doublesharp
Member
My Durango hemi is a great suv to tow with but my opinion of living in campers is pretty low. Campgrounds suck as a rule, the secluded spot by the lake is the adman's bs. Take the camper money and rent hotel rooms.
What is good SUV to pull nice camper for two
- Thread starter bushmaster1313
- Start date
Water is a big issue with campers and RV’s. Leisurely showers are not a option. Emptying the waste tank is a chore best forgotten. The Lady and I have discussed getting a Class C Motorhome from time to time but when we start considering where to stay, parking, traffic, water supply, finding a place to drop the waste and grey water, cost of gasoline a motel room with clean sheets and plenty of hot water for bathing wins everytime.
+1
One of my brothers bought a $40K camper with slide outs. He bought a $60K Expedition EL to tow it. They spend their summers on Burt Lake in Michigan. He pays a lot of money to store trailer in a town near the lake. He takes his boat up north at the beginning of the summer, but the trailer only travels about 20 miles a year. They book their campsite almost a year in advance.
My BIL is on his second camper/trailer since retiring (his wife’s idea). The spent over $20K on the first one, used it a half dozen times, then traded it in on a larger trailer and spent another $32K. Of course he had to upgrade his small pick-up to an F-150 when they bought the first trailer. That was another $40K+.
Campsites aren’t free, they’re often booked at peak times well in advance and maintenance/storage costs add up quickly.
They tell you that RV traveling is a “lifestyle”.
I’m lucky, because my wife isn’t a big camping fan. If you want to travel, see the country, be comfortable and save a boat load of money, just stay in 3-4 star motels!
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Most of the points on the tow vehicle have been covered above. I'd like to add the fruits of some experience with trailers and towing.
1. The catalog weight of any trailer is highly suspect. The only way you'll know the actual weight of any given trailer is to take it to a certified scale.
2. Regardless of empty weight, the important weight is when it's fully loaded with all the stuff you "need". Again, the certified scale is your friend. It can be amazing the weight that can be added. Also, how much of that weight that can end up on the trailer tongue (rear of the tow vehicle).
3. Tongue weight is also frequently understated and remember, these quoted weights are often only for a empty trailer. Trailer dealers/distributors have been known to remove factory tongue weight warning stickers. It can be highly advisable to get front/rear axle weights on the tow vehicle without and with the trailer. You don't want to see much difference in the front axle weight between trailer/no trailer. A weight distributing hitch can shift weight back to the front axle/trailer axle(s). But, it adds weight itself.
Added edit: freight aircraft have loadmasters to make sure the aircraft is properly balanced. Someone with the same function is a must with a bumper pull trailer. The front of the trailer should be slightly heavier than the rear, but you need to watch the tongue weight. Trips to the scale may be necessary and a chart as to where stuff goes might help after you've got it figured out.
4. Beware of "sail area". This is the side surface area of the trailer. In high side winds, I've seen tow vehicle/trailer combinations twirled off the road.
1. The catalog weight of any trailer is highly suspect. The only way you'll know the actual weight of any given trailer is to take it to a certified scale.
2. Regardless of empty weight, the important weight is when it's fully loaded with all the stuff you "need". Again, the certified scale is your friend. It can be amazing the weight that can be added. Also, how much of that weight that can end up on the trailer tongue (rear of the tow vehicle).
3. Tongue weight is also frequently understated and remember, these quoted weights are often only for a empty trailer. Trailer dealers/distributors have been known to remove factory tongue weight warning stickers. It can be highly advisable to get front/rear axle weights on the tow vehicle without and with the trailer. You don't want to see much difference in the front axle weight between trailer/no trailer. A weight distributing hitch can shift weight back to the front axle/trailer axle(s). But, it adds weight itself.
Added edit: freight aircraft have loadmasters to make sure the aircraft is properly balanced. Someone with the same function is a must with a bumper pull trailer. The front of the trailer should be slightly heavier than the rear, but you need to watch the tongue weight. Trips to the scale may be necessary and a chart as to where stuff goes might help after you've got it figured out.
4. Beware of "sail area". This is the side surface area of the trailer. In high side winds, I've seen tow vehicle/trailer combinations twirled off the road.
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Sistema1927
US Veteran
I can't help you, since only you can determine what is nice for your needs, but I can tell a cautionary tale.
The wife and I were camping at Mesa Verde in our 17' Casita trailer (which I wish I still had, but that is another story), which we towed with an F150. That evening after dark we heard an awful commotion next door, but it soon settled down.
The next morning I looked out and there was an Airstream next to us, and a Jeep Grand Cherokee. The owner was trying desperately to deal with his weight distribution hitch. I threw on some shoes, went out, and asked if needed any help. I couldn't help but notice that both the trailer and Jeep wore temporary tags issued from the same place in Denver.
As I spoke with him, I learned that he and his wife wanted to get a trailer, and the salesman at this establishment talked him into this combo. When I remarked that the Jeep was way undersized for that trailer he recounted the white knuckle trip down from Denver, with the trailer almost getting away from him a couple of times. He decided, wise man, to go only as far as Farmington, NM, trade in the Jeep, and get a 3/4 ton pickup. I hope that he made it there.
The wife and I were camping at Mesa Verde in our 17' Casita trailer (which I wish I still had, but that is another story), which we towed with an F150. That evening after dark we heard an awful commotion next door, but it soon settled down.
The next morning I looked out and there was an Airstream next to us, and a Jeep Grand Cherokee. The owner was trying desperately to deal with his weight distribution hitch. I threw on some shoes, went out, and asked if needed any help. I couldn't help but notice that both the trailer and Jeep wore temporary tags issued from the same place in Denver.
