Well that was a mistake (I-frame .32)

ScottJ

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Posted about this one a few days ago: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/196099-impulse-buy-just-couldnt-resist.html

Went down to get it today. It was rough like the seller described. I didn't check it closely in the store because I'm not a back out of the deal kind of guy. And he might not really know his revolvers that well.

Tons of endshake. I haven't measured with a feeler but at full lockup I can move the cylinder gap from business card to credit card. Also plenty of rotational and even some radial play relative to the yoke.

It has some timing issues. In DA the chambers line up visually but with single you have to index it to the stop manually.

But worst of all I discovered what I think to be a bulge in the barrel. I've never actually seen one before. Not sure if it shows up in the pictures.

I don't mind a project and was hoping to still have some range time with it while I got it back in shape but with the barrel I'm just not sure what do do with it now. Is it even safe to shoot?

One interesting thing about it: I wasn't expecting it to be so much smaller than my K frame.

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Where are we looking for the bulge??? I don't see it...

I thought center pic above "MASS" but not sure...
 
Yes, right there around "Mass" on the copyright.

By feel I find a sort of double-bump starting right where the cut is for the ejector knob and ending about the middle of the front latch.

But looking down the bore with a bright light I don't see a ring all the way around in the rifling.
 
Don't believe in the bulge unless you can see evidence of it in the bore. I-frames tend to have a "waist" in the barrel centered over the ejector rod. If you close your eyes and run the barrel through thumb and forefinger, you will feel the flair. It's almost like a very subtle Coke bottle.

A good interior cleaning may help with the timing. If the end shake is more than you can tolerate, drop in an endshake bearing or two.

That's not a "look at me" gun, but it doesn't look like a disaster either.

I frames are definitely small guns compared to Ks and Ns. Be careful how you hold them or even with the light recoil you can rap your middle finger knuckle painfully.
 
Don't believe in the bulge unless you can see evidence of it in the bore. I-frames tend to have a "waist" in the barrel centered over the ejector rod. If you close your eyes and run the barrel through thumb and forefinger, you will feel the flair. It's almost like a very subtle Coke bottle.

Coke bottle at the ejector cut. That describes it almost exactly.

Thanks for the glimmer of hope.

Realized on the way home today I don't even have a .32 brush.

All the other issues I can deal with. Bad barrel would dissapoint me greatly.
 
Unless I'm mistaken (and please correct me if I'm wrong), the photo of the bore from the other thread shows a distinct ring present.

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Unless I'm mistaken (and please correct me if I'm wrong) but the photo of the bore from the other thread shows a distinct ring inside the barrel.

When I saw that I thought it was crud back at the forcing cone.

I'll have to get it clean and run my fiber optic light down there.

The only suspect spot I was able to see putting a 120 lumen LED in the cylinder window was a spot at around 7 o'clock even with the "waist" I feel in the barrel.
 
I'm sorry that it didn't turn out better. I've bought a bunch of stuff off Gunbroker that ended up a lot better than I thought they would be. I've also ended up with some things that were worse. I'm way ahead but it's alsways disappointing to get a lemon. I would guess a .32 Long with a ring is a lot better than a .357 with a ring. Good luck with you new project.
 
By the way, if you have a .30 cal bore brush, it'll work. Same size brush.......
 
Scott, from the photos it looks as though someone has used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to polish the exterior or is it just the photo?

Rod
 
Scott, from the photos it looks as though someone has used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to polish the exterior or is it just the photo?

Looks like that. Or bead blasted at some point. I'm thinking of trying parkerizing it.

I also missed in the original auction pics that the top strap has taken some seriously hard whacks on the right side.

The front sight is also twisted a bit. Almost like someone grabbed it with a pair of plires and tried to twist it off. But it might also be a point of aim correction someone applied in the past. Won't know until I shoot it.
 
All is not lost.

Clean it
Washers for endshake
Check for timing after cleaning and it may need a little tweaking.
Shoot it even if there is a ring in the bore. It may surprise you. If not, get someone to reload some shot cartyridges for you and if you live any where with varmints, snakes'n & such, it makes a very effective close range getter. My sister in law keeps one in her pocket when she is outside on their place in the county and in the rural south we got them no shoulders everywhere and that little 32 dispatches them quickly and the finish is already gone so you can still get some use out of it and feel like you didn't make a bad deal.
 
Hmm, shot-shells. I don't think that Speer makes a capsule for .32 shot shells, so what would you use as a parent case for a shot-shell? Would need a little longer case in order to fit a load of shot over a card-wad then crimp over another card-wad. Anyone know for sure?
 
I've owned several revolvers with bulged barrels and surprisingly, all have shot just fine. Matter of fact, one was a .32 Long like yours.

As long as you aren't into it too deep, don't worry about it. They are fun little shooters.
 
Should you be loading ammo for it, after cleaning bore really well, suggest trying 0,314 HBWC from Speer and/or 0,314 SWC from Hornady, both with a powder that is slow for 32 Long. Both bullerts weigh about 95 grains. The soft, swaged HBWC turns lots of 32s into quite good shooting revolvers, at least to 25-30 meters. I load them to 750-800 fps, seated out almost to end of cylinder.

Niklas
 
Scott, there's one sure way to detect the very slightest of bulges, some of which you cannot see with a bore light. I've dealt with a few. I've got a super accurate Remington 24 semiauto rifle with a slight bulge caused by a .22 Short, hitting an obstruction in a barrel that heavy!

Use a bronze brush to get the worst of the crud out of the bore, if there is some. Then cut a cleaning rod patch that will be large enough to fit fairly snugly and moisten it with solvent or light oil. As you run it through, if there is even a slight bulge, you will feel it as the tight patch becomes not-so-tight and then hits regular bore diameter again. It's easy and foolproof. If you don't feel a bulge, there isn't one.

Unless the bulge is really pronounced, ignore it. It's safe to shoot, especially with a low intensity round like standard .32 S&W Long. And strangely (to my mind) the presumed gas leakage past the bullet doesn't seem to affect velocity noticeably.

The other problems can be dealt with, if you are so inclined. And I like to parkerize basket cases like this. They are still good revolvers, basically, and Smith did not build bad ones. You have a gun worth a little TLC, in my opinion. I have one in very nice shape with original factory nickel, and a couple more in poorer condition, about like yours. I parked one and made walnut grips for it.

My philosophy: If its a classical old Smith, can be saved, and the price is low, just buy it.
 
For what it's worth, my wife's M-17 .22 has a ringed/bulged barrel - shoots great. I also have a Walther PP .32ACP that has a ringed barrel - also shoots great, surprisingly accurate for such a small gun.
 
As long as you aren't into it too deep, don't worry about it. They are fun little shooters.

$129 and change tax and all out the door. So not too bad.

The main reason I bought it is because it's sort of a grandpappy to all my other S&W revolvers.

IMO, the 5th change is the start of the line.

I see it as a rescue.
 

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