Rocksprings
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Is it OK to use WD40 on your weapons ?
WD40
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It's probably good first aid if your weapon gets wet, but there are better products for lubrication or long-term rust prevention. Of course, you should unload your weapon before using it, so that you are not spraying it on the primers.
For long-term preservation, I prefer RIG. For lubrication, I prefer very sparing use of RIG +P Stainless Steel lube on high-pressure locations, any decent gun oil, probably CLP, elsewhere. However, there are many other well-founded opinions, particularly on lubrication.
For long-term preservation, I prefer RIG. For lubrication, I prefer very sparing use of RIG +P Stainless Steel lube on high-pressure locations, any decent gun oil, probably CLP, elsewhere. However, there are many other well-founded opinions, particularly on lubrication.
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I use Hoppes No 9 as a solvent where appropriate and Break Free CLP for lube, and for solvent in those instances when Hoppes No 9 should not be used.
WD-40 attracts dirt and gets gummy. OK to wipe the outside of a gun with, however Break Free, Weapons Shield, and many other newer formulas are much better for firearm mechanisms. Even synthetic 0W20 motor oil is better than the good old WD.
Watchdog
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I've used it for what seems like forever. It lubricates and protects. It is also fairly inexpensive compared to all the "miracle" gun products. It certainly won't harm your gun.
Plus, it has the second best smell in the industry (Hoppe's is #1 in the smell department).
varmint243
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I use WD-40 for washing out crud.
I use Wal-Mart 10w30 synthetic for lubrication (so I get good performance in winter and summer)
I have been using WD-40 for cleaning since the mid-90's. There was a thread back when on rec.guns about how using WD-40 on your guns would cause them to stress crack. Knowing that was complete urban myth BS I started using WD-40 for cleaning crud off my guns and never looked back. For a brief time I used brake cleaner but that stripped the metal too raw and I would have to follow up with WD. I finally just stopped using the brake cleaner and used just the WD with some follow up drops of oil in the proper places. Now I use the Wal-Mart branded WD because nothing is too good for my guns.
It should be amusing to see all the people who post saying there guns were completely destroyed by being touched by a single drop of WD-40. Heck if you use WD-40 on some stainless it will stress crack and turn to a pile dust by the time you go to get it out of the safe again. In order to keep your guns safe from the destructive effects of WD-40 you should make sure your firearms are never in the same room with a can of WD.
And remember, never let anything touch your firearms that hasn't been properly rebranded by a gun products company.
While were at it, maybe if we work really hard we can resurrect the argument as to whether top posting or bottom posting is proper netiquette and that you are a noob if you do the wrong one.
I use Wal-Mart 10w30 synthetic for lubrication (so I get good performance in winter and summer)
I have been using WD-40 for cleaning since the mid-90's. There was a thread back when on rec.guns about how using WD-40 on your guns would cause them to stress crack. Knowing that was complete urban myth BS I started using WD-40 for cleaning crud off my guns and never looked back. For a brief time I used brake cleaner but that stripped the metal too raw and I would have to follow up with WD. I finally just stopped using the brake cleaner and used just the WD with some follow up drops of oil in the proper places. Now I use the Wal-Mart branded WD because nothing is too good for my guns.
It should be amusing to see all the people who post saying there guns were completely destroyed by being touched by a single drop of WD-40. Heck if you use WD-40 on some stainless it will stress crack and turn to a pile dust by the time you go to get it out of the safe again. In order to keep your guns safe from the destructive effects of WD-40 you should make sure your firearms are never in the same room with a can of WD.
And remember, never let anything touch your firearms that hasn't been properly rebranded by a gun products company.
While were at it, maybe if we work really hard we can resurrect the argument as to whether top posting or bottom posting is proper netiquette and that you are a noob if you do the wrong one.
tlay
US Veteran
Whatever you do, do NOT use WD40 on guns that have been reblued. It can remove some of the bluing especially if any cold bluing was used.
Back in 1980/81 I worked at an aerosol plant in Houston Texas that made WD40. Some of the chemicals used in it would remove paint! It made a great insect killer!
