What do the numbers mean?

[timbo813]

Hi guys, New member here. I'm wanting to get a 357 revolver and I thought this would be a good place to find some info about S&W's.

I'm looking for a good quality revolver in 357. Ideally, I would like to find a 5 inch but I know 4 is more common (6 is to long for me). I'm looking around at either a Ruger GP100 or some kind of S&W. One model that seems fairly common is the 686. I think S&W makes several other models that might fit my needs but I don't know much about them. Is there any sytem to the model numbers? (like does the 600 series mean something in particular) What other models should I keep my eyes open for?

This will be primarily a range gun but I would like to be able to carry it some when hiking and possibly even shoot a deer or two with it if my accuracy is sufficient.

Thanks for your help.

 

[qballwill]

There is a general method to the S&W model number madness.
For the most part, model numbers that start with a 6 are stainless steel.
For example model 60,65,66,686
Three digit Model numbers that start with a 3 are typically lightweight guns i.e. 340,342,386
The rest really just jump around. If it doesnt fall into one of the catagories above its is usually blued or nickel carbon steel.

My suggestion for a best all around 357 would be the model 686. They are built to handle many lifetimes of 357 magnum loads, they are accurate and just plain fun to shoot.

 

[sjmjax]

I found this site to be very helpful in understanding model and dash numbers.....

Smith & Wesson model changes

 

[kennyb]

welcome to the forum....i must agree,for your stated purpose,the model 686 will do very well...i have the 686 in 21/2",4",6"....they are certainly up to the task!

 

[HAWKEYE10]

Welcome to the forum. I agree a 686 would be a good choice. Don't be afraid to buy a used 686. There are lots of good ones out there for sale. Here is picture of my 686 with a 4" barrel. Don

 

[okie john]

Smith & Wesson has never done anything consistently with regard to model numbers and variations, but here are some rules of thumb:

The J-frame is the smallest. It’s chambered for 22, 32 and 38-caliber cartridges and is easy to conceal. With a few exceptions, nearly all J-frame guns have barrels 4 inches or shorter; most are 2 or 3 inches.

The K-Frame is larger and heavier than the J-frame. It’s a service-sized revolver, but is still fairly easy to conceal. It’s also chambered for 22, 32 and 38-caliber cartridges. Until recently it was the smallest frame on which you could get a 357 Magnum. Barrels run from 2 to 8 3/8 inches.

The L-frame is bigger than a K-frame. It’s usually found in 357. Some have been made have 7-shot cylinders. Barrels run from 2 to 8 3/8 inches.

The N-frame was the biggest for decades. It houses the 357, 41 and 44 Magnums, along with the 45 Colt and 45 ACP cartridges. Earlier versions were chambered in 38 Special. Barrels run from 2 to 8 3/8 inches.

The X-frame is the largest and newest frame in the Smith line. It’s built just for the 460 and 500 cartridges.

Once upon a time, S&W revolvers had two-digit model numbers. Most J-frame model numbers started with a 3, most K-frame model numbers started with a 1, and most N-frame model numbers started with a 2. When Smith started making guns out of stainless, the first digit in the model number became a 6. The L-frame came around in the 80s, and was the first three-digit model number. After that I lost track, and now I have to look them up.

Model numbers for autos follow a completely different system.

Hope this helps.


Okie John

 

[shawn mccarver]

When looking for recommendations about gun models, the first and most obvious question is, "What is its intended use?"

Many have hypothesized over the years that a 4 inch medium frame .357 Magnum is the best all-around revolver and will do many jobs well. The uses you describe are probably best filled by the S&W Model 686 with 4 to 6 inch barrel. It comes two ways: 6 shot is called 686 and 7 shot is called 686 Plus. Both are identical and the same size except for the number of charge holes. Some believe the Plus version has a stronger cylinder because the locking notches are cut between charge holes instead of over the thinnest part of the charge holes.

Thus, for the jobs you raise, my vote goes to a round butt, 4 inch, 686 Plus. It will do everything you have mentioned and will also do nicely as a self-defense revolver as well.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

Just one won't do you. The 686 is the one you want for sure.

 

[timbo813]

Thanks a lot guys. That is helpful.

Bullseye Smith, That bottom gun is one sexy revolver!

 

[fyimo]

I would also go with a 686 and if it's a range gun only then I'd get a 6 inch barrel just because I shoot them better then the 4 inch. If it's also going to be used for carry or home defense then I would get the 4 inch barrel.

I also like the N frame revolvers and a 4 inch model 28 is a great handgun and a true classic in S&W's lineup. The N frame really absorbs the recoil on full house 357 loads and is easy to shoot. One of my range guns is a 6 inch barreled model 28 and it's easier to shoot then my 6 inch 686.

Model 686 with 6 inch barrel

Model 28-2 with 6 inch barrel and a little heavier frame then the L frame 686

 

[tjg 77]

How do one read the ss# on semi autos ??