need a scale or what to do with it. I've spent a couple hours today watching YouTube video's of people using the basic lee loader. All they did with the powder was use the little yellow scoop and scoop some powder and put it in the cartage.

I started out over 35 years ago with the Lee Loader kit and still use them on ocassion. I have one for every caliber I own. It's a good way to get into reloading for not much money. Down side is they are a little slow, but they produce excellent ammo. IMO, there are very few GOOD videos on YouTube showing the correct use of these loading kits, there are detailed instructions that come with the kit.

If you can afford a press loading kit and have the room and a bench, that is a good place to start at around $200 with a Lee loading kit. Lots of good choices for powder and bullets, depends what is available in your area. Can help with any questions if you want to PM me. Have fun and let us know what you choose.

 

[kbm6893]

Thank you everyone for the great advice. Right now I got it in my head that the basic Lee Loader is the best for me to start out with. A couple more questions.

Some have mentioned it would be good to get a scale. If I had the little spoon that comes with the kit, what would the scale be for?

Also I use 158gr, lead semi-wadcutter's as my carry ammo. I'd like to also use these same bullets for my reloads. Does anyone have any advise on bullets, primer's and powder to buy?

Get a scale. The RCBS model is what I have. The 505 I think? Beam scales are much better than digital. The digital scale I got with my hornady kit would fluctuate .2 grains up or down nearly every time. I batch load, meaning I do every stage in batches. So I'll tumble 300 cases, then size 300 cases, then expand 300 cases, then prime them with a priming tool while watching tv. Not 300 at once, obviously. When they're primed they go in a bin under my bench, so whenever he mood strikes, I'll load 50 rounds and dump the rounds into my ammo cans. I weigh EVERY charge. Overkill, maybe. But my fingers and guns are worth a little more time. Unless you're looking for heavy volume, I would stay away from a progressive press. Easier to screw something up, especially if you're a newby. 2 years into reloading and I consider myself a newby still.

I use the lead bullets from Missouri Bullet Comlany, but my next batch will be the plated 158 SWC from Xtreme bullets, simply because they usually have free shipping and it makes cleaning up a bit easier.

When I started, I used Red Dot powder because thst was all they had during the shortage. I loaded over 2200 rounds of 38 with one pound of thst powder.

I just switched to HP38, because it meters much better. Dead on every time, in fact. Red dot wasn't very consistent. And HP38 can also be used for 9MM, so it makes it easier to only have one powder.

I don't care if you only shoot 100 rounds a month. Reloading will still save you money. It will just take you longer to recoup your money. And for me, it's not just saving money that makes reloading worth it. It's not being s slave to the next panic, and there's always a next panic. After Newtown, there was no ammo anywhere near me. Now I don't worry.

 

[Clovishound]

I would recommend a decent single stage press. If you get started reloading, you will probably continue with it. Good SS presses can be had for a little over $100 brand new. I wold avoid the aluminum presses, as usually the linkage is not as robust. A solid SS press will last a lifetime, and most reloaders that move on to turret or progressives keep their SS press for a variety of different uses.

Used is great, if you can find what you want. I tried the Lee hand loader, not the whack a mole. I works and is a great way to get started, but I wanted a bench mounted press very, very quickly.

 

[pittpa]

I'm sure dipping a scoop is great for practice rounds in a snub. EDIT For Bullseye matches, I need consistent loads and to be able to tailor the recipe for the round to my gun as well. END EDIT I use a progressive press and the powders I use meter very accurately. I've used a manual beam scale from day one, almost 25 years ago. I bought a Dillon square deal progressive for my 38 sp because that's what my friend had and demonstrated for me. I still use it and have a second for 45. also have a $25 electronic scale that is dead on accurate and repeatable, but I verify with my beam scale once I get my powder measure set. That said, I recently saw a Lee Pro 1000 press that looks nifty for under $200. And a tumbler. Nothing fancy, and media is from the pet store. A cap of mineral spirits and some synthetic car wax and your brass is clean and shiny. You can reload 38 brass almost indefinitely so I don't factor brass cost into the equation. And you can get over 2000 rounds out of a pound of powder. Reloading is very satisfying. Some choose not to do it because they don't feel the time is worth the savings. I pick up their once-fired brass at the range. I grabbed 450 9mm brass last week that a group of 3 people left behind. It is a good feeling to have the components available and not be subject to the vagaries of buying what happens to be available. I was in east St Louis last November when the verdict was announced. Walmart, at the behest of local officials, had pulled all ammo from the shelves. "public safety" or their version of it, trumped the second amendment once again.


