What are the common improvements/upgrades for a M&P15

[Minnesota_Duane]

I've added a Houge pistol grip.
Vortex 1-6 strike eagle on a cantilever mount.
Fab Defense Pointing foregrip set.
I have a LaRue Tactical MBT-2S Trigger on intergalactic back order.
An ambidextrous safety.
Phase 5 15" low pro slope nose M-lok free float handguard/low profile gas block.
Warhammer mod 2 charge handle.
4.6oz H2 buffer,
A Tubbs flat wire buffer spring on order.
I'm leaning towards a .223 Wylde barrel and some form of muzzle brake, it has an unthreaded barrel now.
Anything else I should be looking at?

 

[03hemi]

This is the most common improvement. lol

 

[jbtrucker]

Ambi charging handle and GI sling is all I have maybe Optics later. Ordered AR Stoner Crucial parts kit .

 

[Bozz10mm]

I've added a Houge pistol grip.
Vortex 1-6 strike eagle on a cantilever mount.
Fab Defense Pointing foregrip set.
I have a LaRue Tactical MBT-2S Trigger on intergalactic back order.
An ambidextrous safety.
Phase 5 15" low pro slope nose M-lok free float handguard/low profile gas block.
Warhammer mod 2 charge handle.
4.6oz H2 buffer,
A Tubbs flat wire buffer spring on order.
I'm leaning towards a .223 Wylde barrel and some form of muzzle break, it has an unthreaded barrel now.
Anything else I should be looking at?

Sounds to me like you are all set.

 

[smithra_66]

I've added a Houge pistol grip.
Vortex 1-6 strike eagle on a cantilever mount.
Fab Defense Pointing foregrip set.
I have a LaRue Tactical MBT-2S Trigger on intergalactic back order.
An ambidextrous safety.
Phase 5 15" low pro slope nose M-lok free float handguard/low profile gas block.
Warhammer mod 2 charge handle.
4.6oz H2 buffer,
A Tubbs flat wire buffer spring on order.
I'm leaning towards a .223 Wylde barrel and some form of muzzle break, it has an unthreaded barrel now.
Anything else I should be looking at?

What do all these extra things get you? I've found that the stock AR M4 is pretty good as-is.

For example, do you think a "flat wire" buffer spring is going to improve the stock one?

Are you competing with it? Is there a reason to upgrade the trigger? Soldiers bet their lives on the stock trigger and many times aftermarket fire control accessories can make the gun less reliable.

Handguards are cool but how much are you going to hang off it? Pretty soon a lightweight M4 can turn into a behemoth.

Most of the time these endless accessories in the AR market do nothing for you but make your wallet lighter.

 

[mscampbell2734]

2,000 rounds of ammo, 10 mags and some range time and instruction. Seriously WAY too many people attach a bunch of **** to their ARs because they read/watch too many so called experts and think the thing will not work unless they spend twice as much to add stuff to it.

Shoot the thing and then figure out what it's doing or not doing that you want it to do. Then spend money to make it do what you want.

Only you can decide what's right for your use.

 

[rockquarry]

I won't argue accessorizing, but many seem to assume that what they refer to as "upgrades" are improvements. Some may really be improvements. Many are only changes and may even be "downgrades".

I've found an AR will work very well out-of-the-box, sometimes with the addition of a very plain but good quality scope sight with a crosswire duplex reticle - nothing illuminated and no batteries needed. However, an AR with only the furnished aperture sight is often capable of surprising results.

The attraction to ARs for many purchasers appears to be in the endless modifications that can be done to these guns with accuracy and the development of good shooting skills very secondary. While I'm not a big fan of YouTube where even the least qualified can be an expert, there may be a limited amount of good information available there.

I'm not criticizing the newschoolers and upgraders, just suggesting they consider giving these guns a fair evaluation as they come from the box. They generally work pretty well as is. If, after a few hundred rounds using good ammunition and good shooter skills, a gun doesn't perform well, then some accessories might be worthwhile. It's important to remember that at sale or trade time, most people would prefer unmodified guns rather than those adorned with gadgetry.

 

[waffles]

What do all these extra things get you? I've found that the stock AR M4 is pretty good as-is.

For example, do you think a "flat wire" buffer spring is going to improve the stock one?

Are you competing with it? Is there a reason to upgrade the trigger? Soldiers bet their lives on the stock trigger and many times aftermarket fire control accessories can make the gun less reliable.

Handguards are cool but how much are you going to hang off it? Pretty soon a lightweight M4 can turn into a behemoth.

Most of the time these endless accessories in the AR market do nothing for you but make your wallet lighter.

Many handguards (especially going all-in on free-floating) reduce weight compared to the standard plastic M4 style, and we're well into the time of MLOK and other rail-sparing attachment systems to mount a light or whatever, which truly is a good call if there's any chance of defensive use.

As for the trigger, a better trigger is absolutely a fantastic upgrade for most ARs. Soldiers may bet their lives to it, but that does not mean it's anywhere near the best option, it's just one that's reliable, cheap, agreed upon at the time of contract, and offers a slightly less chance of discharge when someone who is likely not a "gun person" (remember, you're not just talking about hardcore grizzled bearded trigger puller, you're talking about cooks, clerks, payroll, drivers, etc.) does something stupid with one.