Also don't use it on items that have an O-ring. It will swell them up.
Back in 1980/81 I worked at an aerosol plant in Houston Texas that made WD40. Some of the chemicals used in it would remove paint! It made a great insect killer!
Also don't use it on items that have an O-ring. It will swell them up.
pineappleshooter
US Veteran
It's like the windex in the movie "My big, fat Greek wedding" - it's good for anything. If it doesn't work - 3 in 1 oil will - gotta be true - my Great Grandpappy told me so!
Hill_Country
Member
WD40 will attract dirt, crud, bacteria, and lots of rumors. However, I've been using it in moderation for 30+ years and haven't had any of these problems.
Way back when, I carried an M36 in an ankle holster, in my boot, and in South Texas. It may have been the extreme humidity or just the smell of my feet, but I couldn't go 24 hours without rust forming. Nothing worked until I soaked a little piece of chamois in WD40 and used it for a quick wipe down every night. The gun got cleaned regularly so there was no chance of it building up, but it has worked well for me for a long time.
Way back when, I carried an M36 in an ankle holster, in my boot, and in South Texas. It may have been the extreme humidity or just the smell of my feet, but I couldn't go 24 hours without rust forming. Nothing worked until I soaked a little piece of chamois in WD40 and used it for a quick wipe down every night. The gun got cleaned regularly so there was no chance of it building up, but it has worked well for me for a long time.
WD40 should not be used on an area of the gun that can't be wiped, and it is not a substitute for lubrication. Left to build up, it forms a varnish-like residue.
WD stands for "water displacing" and it works well as a cleaner and water displacer. On some things, it works TOO WELL as a cleaner and solvent.
There are dozens of better lubricants for guns.
WD stands for "water displacing" and it works well as a cleaner and water displacer. On some things, it works TOO WELL as a cleaner and solvent.
There are dozens of better lubricants for guns.
WaMike
Member
As have all of us, I've used WD-40 for years (here in these parts, it's a popular spray on salmon lures. No one knows why; supposedly, one of the secret ingredients is fish oil. Nonetheless, no self respecting salmon fishing boat is without a can or two.)
It's also useful for spraying on primers to make them inert (silicon will do the same). So I've always been reluctant to use on my firearms, thinking that in some mysterious way, WD-40 will weep its way into my cartridges and make them ineffective.
Thus are urban myths created.....
It's also useful for spraying on primers to make them inert (silicon will do the same). So I've always been reluctant to use on my firearms, thinking that in some mysterious way, WD-40 will weep its way into my cartridges and make them ineffective.
Thus are urban myths created.....
Yep, fish oil:
What is the main ingredient of wd-40? | Penetrating Oils/Cleaners/Solvents | Bob Is The Oil Guy
Or not?
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
What I've seen first hand is that if you have used a good lube, like CLP or other gun lube, and then spray WD40 into the innards to get rid of moisture, the result is something that looks like whale snot.
(I'd say gorilla snot, but not on this forum, ya' know?
)
===================================
ETA- I avoid it's use on firearms for same reasons as WAMike- I know it can kill primers, and it's a good perpetrator. So, why chance it? I will use it for water displacement if need be, but that's then followed by brakleen and CLP. ymmv.
What is the main ingredient of wd-40? | Penetrating Oils/Cleaners/Solvents | Bob Is The Oil Guy
Or not?
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
What I've seen first hand is that if you have used a good lube, like CLP or other gun lube, and then spray WD40 into the innards to get rid of moisture, the result is something that looks like whale snot.
(I'd say gorilla snot, but not on this forum, ya' know?
)===================================
ETA- I avoid it's use on firearms for same reasons as WAMike- I know it can kill primers, and it's a good perpetrator. So, why chance it? I will use it for water displacement if need be, but that's then followed by brakleen and CLP. ymmv.
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oberon
Member
I have a gallon can of the stuff in the shop.
Old timers use it on arthritic knees.
Cleans, lubes a little, and displaces moisture.
It is a dielectric solvent, and will clean oxidation from electrical connections.