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[Fishslayer]

Some have mentioned it would be good to get a scale. If I had the little spoon that comes with the kit, what would the scale be for?

A scale is essential for safe reloading. The little powder scoops (and Lee's Disc measure) come with a spreadsheet. These are merely for getting into the ball park. Powders vary in density from lot to lot and even with changes in ambient conditions like temp & humidity.

 

[snubbert]

Many say reloading isn't worth it if you don't shoot a lot because you won't save much money. But keep in mind that's assuming the goal is to reduce the cost per round. A worthy goal of course, but for some (like myself) reloading is enjoying the process of making a cartridge.

 

[GA_Sheepdog]

I'm sure dipping a scoop is great for practice rounds in a snub. EDIT For Bullseye matches, I need consistent loads and to be able to tailor the recipe for the round to my gun as well. END EDIT I use a progressive press and the powders I use meter very accurately. I've used a manual beam scale from day one, almost 25 years ago. I bought a Dillon square deal progressive for my 38 sp because that's what my friend had and demonstrated for me. I still use it and have a second for 45. also have a $25 electronic scale that is dead on accurate and repeatable, but I verify with my beam scale once I get my powder measure set. That said, I recently saw a Lee Pro 1000 press that looks nifty for under $200. And a tumbler. Nothing fancy, and media is from the pet store. A cap of mineral spirits and some synthetic car wax and your brass is clean and shiny. You can reload 38 brass almost indefinitely so I don't factor brass cost into the equation. And you can get over 2000 rounds out of a pound of powder. Reloading is very satisfying. Some choose not to do it because they don't feel the time is worth the savings. I pick up their once-fired brass at the range. I grabbed 450 9mm brass last week that a group of 3 people left behind. It is a good feeling to have the components available and not be subject to the vagaries of buying what happens to be available. I was in east St Louis last November when the verdict was announced. Walmart, at the behest of local officials, had pulled all ammo from the shelves. "public safety" or their version of it, trumped the second amendment once again.


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I've looked at the Lee Pro 1000 Progressive Press Kit 38 Special, they can be had for about $180.00. It's not a bad deal for all it comes with. It's still a heck of a lot more expensive then the little Lee Loader for $28.00, but I'm sure you could crank out a lot more rounds per hour with the Lee Pro 1000 though.

Other then a scale and components, would this kit include everything I'd need to start reloading? It does say it does not come with a turret.


Lee Pro 1000 Progressive Press Kit 38 Special 357 Mag

 

[Biggfoot44]

The Old School , beat with a hammer, Original LEE Loader kit in a box does work, and is capable of making very accurate ammunition. And ancestral nostalgia. And the spiritual descendent of the Lyman 310 for disapearing into the wilderness with just a backpack. BUT they are slow, really slow.

What I * think * will suit you well, is along the lines of 1410's suggestion, the LEE Hand Press. Not quite as co.pact as the Whack A Mole kit, but still fit into a shoebox ( bootbox if you have small feet.) Still reasonable investment to get started. Doesn't require dedicated bench space. The hand press will remain useful even if you later upgrade press.

The good news about the dippers is that if you pay attention to the subtleties of your technique, you can throw consistant charges. The bad news is due to variations in people's technique, and lot to lot variation on powder, the charge weight can vary from what's expected. ( Not saying inconsistant, saying if the chart says 4.5gr of particular powder, you might be getting 4.3gr from your specific can of powder.) The medium news is Richard Lee's data is usually conservative, in that heavy handed dipping with a dense lot of powder will still be safe. Flip side is average technique with average lot of powder will be a little light.

*This* is where the scale potentially comes in. Verify exact weight of your can of powder, dipped by your hands. If that weight is useful for you, you can then use of the dippers for actual loading. Do purchase the complete dipper set instead of depending on the single dipper with a die set.

Used this way, cheapest on sale digital scale will suffice.