 

[Minnesota_Duane]

So far this is reminding me of when I was 16 and I bought a 53 F100 with a flathead. I wanted a change and my dad was preaching keep it original. After blowing up the third flathead I put a 351 Cleveland and C-6 and a 9 inch in it. It got better mileage, would get out of it's own way, and was way smoother driving. I'm looking to address things that I feel need improvement. Mine is an optics ready so no sights, the handguards they come with aren't awesome,the trigger is garbage, yeah it fires the rifle that's all the good I can say about it. The ambidextrous safety is a preference as is the BAD lever. The charge handle is because of the scope being in the way, try getting to that with gloves on. The buffer and the spring are to help with it being over gassed. The Houge pistol grip and the forward grip are because I'm not laying on my gut with it laying on bags trying to hit paper at 300 feet. I'm standing trying to hit something running 30mph.

 

[Ruger Nut]

I've added a Houge pistol grip.
Vortex 1-6 strike eagle on a cantilever mount.
Fab Defense Pointing foregrip set.
I have a LaRue Tactical MBT-2S Trigger on intergalactic back order.
An ambidextrous safety.
Phase 5 15" low pro slope nose M-lok free float handguard/low profile gas block.
Warhammer mod 2 charge handle.
4.6oz H2 buffer,
A Tubbs flat wire buffer spring on order.
I'm leaning towards a .223 Wylde barrel and some form of muzzle brake, it has an unthreaded barrel now.
Anything else I should be looking at?

From what I'm seeing here, you bought the wrong AR. If you're going to strip the Sport II and make it a talking/showoff piece, you should have built one.
What I would add to it is more 30 rd. mags and ammo.
BTW, there is an AR website catering to upper class AR owners just like you.
Good luck!

 

[Velle]

I put a sling and a red dot on our Sport II. I put a scope on the Ruger. I'll probably put a sling on it too and maybe at some point a new trigger. The Sport II trigger is fine but the Ruger trigger sucks. Everything else works fine as is. No need to go buying a lot of **** it doesn't need.

 

[Minnesota_Duane]

From what I'm seeing here, you bought the wrong AR. If you're going to strip the Sport II and make it a talking/showoff piece, you should have built one.
What I would add to it is more 30 rd. mags and ammo.
BTW, there is an AR website catering to upper class AR owners just like you.
Good luck!

What exactly do you think makes my rifle "upper class" because I'm not seeing it?
Also mine is not a Sport, I didn't buy it, and anything I've done has been to fit a purpose.

 

[S-W4EVER]

I made a lot of mods to my M&P15 (Geissele trigger, H2 Buffer, BCM Gunfighter charging handle, Aimpoint PRO w/ Larue Tactical mount, & Larue Tactical Urban Dark Earth furniture) but I don’t understand why you’d replace the barrel. FWIW, the M&P15 is really good right out of the box and I have no plans to replace the barrel on mine.

 

[Minnesota_Duane]

What they want to thread it vs buying a .223 wylde barrel that is threaded makes the price about $100 more for a supposedly more accurate barrel.

 

[smithra_66]

What they want to thread it vs buying a .223 wylde barrel that is threaded makes the price about $100 more for a supposedly more accurate barrel.

You were probably better off just buying a bare lower and upper and building it.

Looks like you're replacing just about everything.

 

[BSA1]

What exactly do you think makes my rifle "upper class" because I'm not seeing it?
Also mine is not a Sport, I didn't buy it, and anything I've done has been to fit a purpose.

Is this a existing rifle that you are modifying or a new build?

If it is a existing rifle I would leave it in it’s stock condition as you are well on your way to have enough parts for a new build. You sound like the type of d-i-y person that likes to build things. For the record I have never had factory stock rifle.

As you have the expensive parts except the bcg I suggest you get a lower and upper receiver. I am a big believer in two is one which is why I am suggesting keeping your current AR in stock condition and building a AR to your personal tastes.

 

[Minnesota_Duane]

I've been adding as I go. I never wanted a "Plastic gun" but I took it on trade and found out I enjoy it quite a bit. I'd like to try doing an 80% lower, if that continues to be a possibility. If and when I do that, I'd transfer the parts to that and return this one to it's original configuration.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

What they want to thread it vs buying a .223 wylde barrel that is threaded makes the price about $100 more for a supposedly more accurate barrel.

The Wylde chamber is fantastic, as long as your ammo bullet weight, and rifling match. The heavier the bullet the faster the twist. Combine that with good hand loads that yield a 32,000 to 35,000 RPM and you get longer range accuracy that is unheard of with stock chambers! I have a friend that built bolt guns with Wylde chambers and wae getting 1 inch groups at 400 yards (1/4 MOA) with 75 grain A-Max.

Ivan

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

I bought a new AR three summers ago. I just could not get good groups with proven ammo! My best friend, had been a armorer in the Army, fired it and the first words from his mouth were, "Your trigger sucks!" I put a $70 4 pound aftermarket trigger on it and now get consistent 1" 200 yard groups with a scope (having old eyes stinks!) I also added pop-up open sights and a bi-pod adapter. Trying to keep the weight reasonable!

Ivan

 

[ken158]

Looks like you are taking your gun completely apart and building it back with every new part but the lower. I build my guns with the features I want, not what someone on the internet tells me I need...