As I spoke with him, I learned that he and his wife wanted to get a trailer, and the salesman at this establishment talked him into this combo. When I remarked that the Jeep was way undersized for that trailer he recounted the white knuckle trip down from Denver, with the trailer almost getting away from him a couple of times. He decided, wise man, to go only as far as Farmington, NM, trade in the Jeep, and get a 3/4 ton pickup. I hope that he made it there.
For smaller towing jobs our V-8 Trailblazer EXT does the job. (7000 lb towing cap )
5.3L 4x4. The straight six usually found is a dog by comparison.
5.3L 4x4. The straight six usually found is a dog by comparison.
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pistolpete10
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Keep the trailer lightweight and get something with a V-8 in it. If you can't live with a Suburban or a pick up you prolly ought to get a tent.
I like my.....
Dodge Caravan. So much that when somebody pulled out in front of me and totalled it, I didn't hesitate. I just went out and bought another one. Probably a bit large for you though.
Dodge Caravan. So much that when somebody pulled out in front of me and totalled it, I didn't hesitate. I just went out and bought another one. Probably a bit large for you though.
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NOT a vehicle to tow anything bigger than a bicycle.
Exaviator
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Hard to beat a Ford Ranger 4 x 4. Choice of engines 2.2 - 3.2 Ltrs and braked towing between 2.5 - 3.5 Tons. Models include, Station Wagon, Pick-Up and Crew Cab. A sturdy, comfortable and economical vehicle which can handle all terrain.
My inlaw had a 32' Pace Arrow with slide out, bumper pull trailer and he bought a V10 Ford Excursion SUV and it didn't pull it very well and traded for an F-250 Club Cab diesel and it pulled the trailer effortlessly. Diesel is the only way to go. Even at 32' with the slide out it was still pretty cramped for two people and I would only want to stay in it for a weekend. If I was by myself I could probably live out of it.
I haven't seen a straight (inline) six cylinder engine in years. They are all V6s now.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=508110&stc=1&d=1618234109
We travel a lot towing our travel trailer. This is our 9th new RV and I will guess that next year we will get our 10th and last RV we will ever need.
We travel every year from just north of Seattle to about 50 miles east of Dallas every year. We also take a trip down to Nevada every year. Travel trailers are not made like they were years ago and now they wear our quickly. After about 40,000 miles on one we think it is time to get a new one.
All I can say is get more truck than you need. Stopping a travel trailer is way more important than getting your truck to pull it up a hill. Learn to use the transmission instead of the brakes.
Join a RV'ers website and ask lots of questions.
We travel a lot towing our travel trailer. This is our 9th new RV and I will guess that next year we will get our 10th and last RV we will ever need.
We travel every year from just north of Seattle to about 50 miles east of Dallas every year. We also take a trip down to Nevada every year. Travel trailers are not made like they were years ago and now they wear our quickly. After about 40,000 miles on one we think it is time to get a new one.
All I can say is get more truck than you need. Stopping a travel trailer is way more important than getting your truck to pull it up a hill. Learn to use the transmission instead of the brakes.
Join a RV'ers website and ask lots of questions.
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Chubbs103
US Veteran
I live amongst abundant Bureau of Land Management land. The family and I have stayed in a campground once. Everything else has been "boondocking." Out West you can do your research and find great places to park a travel trailer.
As mentioned before, water is your limitation.
WD hitches are your friend.
Trailers have a tendency of putting on extra weight fast.
Extra capacity in your tow vehicle is always appreciated.
I've towed at the top end of the vehicle's limits and it sucks.
luvsmiths
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An Ford Explorer with the largest eco boost motor.( 2.7 liter in the Explorers) REAL nice, powerful rigs.
And use Reese dual cam sway control/weight distribution hitch.
My suggestion hinges on how large a camper you will have. It sounds as if it will not be large,
And use Reese dual cam sway control/weight distribution hitch.
My suggestion hinges on how large a camper you will have. It sounds as if it will not be large,
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TheHobbyist
Member
I normally wouldn't post the antithesis to the question for an OP to consider, but allow me to share another viewpoint as one other commentator did.
Rather than spend the net present value in all this gear, you can fly first class, rent a luxury SUV (Land Rover, BMW, Mercedes) and stay at a 4-5 star hotel and eat/drink like a King/Queen. It is your decision obviously, but providing a contraposition as 'food for thought'.
Alternatively, buy your own land, build a pond, and voila. Each to their own and I hope this has been of interest and is in now way meant negatively, just a thought.
Rather than spend the net present value in all this gear, you can fly first class, rent a luxury SUV (Land Rover, BMW, Mercedes) and stay at a 4-5 star hotel and eat/drink like a King/Queen. It is your decision obviously, but providing a contraposition as 'food for thought'.
Alternatively, buy your own land, build a pond, and voila. Each to their own and I hope this has been of interest and is in now way meant negatively, just a thought.
Jon651
Member
I just read back through this thread and realized that the operative concept here is "a nice camper (kitchen toilet shower AC sleep two comfortably)".
Many folks don't realize just how wide of a range that particular metric really is! In fact, since 1995 EVERY camper my wife and I owned has met those generic requirements but have included everything from our first pop-up at less than 2000# to our current travel trailer at 8000# - and I would never consider pulling our current behemoth with what I used to tow our first pop-up!
And apparently, everyone here also has their own concept of what that style of camper is to them - but little of our ramblings about tow vehicles will matter at all unless we hear back from Bushmaster as to what size/weight of camper he is looking at.