Two loading blocks will be handier than one, which in turn is handier than none. If you decide to stick with reloading, you will end up wanting a tumbler, though not manditory to start.

500Rd box of bullets. 158Gr unless you have strong feelings for somthing else on purpose. Cast sized to .358 or .359, or plated if prefered or required by your local shooting venue. I like Oregon Trail and Berry's respectively. Other brands also popular. Small Pistol standard primers. If you can find them, and the seller doesn't have a limit, go ahead and nust get a brick of 1000.

80% of experienced hand loaders will recomend 231, Unique or both. That means in times of shortage/ panic they are in high demand and short supply. In a pinch, any fast to medium pistol or shotshell powder will work in .38spl, albeit some will have more published data easily available.

 

[normanlclark]

Strictly for what it's worth here; I am no expert, but this is what works for me. Attitude is part of it.

I started reloading in 1963 with a RCBS Rock Chucker Kit. I am now using a Lee turret press, which I have no problems with. I load .32, .38, .44, .45 and .223. I use only published and proven loads. I look at every finished cartridge as a signed work of art, and the time I spend reloading is both mental and physical therapy. -well, I can think of one thing I'd rather be doing than reloading, but I'm never in a hurry, and don't keep a log of my time spent. I visually inspect and weigh every charge. After each batch, I again weigh and inspect every finished cartridge realizing that brass and primers may not be uniform, but it will warn me of a possible double charge or a missed charge.

 

[MyDads38]

MidwayUSA - Shop Shooting, Hunting, & Outdoor Products just posted a sale on the RCBS 5 0 2 powder scale @ $29.99. You might browse through the site and see if you come up with any other reloading equipment to get you started.

 

[pittpa]

I've looked at the Lee Pro 1000 Progressive Press Kit 38 Special, they can be had for about $180.00. It's not a bad deal for all it comes with. It's still a heck of a lot more expensive then the little Lee Loader for $28.00, but I'm sure you could crank out a lot more rounds per hour with the Lee Pro 1000 though.

Other then a scale and components, would this kit include everything I'd need to start reloading? It does say it does not come with a turret.


Lee Pro 1000 Progressive Press Kit 38 Special 357 Mag

Amazon has a lot of answered questions from users on that press.

 

[GA_Sheepdog]

I think my best option would be to just get a Lee single stage press and the needed gear to go along with it. I've looked at purchasing the lee single stage press and selecting the needed gear of my own choosing. I've also looked at the Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit and a set of die's. Both come out to roughly about the same price ($180.00), although I went with a digital scale when I was selecting my own options.

 

[Clovishound]

I would again recommend looking at the classic cast press. It is about $35 more than the aluminum. It is a far more robust press IMO. We are talking the cost of a brick of primers here.

I have the classic turret press. My buddy has the challenger series turret. I am a cheap skate. I am really glad I opted for the more robust press.

You may move on down the road to a turret, or progressive. I'm betting the single stage will stay on your bench, and continue to be useful. If you don't move on, it will still be on your bench for a long time to come. Get the heavy duty model.

Just my opinion.

 

[kbm6893]

Saving 50 bucks for something you're gonna pass down to your grandkids never seemed smart to me. I use Lee dies. I know they're OK so I'm not bashing the brand, but working the handle on a Lee press be an RCBS, Dillon, or Hornady, just says it all. You can't put a price on quality.

 

[GA_Sheepdog]

I would again recommend looking at the classic cast press. It is about $35 more than the aluminum. It is a far more robust press IMO. We are talking the cost of a brick of primers here.

I have the classic turret press. My buddy has the challenger series turret. I am a cheap skate. I am really glad I opted for the more robust press.

You may move on down the road to a turret, or progressive. I'm betting the single stage will stay on your bench, and continue to be useful. If you don't move on, it will still be on your bench for a long time to come. Get the heavy duty model.

Just my opinion.

I see what you're saying with the classic cast being more durable and lasting a lot longer. The Lee Challenger single press can be had for about $130. The Lee Classic Cast Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit, is going for $239. and then you have to by a 4 die set for around $30 to $40.

 

[pittpa]

I watched a video of the Lee pocket loader, and the hand loader, after my only exposure being to Dillon progressive presses all these years. I was impressed.