What to do about getting a new cylinder for an 1980's S&W 66?

[undeadmerc3]

I ordered a new cylinder for my S&W 66, but when I tried putting it into my S&W 66, it wouldn't fit without the cylinder washer ring removed. Even with the washer ring removed it still wouldn't open without me pushing the barrel pin forward with a screw driver. I then notice the ridges on the extractor for the new cylinder were different from the old one. The image I attached has the new cylinder on the left after I tried installing it, and the one on the right is the old one which I need to replace. As a result of the ridge patterns on the extractor being different It won't cycle either or fire. That said, i'd like send this back for the right cylinder for the right model. I suspect my S&W 66 was made in 1986 since it's serial number is ALV6013. Any idea on what I should do? I tried switching the extractors between the old and new cylinder, but they won't fit with each other.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

The gas ring on the front of the cylinder ? Or on yoke?.....Makes a big difference without the correct cylinder for the yoke.

 

[undeadmerc3]

The gas ring on the front of the cylinder ? Or on yoke?.....Makes a big difference without the correct cylinder for the yoke.

I assume it's the gas ring since it goes in front of the cylinder. I think the reason why the cylinder isn't compatible is the ejector, which I can't swap out.

 

[Nightowl]

The factory played around with the gas ring and yokes on the model 66, so you need the correct yoke with the mating cylinder. We would need pictures of the other end of the cylinder and yoke to help determine compatibility. Also, the yoke tube may be too long for your new cylinder, if the gas rings are compatible.

I have learned, the hard way, of course, that if I want to change cylinders, that I also buy an additional yoke, if I want to keep the original cylinder in working order. Apparently not the same issue here, though.

 

[smithman]

This stuff shows up on eBay very frequently.

 

[mmande]

What is the dash number of your 66? You will need to find a cylinder made to the same dash number so the engineering changes that S&W incorporated are the same.
FYI: I have a cylinder and yoke that I know came out of a 66-1 that I would sell.
Mike

 

[VM]

This stuff shows up on eBay very frequently.

^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^

Further more if you study the auctions and are patient, you can find a demilled "parts gun" that contains your exact era parts and then have other components that you may need down the road

 

[steelslaver]

The type of ratchet cuts really do not mater. All that the hand uses is one small piece of the outside. I have put a new style cylinder in a 1917 and it worked fine.

Your problem maybe that your extractor rod is not threading into the new extractor the exact same amount making it a bit longer. With the cylinder assembled, press the center pin flat by pressing the ratchet face down on a hard flat surface. Does the other end of center pin come flush with end of ejector rod or stick out a tiny bit? If not that is your problem. Carefully file enough off the end of the ejector until the center pin comes flush. Once it does take about a 3/16-1/4 drill bit and place it in the end of the rod and twirl it by hand with just a bit of pressure. This will beak the square shoulder a tiny bit and help the lug pin slide out when you open the cylinder. Placing some 400 grit paper on something with a bit of give and turning the ejector rod a few times on it will break the outside edge a bit. If you look at an older blued guns ejector rod tip it will be in the white because they got adjusted in a similar manner when assembled at the factory.

It does mater where the gas ring is located on your yoke. If your yoke has the gas ring on it you must remove it from the cylinder. But, even then all yoke tubes are not the exact same length. Your new cylinders center hole maybe a tiny bit shallower or deeper than the one that was fit to your yoke. If yours does close and the face of cylinder is not contacting the barrel your probably OK if the cylinder turns easily.

First how does it function when it is closed. Does the cylinder turn easily when cylinder stop is down? A .002-.004 feeler gauge on top of stop between it and cylinder will hold it down and allow you to turn cylinder by hand. If it turns free the tube length is fine. You should have a tiny bit .001-.002 of forward to back movement of cylinder (end shake). If it is zero you need to shorten the tube a bit. If it is over .003 I would install a .002 shim. To check. Press cylinder to rear and find the largest automotive feeler gauge that will go between face of cylinder and end of barrel. Write that down. Now press the cylinder toward barrel and check again. The difference is your end shake. Lets say pressed back is .006 and forward is .004.. Your end shake is .002 and fine.
If the cylinder will not close or binds when it does your tube is to long and needs adjusted. I usually do it with a fine file. First I put some Prussian blue on end of tube, stick it in cylinder press cylinder forward and rotate a couple turns and remove. Any spots where the blue is thinner than others is a high spot. Make 4-5 passes with the file holding it dead flat but putting a bit more pressure on any area that is high. Check in gun. Then check again with the Prussian blue.

