what is the correct dies for load 38 midrange wadcutters

[k-38]

hi People! my question is about what dies are the best for reload 38 midrange wadcutter. i will buy a Dillon 550 and i want to know the dillon dies are perfect for this with dillon crimp die or need sustitution with redding profile crimp die or mix dies(1 dillon an 2 reddings,etc.) i have a 52-2!

 

[Rule3]

Any dies will load 38 Spl wadcutters. What fits on a Dillon I can not say, My LEE dies work just fine for a M 52.

 

[Model52guy]

I use a mix of dies on my Hornady Pro-jector (older hornady progressive). I use an RCBS sizing die, a Lee powder thru expander, RCBS bullet seater and a Lee Factory crimp die.
The brass I use is all the same head stamp and same style (the ones I use are all R-P nickle with double case crimps) Nothing special about the style of case I picked, I just had a bunch of them. I trim them to 1.145" after the initial sizing. Thereafter, I haven't had to re-trim, as they return to the 1.145" after re-sizing. Over the years, I have found the most important thing with the Model 52 is reloading consistency. Find a combination that works and stick to it.

 

[growr]

Dillon dies in your 550 will be oustanding! I use Dillon dies whenever I can and Redding/RCBS for the calibers Dillon does not offer.
Randy

 

[Oldshot]

With a user name like K38, I assume you will be reloading for a revolver. Dillon's dies are fine but pricey. Just about an brand will do, but check first if they are compatible with the D-550 progressive press. The bullet seating die can be easily adjusted to give a satisfactory crimp for any revolver load/bullet style you use. Some mfgrs used to include an extra stem for ball style bullets. But I'm not sure if they do this anymore.
The same(above) also applies if you are loading for a S&W M-52 wad-cutter gun.

 

[jag22]

I think at some point I will buy another set of 38 special dies (actually just another seating die) because it is a PIA to change the seating die back and forth. I shoot a lot more 158 grn RN than I do rounds for my 52.

 

[venomballistics]

If you are not familiar enough with die sets to know that the dies don't determine load intensity, it is my duty to talk you out of the progressive press.
you don't want or need the layers of press mechanics on top of learning the basic methodology of hand loading.
Get a turret or a low cost single stage press first.

 

[LostintheOzone]

What VB said. Progressives can be tricky. I've been loading metal for a few years and I'm not there yet. But then I never was at the head of my class either.

I've used a progressive to load for my shotguns so I have a smidgen of an idea what goes on there.

 

[Will2]

Dillon dies have an easy clean out feature that would be helpful when loading lead bullets. Don't know if any other brands have this feature. I've read that some have problems with the Lee factory crimp die and lead bullets.

The Dillon dies are designed for a progressive loader. I'm sure you will be more than satisfied with the Dillon dies, I am.

Will

 

[rwsmith]

Honestly dude.....

K-38, please get one or preferably two of the loading manuals with a good 'how to' section, such as Speer, Lyman, Hornady or one of the others. Beside load data they have great sections describing the ins and outs of each cartridge type such as straight wall, rimmed, semi auto rimless, bottleneck rifle cartridges, etc.

You are starting out with .38 which is one of the easiest rounds to load for. No matter how you plan to measure out your powder make sure that you have a good scale to check the weight of powder against. It's EASY to make a double charge of some powders and it's very hard to judge the level in the case and that will blow your gun to pieces. Wadcutters are easy to load for, start at the minimum charge in the data and work up .2 grains at a time until you get the load you want.

Are you going to use the soft lead swaged wadcutter put out by Speer and Hornady or are you going to use hard cast? Soft lead wadcutters can't be pushed beyond about 1000 fps and hard cast bullets should be used with higher velocities.

The Dillon equipment is FANTASTIC but you may have jumped in too deep with a progressive press to start. If you get frustrated, drop back to a single stage or maybe a turret until you get familiar with the process.

You have to be careful of 'squib' rounds that pop only the primer or a too small charge of powder and get stuck in the barrel. If you shoot after a bullets gets lodged you can damage the gun barrel.

There are TONS of safety tips in these manuals and you can use Youtube also. I hope you have a great time entering the reloading club but SAFETY is most important. Safety can be had by studying and familiarity as well as a mindset that you aren't going to let anything interrupt you when reloading and try to avoid anything dangerous at all.

Glad to meetcha and a Hound Dawg Howdy from SC USA.

PS: Stay with us and feel free to ask questions. Make sure you've done your homework because a lack of rudimentary knowledge tells people that you are jumping in without knowing what you are doing.

PPS. The manufacturer will clearly describe their dies as being for .38 special or whatever caliber you are loading. Some .38 special dies will also load .357 magnum because the cartridges are almost the same size, the .357s are just a little longer.

Dies have some special features, especially with progressive presses like 'pour through' design for the power.