What Have You Done To Your S&W Lately?

easymoney72

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I polished the barrel hood on my CS9.

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Thats sharp looking.What you use?

I used sand paper. I started with 400 grit and worked my way up to 2000 grit, in this order: 400, 600, 1200, 1500, 2000. Then I used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish with Q tips.

I'm doing the same to my 6906 but it has more machining tool marks so I'm starting with 220 grit.
 
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This isn't my doing , but my s&w . This thing had seen better days , so it went straight to guzzitaco . He's done more than a few things for me , he's an artist !
 

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This isn't my doing , but my s&w . This thing had seen better days , so it went straight to guzzitaco . He's done more than a few things for me , he's an artist !

That gun is beautiful! Have you considered putting a 3rd gen safety lever on it? I never liked that screw in the 2nd Gen safety. It might require some fitting on the sear release lever. I've installed 3, and 2 out of 3 didn't require fitting. The 3rd one, I just installed the sear release lever from the gun that the safety came out of. If possible I would try to get a used safety lever and sear release lever from the same gun, then it shouldn't require fitting, you have to check the safety timing. There are places that sell parts kits from guns that were confiscated by police and the frames were destroyed. I got a set of parts for a 6906 for $150 on sale from everygunpart. It had almost every part except the frame. The barrel and slide are pristine. Here is a pic of my 459 with a 3rd gen safety. The safety isn't the only thing I've done to it. You can see in the pic that it also has a curved back strap and 3rd gen hammer.

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I think that I should have asked this question before I polished the barrel hood. Does anyone know if this polishing will effect accuracy? Because of looser tolerances or something. I only took the metal down enough to remove tooling marks from the machining process. I did not do anything to the chamber, ramp, or bore.
 
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Nothing so far. All of my Smith & Wesson are still factory stock. I kind of want to keep things that way but have seen some cool replacement stocks that have made me think about it.
 
Working on making the old 5906 police trade in rehab more "shootable". After some tedious and rather extensive hammer and sear work, and an added trigger overtravel stop, finally got the single action down to approx. 3.5 pounds.

It's still an M&P at heart though, and accuracy is, unfortunately, just mediocre.

It needs a magic wand, a new one-off barrel, and a Briley bushing. Where are the actual gunsmith's at the old, now defunct Performance Center when you need them? :D







Carter
 
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I've been getting complete "repair parts", (less frames,) and parts kits. If the grips look pristine everything else is too.

I don't really need more parts but if the price is low, condition is high, and if I have any conceivable use I'll get it. I like the fixed Novak's but most of my 2nd and 3rd Gens are adjustable.

Jim
 

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I've been getting complete "repair parts", (less frames,) and parts kits. If the grips look pristine everything else is too.

I don't really need more parts but if the price is low, condition is high, and if I have any conceivable use I'll get it. I like the fixed Novak's but most of my 2nd and 3rd Gens are adjustable.
Jim

I really like this idea, Jim. I've never really looked into what would be considered "reasonable " pricing for the average to above average parts kit.
As far as rear sights go, my preferences lean to the "winged" adjustable, closely followed by the LPA adjustable, then the Novaks.:cool:
 
My 639 FrankenSmith now has 3 complete slides. What have I done "to" it lately? Left it disassembled.,, with all 3 slides dismounted. I've just been neglecting it. "Forgive me Father, for I have sinned." :(
Froggie
 
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