When the it open and closes and rotates then check the lock up. If the DA trigger gets hard or stops right before the hammer releases you have the ratchet tooth for that chamber is long. If the hammer drops but the trigger sticks it is just a tiny bit as the hand is hanging on the tooth. Filing teeth takes a small fine file with a safe side. You must maintain the tooth original shape on the side you file. The tooth that works a chamber is the 2nd to the left of it looking from the rear. Unless you are real good with files and willing to take a chance of ruining a extractor don't do it. don't try it. If all the trigger locks up on all the chambers you can remove the hand hold it flat on a diamond stone and polish some off the side of it instead. If it does fire but is bit stiff right before the hammer drops or the trigger does not reset when it used to, usually a bunch of dry firing will wear it in.

If you pull the trigger real slow and the hammer drops before the cylinder stop lock the cylinder your hand is a bit narrow and you need a slightly wider one.

When changing out cylinders I find I need to adjust the yoke tube length, either by shortening it a bit or adding shims to eliminate excess end shake maybe 70% of the time. Amazingly the timing is OK about 90% of the time.

 

[No Quarter]

I had to order a side plate for a 66-2. I ordered it from these guys. It was in great shape. It went in the mail the same day and I got it 2 days later. First time I've ordered from them, but won't be the last.

Smith & Wesson Model 66-2 Cylinder w/Extractor

 

[undeadmerc3]

What is the dash number of your 66? You will need to find a cylinder made to the same dash number so the engineering changes that S&W incorporated are the same.
FYI: I have a cylinder and yoke that I know came out of a 66-1 that I would sell.
Mike

For how much? Do you have an estimate on how many rounds it's fired?

 

[Hair Trigger]

What is the dash number of your 66? You will need to find a cylinder made to the same dash number so the engineering changes that S&W incorporated are the same.
FYI: I have a cylinder and yoke that I know came out of a 66-1 that I would sell.
Mike

Unlikely it will work any better than the new one he has. The dash-1 cylinder is longer than whatever one he has, because it has the recessed chambers, his does not have that feature. It might fit, but will be a much closer fit against the recoil shield. The ratchets on the extractor have to be fitted to the hand a lot of times, it's something a gunsmith should do. If they don't fit equally on each ratchet, there may be timing issues where the cylinder won't lock up. The gas ring should be press fitted to the cylinder, it was changed from the yoke to the cylinder on the dash-1, after a short time being mounted on the yoke on the no-dash.

Unfortunately, major revolver parts usually aren't drop-in fits on the older guns, back when there was a lot more hand fitting than there is today.

 

[steelslaver]

The only additional fitting cause by installing a recessed cylinder in a frame that had a non recessed cylinder is the frame lug below window needs its face carefully filed back .060 so the recessed portion of cylinder can operate. I use a file with the large face safed (ground smooth) so only the side cuts and put some duct tape on frame nearby. I have made 3 recessed 45 colts by reaming recessed 44 mag cylinders to colt and installing them in guns. I have also installed recessed 357 mag cylinders in previously no recessed guns.

Like I said 90% of the time the actual carry up timing is OK. Yoke tube length, extractor rod length are more often a problem. Even the B/C gap is usually within tolerances

I had only ran into the gas ring deal was on a model 15 frame I was making into a 357 Smolt, until I bought some new J frames. When i went to doing a mix and match to install a 32 HR cylinder and barrel into a 38+p frame and finding out some of the recent J frames I have run a steel yoke and those have the gas block on the yoke while the ones with alloy have the ring in cylinder, which is easily removed or installed. I have gone to the steel yoke on all of them.

On the Smolt project I simply installed a different K frame yoke. Yokes are often more of a pain than cylinders as the face of yoke is match finished to the frame and when going from one to the other there may be some variance between the 2 front surfaces.

This frame originally had the gas ring on yoke and a non recessed cylinder. Now it runs a recessed cylinder with gas ring mounted in it.