What to buy?

You've asked for advice and everyone means well, but having been an instructor for years I know that it comes down to the individual as to what is "big enough" verses "too heavy" when it comes to folks your age.

I unfortunately had to turn a little lady down for a permit class one time years ago when it became very apparent she just did not have the hand strength and coordination to handle even a small rimfire revolver.

It depends on the health and strength of the individual and a lot of good advice has been proffered but only you can know what you can handle and what you can't - an L frame may be just fine, may be too big and heavy.
 
I highly recommend for you a 3" 686+ (7 rounds).

It is a fabulous revolver. That 1 inch lopped off the front makes a big difference in carrying...or maybe fit better in your handbag :D

That 1 inch smaller barrel makes no difference in shooting accuracy. The gun feels quite mild with 125gr 357. 158gr is stouter though so you may want to go for a hot 38 special or stick with 125gr 357s.

The 3 inch model also has the full sized ejector rod as the 4 inch model so 357 casings come out very easily.

I purchased the Talo 686+. I removed the wood grips to keep them safe from dings and I fitted the new style rubber grips from S&W.

I will also say that it is pure joy to shoot. I have never before had so much fun shooting a revolver.

Sorry for the over enthusiasm but I can't help it. The 3 inch 686+ is something quite special. Whoever made my gun that day obviously loves their guncraft.

With Talo grips

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With the new style grips

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Welcome to the forum!

You've come to the right place.

I don't think it has been said yet; but shooting a .357 without hearing protection in an enclosed space is like dropping a 'flash-bang' grenade in front of your face. It will deafen, and if at night, blind you for some period of time.

I can shoot whatever I want, and it would NEVER occur to me to touch off a .357 in my house, especially in the dark. I would sooner fire a 20 gauge. The concussion from that .357 is ear-splitting without hearing protection.

Just sayin'.
 
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4" model 10.

That is EXACTLY what I was going to suggest. I would recommend the version with the bull barrel. If you have weak wrists, you don't want a 357. And you don't need one for home defense or range fun. Last I checked Sportsmans Outdoor Super Store still had used ones for $230!

I also think a good 3" or 4" 686 would be ideal if loaded with 38+Ps.
 
Michelle welcome to the forum, and thank you for your service to the country. Now you asked about a new .357 magnum revolver and as others have suggested I would suggest either a 3" or 4" barrel M-686. these are not to heavy but have enough bulk to help absorb the recoil of either 38 Special +P or .357 Magnum ammo.

As vytoland suggested the .357 magnum round can be a handful anytime but specially if fired indoors, I would suggest you load a hot 38 special +p or +P+ round.

As nice as the eight round M-627's are I don't think it is necessary to spend the extra money for what you want a revolver for.
 
As others have stated, I think .38 Special works much better for home defense. I have much better control and accuracy with .38 Special, and that is reason enough. It doesn't matter how devastating the projectile is if I can't get it on the target. Plus, I don't have legal protection like the spray-and-pray NYC cops - if I miss and injure someone else, I probably lose everything I own.

I agree with the others that a 3" or 4" K-frame or L-frame is the ticket. The thing is, most of the good .38 K-frames will be found used, One reason for this is because there are fewer .38-only new models made. Most new models are .357/.38.

If you are uncomfortable finding a used specimen (even though I'm sure there are many fine gentlemen here who will help you locate a good one), then a new S&W 686+ would be a good choice. 7 rounds, very sturdy frame to handle recoil, excellent trigger, etc. The only issue is that it may be too heavy for you. Probably not too heavy to put 7 rounds into some bad guys, but it might wear you out shooting 50 or 100 rounds at the range, and you do need to practice regularly if possible. The 4" 686+ is 39-oz. The 3" 686+ is 37-oz. It does take its toll when all that weight is at the end of your arm. Accuracy can go downhill fast if your arm is tired.

S&W does still make a couple of 4" K-frame models in .38 Special, the fixed sight M64 at 35-oz and the adjustable sight M67 at 36-oz. One good thing about these is they are $100 - $150 cheaper than the 686+. They are 6-shooters, though.

If a lighter model is required, it's tough to find a compact revolver with a barrel longer than 3". The S&W Model 60 is a 5-shot .357 with 3" barrel, and weighs about 25-oz. Ruger makes a 3" SP-101 that runs about 28-oz I think.

Good luck and welcome to the forum!
 
Again, welcome to the forum Michelle. No lack of advice, hah? I won't add any more but may I ask that you tell us what you finally decide purchasing? Good luck.
 
This might be out in left field, but have you considered a .45 Colt cartridge in a 25 or 625 Smith and Wesson or even a mountain gun? Cowboy loads are gentle and still have a 250-255 grain hunk of lead to "persuade" an invader. These kick less than a .357 in most factory loads, but the down-side is the frame size goes from K or L to an N-frame. These are considerably larger for the hands. Just a left-field thought. Welcome and best of luck in your choice.
 
I thought of something else;

You could buy 2 (maybe 3?) perfectly good model 10's for the price of a new 686+. That would give you 12 shots! :D
 
All of the above is excellent advice, and I would add that you'll probably be much happier in the long run with a stainless steel or nickel gun over a blued gun, due to the easier job cleaning it and the rust resistance.
My first (and only) revolver is a 629-2 with a 3" barrel.
 
You might look at the Ruger SP101, in .357, 3", loaded with .38+Ps for defense.

If range/target shooting is important a SW Model 10, 13, or 66 in 4 inch with .38s would be very versatile. The .38 is a do-all cartridge. And used Smiths are a bargain - the most gun for the money. Nothing wrong with a 686, but it is a heavy gun. A Model 66 in 3 or 4 inch might be a better choice.

.357 has a lot of recoil, which is the opposite side of a hard hitting cartridge. The benefit may not be worth the cost. .38 is easier to control, more fun to shoot, and generally easier to shoot accurately. In a self-defense situation you are doing several things at once. Managing wrist-numbing recoil should not be one of them. .357 is a great caliber for a revolver. But the nice thing is that you can shoot .38 special in a .357, as the OP knows. Some of the most affordable Smith and Wesson revolvers are based on the Model 10 in .38 special. They make fine home defense and target revolvers.
 
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