My regular go to lube is Ballistol.
Old timers use it on arthritic knees.
Cleans, lubes a little, and displaces moisture.
It is a dielectric solvent, and will clean oxidation from electrical connections.
My regular go to lube is Ballistol.
model70hunter
Member
It may be good for many things but not for my guns. I buy it and use it for nuts and bolts only.
When younger I used to repair electronics items for Pawn shops that failed to work when they came out of pawn. I traded into a full choke Model 12 Winchester and was looking for a 2nd BBL to convert to Cylinder bore.
I inquired at all the gun shops and asked at every pawn shop. One Pawn shop gent said I have a BBL in the back. It's yours free. I took it apart and was going to put the pieces in the trash. He brought it out, dang, it was a Model 1200 vented rib one. I told him it won't fit. He said it's yours. He then said you can have the rest too. He firmly believed the gun was bad.
He brought out the other 1/2. I looked at it, the action was gummed up severe with dried out oil and had had so much lint it looked like fiberglass matting. I told him I could fix it. He said no, the guy claimed he never shot it but sprayed it down with WD 40 and kept it in the closet. I took it in on trade and now the action barely works. He insisted and I took it for free. I used alcohol to clean it, used break free for lube and it was slicker than a new one.
I have seen it gum up the works, I will not use it. All guns need wiped clean and lube kept to a minimum but for me it is REm oil, Break free and several others that are marketed for guns.
When younger I used to repair electronics items for Pawn shops that failed to work when they came out of pawn. I traded into a full choke Model 12 Winchester and was looking for a 2nd BBL to convert to Cylinder bore.
I inquired at all the gun shops and asked at every pawn shop. One Pawn shop gent said I have a BBL in the back. It's yours free. I took it apart and was going to put the pieces in the trash. He brought it out, dang, it was a Model 1200 vented rib one. I told him it won't fit. He said it's yours. He then said you can have the rest too. He firmly believed the gun was bad.
He brought out the other 1/2. I looked at it, the action was gummed up severe with dried out oil and had had so much lint it looked like fiberglass matting. I told him I could fix it. He said no, the guy claimed he never shot it but sprayed it down with WD 40 and kept it in the closet. I took it in on trade and now the action barely works. He insisted and I took it for free. I used alcohol to clean it, used break free for lube and it was slicker than a new one.
I have seen it gum up the works, I will not use it. All guns need wiped clean and lube kept to a minimum but for me it is REm oil, Break free and several others that are marketed for guns.
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At one time WD-40 was not recommended to be use on colt Pythons because something in the mix caused the high luster blue to cloud.
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There are two great chores I use WD-40 for. One is to clean Tar and road dirt off of things like car wheels, machine parts, and garage door tracks - etc.
The other is to clean the finger prints off the Stainless Steel Kitchen Appliances along with a Micro-Fiber rag. It's the best appliance cleaner I have tried for stainless.
I do not use WD-40 on any Firearms or on anything I want to stay lubricated or protected. In my personal opinion WD-40 is best used as a cleaning agent - that's it.
The other is to clean the finger prints off the Stainless Steel Kitchen Appliances along with a Micro-Fiber rag. It's the best appliance cleaner I have tried for stainless.
I do not use WD-40 on any Firearms or on anything I want to stay lubricated or protected. In my personal opinion WD-40 is best used as a cleaning agent - that's it.
If I can find it I remember reading an article back in the 70's that the Illinois State Police used that product on their S&W model 39's and also had problems with the firearm afterward.
You would not believe the horror stories I've heard about WD-40 from instructors, gun "experts" etc. you would think you were spraying sulphuric acid on your gun. I've been using that stuff for 30 years and it works fine. I suspect most of those horror stories were started by salesmen pushing their product that cost 3 times as much and doesn't realy do that much more.
chaparrito
Member
On my stainless 1911, if I am out of carb cleaner I substitute WD40. I break down and then hose down everything with it, scrub well, hose down some more and then blast it all out with an air compressor. Then lubricate. Obviously I do this outside. Messy messy. It's a good cleaner, not a lube.
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