Wet Stone

[wingriderz]

I know I have seen some threads on sharpening Now that I am retired I am going to get it a go . I have never been great with wet stone but those that do any advice would be great. I am sharpeing lock blades that pretty much stay in rear pocket. I don't use these for E D C chores. A case peanut or swiss rides in front pocket for that. The knives are Sogs, and few others. I am looking for tip wet stone wise thanks

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

I like the Lansky sharpening system for bigger stuff. For the smaller stuff I like soft Arkansas whet stones.....

 

[Ed Fowler]

A Norton India stone is as good as any, if you want something faster, get the crystalon - India combination stone. I am still using the Norton stone my grandfather gave me over 65 years ago.

 

[wingriderz]

Do you run the full length of stone . I guess I am looking for best method

 

[arjay]

I use a medium grit stone I got at the hardware store that I set in a block of wood with a routed depression to hold it in place.At one end is a block of wood I cut at 20° to set the angle the same for every pass.I follow that up with a pair of crock sticks and finish on a piece of leather glued to a strip of oak.Its really easy to get an arm shaving edge with that set up.

 

[Texas Star]

I think you mean whetstone, not wet stone, although most use them wet, with oil.

I find the usual commercial ones too soft for harder blades and a natural Soft Arkansas stone is better. A Hard Arkansas is mainly for surgical-like edges.

For routine maintenance, I much prefer ceramic rods. (Crocksticks)


Softer blades, like on Victorinox Swiss Army knives, will take a good edge from basic Crystalon or carborundum (sp?) hones.
I've found Wenger blades harder to sharpen.

 

[Ole Joe Clark]

I recently purchased a USA Buck that was pretty sharp when I received it. I touched it up on a 2" x 8" Norton India stone, then went to the same size Hard Arkansas. I am very careful with the open blade.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

 

[Triggernosis]

I'm known around work for having the sharpest knives. 99% of the time I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker to sharpen my blades, from my Case Peanuts to my full-size Buck 105.

 

[Ed Fowler]

Do you run the full length of stone . I guess I am looking for best method

I use the full length and width of the stone and can see no wear pattern on the surface of the stone. I lubricate it with simple green and wipe it clean after each use with a piece of old levies.

 

[Inusuit]

I use the full length and width of the stone and can see no wear pattern on the surface of the stone. I lubricate it with simple green and wipe it clean after each use with a piece of old levies.

Good answer. Using the full length/width will prevent uneven wear on the stone. You see many old ones with the center dished out from improper technique. And even though some are call "oil" stones, Ed is correct that simple green or even dish detergent will work fine. The function of oil or soap is to carry away the particles of stone and steel thus maintaining the abrasive quality of the stone.

 

[chief38]

My favorite sharpening method is using 3 different grits of Arkansas Stones (medium, hard, extra hard). I use them with honing oil and get razor sharp results. It took a while to master this method but it was well worth it!

I do have some of the fancy sharpening set ups but have only found them useful with knives of certain shapes and sizes and can now sharpen faster, sharper and more efficiently on the Arkansas Stones by hand.

My friends and neighbors are not shy about bringing over their kitchen knives, hunting knives and pocket knives but I enjoy it and it keeps me in good practice

 

[Model 19 6"]

I have an Arkansas stone use it with light oil.I think the 2" wide leather strap that I finish with is the key.

 

[Lostaro]

A good trick to improve your technique with any type stone is to mark the edges with a Sharpie pen before honing. You'll quickly see where the metal is being removed and you can adjust your angles/strokes accordingly.

Taught myself to get scary sharp broadhead blades that way.

For what it's worth... I like diamond hones to start out and finish with a quality hard stone. Stropping on leather will give a wicked final buff if so desired.

 

[steelslaver]

IMHO quality diamond "stones" beat stones. Never wear out or get dished. Wash with hot soap and water, Get a set that goes from course to fine. Then if you want to get hair topping sharp a Japanese water stone. Hair topping sharp is when it will cut the top off the hair of your arm without touching the skin. Only going to get there with very fine grained straight high carbon blades. I only use a hand stone whern I travel of go to camp, but most of my blades don't need touched up much.

Most important thing is to keep the exact same angle with each stroke.

Many of my "working" knives never see a stone. I have 2 belt grinders, both have heads that change out and run 3 phase motors and VFDs (varible speed drives) that convertt 22ov to 3phase and control the cycles. With the VFD I can turn thee belrtt speed way up or way down. With the speed set low and running a quality 600 grit belt and a slack belt heat and dunking the blade in water every pass I can quickly raise a feather on the edge (a small feather of steel right on the very edge running the entire length of the blade, Then I take it to a buffer wheel and buff holding my angle on the edge and polishing it. This will easily shave hair. An edge finer than that will only stay if you only cut mashed potatoes or the like anyway. LOL

Most of my hunting knives are made using quality D2. Clean my elk, my deer, my buddies elk and his dear and another couple and still easily slice the date off the tags.

You can buy a knife shaped object for $19.95 at Walmart. Good blades cost money. Just like guns.

 

[JayFramer]

It's actually "whet" stone.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

I final finish with this homemade leather strop..........

 

[Kinman]

When I was a kid if you didn't know how to use a whet-stone you were the guy that made the peanut butter sandwiches. I don't know about you guys but I probably wore more knives out by over-sharpening them that just through general use. My granddad gave me a palm sized whet-stone when I was about nine, he probably gave it to me because he had already worn it dished out from years of honing his axes. It was a beautiful thing, circular and about 3-4" across, maybe an inch thick on the edges, medium on one side, fine on the other. He showed me how to hone the edge of an axe or hatchet, told me to never let them get too dull but if necessary how to use a file to bring them back. I lost it in one of my moves, but still have quite of few of his other hand tools.

 

[Ed Fowler]

Where would we be without grandfathers?
Mine were great and taught me some of the greatest lessons!!!

 

[steelslaver]

My grandfather had one of those sandstone wheels that you pedaled and hung a pail of water over so it dripped on the wheel. Wish I had that now.

But, I do have his hand forges spurs,

 

[Goldstar225]

I've been sharpening my own knives since I was six. Soft and hard Arkansas whetstones with oil to keep particles suspended and avoid filling pores. I bought a lansky sharpener a few years ago. Used it a few times and went back to my whetstones. I also have a large coarse and medium grit stone that I only use to reset the angles on knives whose edge angles that have been screwed up.