What is going on with S&W?????

Pdxrealtor

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I just got back from zeroing in my red dot. Had a great time shooting the steel pigs 100 yards out once zeroed in!

150 rounds through the gun today, and maybe another 100 prior.

Got home, got out the Hoppes 9 and went to clean the cylinder holes. Instantly the cylinder changed color.

Not the rest of the gun, not the back of the cylinder, just the front and sides.

I then look down and see the cylinder retaining screw almost all the way out.

Any idea what the heck happened? Will be calling S&W first thing.

Unless this was a complete snafu on my part.... I'm done buying new S&W revolvers.

1100.00 327 TRR8
.12 B/C gap
. Cylinder finish came right off
. screws coming out after a small amount of rounds
. I've got 20 bucks that says the end shake is out of spec too. **Edit** End shake is .012. In other words the cylinder touches the barrel when pushed forward.
- Strain screw loose after 250 rounds

1000.00 686+ PC
Canted barrel
Front sight installed completely off center
Has a cylinder stop pin in the rebound slide. To quote S&W "it must have been put there by someone on graveyard half a sleep. We don't use those any more"
 

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I have no ideas about the color change, but as for screws and S&W revolvers, any one not old enough to have oil congealed and acting as Loctite, may or may not be prone to "self-disassembly". Something I've noticed since the 1980s! Have never been able to predict which screw it will be, either. Sideplate screws: pretty common. Cylinder latch retaining screw also. Mainspring screw less common, fortunately. And then there's the wee rear sight attaching screw (the one in front). That one is the worst as it can easily disappear. Have seen plenty of them loose over the years, usually in the used gun display cases at various LGSs.

I even got a good deal on a mid '90s used 657 once as it was missing the rear sight screw assembly altogether.

Loctite can be quite handy....

I shoot
 
Loose screws are just a part of life. Watch for them and tighten as needed. I have been shooting all makes of revolvers for 50 years. They all shoot screws loose for as long as I have been shooting them.
The color change beats me. Some sort of chemical reaction between the Hoppe's and powder residue is my guess but I sure don't know. Never experienced it.
 
Got home, got out the Hoppes 9 and went to clean the cylinder holes. Instantly the cylinder changed color.

Not the rest of the gun, not the back of the cylinder, just the front and sides.

This could be another case of S&W's modern bluing not being able to stand up to Hoppes #9. Something about the bluing process being changed and needing a gentler solvent. I'm sure someone with the information at their fingertips will come along and lay it all out for us.
 
If the idiots at S&W have now decided to make a GUN finish that won't stand up to Hoppes #9, they better get ready for one heck of a lot of warranty work. Hoppes #9 has been a staple of many cleaning benches for a loooong time, and some fine print in the back of an S&W instruction manual ain't gonna cut it...
 
What the **** is going on with S&W?????

What nedlate said.

This could be a chemical interaction (or reaction) between the ammonia in Hoppe's #9 (which I also use religiously) and the Performance Center finish. Hoppe's does have an "Elite" product line (which I also use on all of my nickel-plated revolvers) that does not have ammonia and will not damage these new finishes.

Perhaps Customer Service will have a recommendation regarding options for you to do that will correct the problem without having to return your revolver to "The Mother Ship". I certainly hope so.

From Page #32 - "CAUTION: Some cleaners can cause damage to your firearms. You should avoid prolonged solvent immersion and prolonged ultrasonic cleaning of your firearm. Choice of solvent should be restricted to those products specifically developed for firearms maintenance.
Damage to a firearm's finish may occur if these cautions are ignored. Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents, should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm. Cleaning is essential to ensure the proper functioning of your firearm."
 
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Yes this has been talked about on previous posts. It' a good idea to read the owners manual. S&W is not the only co. that is now suggesting to not use ammonia base cleaners. Times are a changing.
Also, Loctite can be used in a very small amount. It must be the BLUE Loctite ( medium hold) .
 
Loose screws are just a part of life.

Now ain't that the truth.
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Hardly a day goes by someone doesn't tell me I've got a screw loose.
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Loose screws are just a part of life. Watch for them and tighten as needed. I have been shooting all makes of revolvers for 50 years. They all shoot screws loose for as long as I have been shooting them.

Granted, but EVERY single time you shoot the revolver, the middle and rear sideplate screws loosen, and that's normal? Didn't use to happen.

Still can't stop buying my beloved J-frames.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
PDX, sorry can't help with the color change. As others have suggested screws do back out from time to time, just a fact of life. Before I re-tighten any screws, I put a drop of clear nail polish on the screw. This helps lock the screw in place.

Best of luck, and keep us posted as to what happens.
 
Sometimes the screws do shoot loose every time. I have figured out that if they are oily it makes it especially a problem. Degrease with alcohol and a very tiny dab of blue or purple Loctite will solve the problem.
 

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