I'm fairly green and am having trouble understanding what makes the pull heavier in a .22. I think I know why it has to be heavier- rimfire has to hit harder for ignition, but what actually makes it heavier? I've had several K and N frames apart to give them some polishing, but have never had them apart at the same time to compare. Since the mainspring is the same in both K and N what gives. Hope this makes sense and isn't too stupid of a question. Thanks
What makes trigger pull heavier in .22
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
The actions are all the same. Rimfire takes more of a hit to bend the metal and crush the priming compound because the folded over rim is harder to bend than a centerfire primer with support only around the edges. Thus, the mainspring has to be set heavier on a rimfire to make it fire every time. A heavier spring = heavier trigger pull.
i believe that they are the same, that the tension on the main spring can be increased with the tension screw at the factory before they ship the guns . Parts are fitted to the guns ,not arbitrary drop in parts.
The mainsprings are the same. In terms of the K frame revolvers, a very slight difference in the overall length of the mainspring strain screw can account for a heavier trigger feel due to more tension on the mainspring itself.
Not trying to pick on you,but in your post you stated that you were polishing up some parts.That would indicate a partial action job.Those should be done only by an experienced gun smith,or someone with full knowledge of Smith & Wesson internal lock works, including knowing how a main spring functions.
I learn new things here every day. That's one of the most interesting aspects of this forum. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on board.
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
I have been shooting and working on revolvers since about 1975. I have found that you always pay for your education one way or another. Maybe college tuition, maybe mistakes in life, maybe ruined parts.
I can build or modify any revolver to be anything I want it to be. I have definitely paid my dues in years of study of every minute detail of revolver actions and interactions and replacing parts. The problem is - you never know where the limits are until you go past them. This is part of knowing how it all works. To all those who are trying to learn this, I will say Measure twice, cut once. Weld, repeat.
So I encourage those who want to learn to go for it. You may scrap some parts, but S&W parts are available. You will have to spend money on tools and parts. That, and lots of time is the cost of the education. After all this time I still learn new things too, but it usually is cheaper now.
I only build my own guns to use in matches, not for anyone else.
I can build or modify any revolver to be anything I want it to be. I have definitely paid my dues in years of study of every minute detail of revolver actions and interactions and replacing parts. The problem is - you never know where the limits are until you go past them. This is part of knowing how it all works. To all those who are trying to learn this, I will say Measure twice, cut once. Weld, repeat.
So I encourage those who want to learn to go for it. You may scrap some parts, but S&W parts are available. You will have to spend money on tools and parts. That, and lots of time is the cost of the education. After all this time I still learn new things too, but it usually is cheaper now.
I only build my own guns to use in matches, not for anyone else.
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Inusuit
Member
Anyone with a modicum of mechanical ability and access to a good reference book such as Kuhnhausen's shop manuals can correctly "polish up some parts" and improve the function of a S&W revolver. I think the OP knows how a mainspring functions. We all started somewhere, nothing ventured nothing gained. I'm with Toolguy on this one. Learn by doing.
I find that even with bone dry charge holes, after the first shot the remaining rounds get progressively harder. The cases back out and drag on the recoil shield. Gets worse as the session progresses. I bring a toothbrush and a bore brush if I'm planning to shoot more than 100 rds through my 17-3. Joe
Ever hear the term Bubba.
used quite a bit on gun forums.Always wise to learn before you go,as opposed to learn as you go.
Some very good additional info found here.....a thread started last year regarding K-22 issues and remedies.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1961-1980/447681-17-4-cylinder-swells-heat.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1961-1980/447681-17-4-cylinder-swells-heat.html
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