As I said, I'm no expert. I was thinking of the expense. I've been through a similar situation, the estimates to repair were so expensive, I sold the gun cheap.
What to do with this Model 63? UPDATED WITH RESULTS OF REAM JOB.
- Thread starter sigp220.45
- Start date
As I said, I'm no expert. I was thinking of the expense. I've been through a similar situation, the estimates to repair were so expensive, I sold the gun cheap.
amazingflapjack
US Veteran
A set of "pin gauges" will erase many questions here about this cylinder.
Green Frog
Member
I'm going to guess the chambers (at least one or two of them, which is all it would take) are lightly tapered from the front. this would allow the loaded round to drop in easily but the fired round would expand into the larger front portion and lock in the empty case. More reaming would probably not help until the whole length of the chamber got oversized. You can't "ream it smaller."
My vote goes to rechamber to 22 mag and look for a replacement in 22lr so you have two useful chamberings. Then again, it's your money, so it's your decision.
Froggie
My vote goes to rechamber to 22 mag and look for a replacement in 22lr so you have two useful chamberings. Then again, it's your money, so it's your decision.
Froggie
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Sounds like a fun project. I came across a .32 Hand Ejector that had this treatment in a pawn shop a few years ago. They were too proud of it for my wallet, but the work was well done and done many years ago.
"I have picked up a couple of top break 32s. I am going to try lining the cylinders, bores and reworking extractor for 22 lr rims and redoing the firing pin and bushing to make a top break 22lr, just for entertainment."
I had a .32 S&W top break for a while. It was a fun gun to shoot, but the power level was so low that I was afraid that the bullet would bounce back when shooting at an aluminum can! I love one chambered in .22 Long Rifle. I haven't been able to find one cheap enough to convert.
I had a .32 S&W top break for a while. It was a fun gun to shoot, but the power level was so low that I was afraid that the bullet would bounce back when shooting at an aluminum can! I love one chambered in .22 Long Rifle. I haven't been able to find one cheap enough to convert.
Take your gun to a gunsmith and have your chambers measured and compared with SAAMI specs for .22 LR. You can't make any sort of intelligent decision about what to do without first knowing what you have. The possibility of a slight "reverse taper" (i.e., larger diameter at the barrel-end of the chamber) would definitely affect extraction and that is also something to check. You can't check for that with pin gages, unfortunately. It's going to require careful measuring, since your chambers could also be a bit out of round.
My guess is that your chambers are tight or show a small reverse taper, not oversized. "Polishing" your chambers would have to be done by lapping, to preserve roundness. Fiddling around with attempts at polishing without considering roundness is liable to end up causing more trouble, not less.
Carefully touching up the chambers with a sharp .22 LR reamer sometimes fixes this problem. And sometimes it makes things worse, depending on how expertly it is done, and whether the reamer is up to the job. One that's not sharp wont be. If you buy a reamer, don't buy a "match" chambering reamer.
My guess is that your chambers are tight or show a small reverse taper, not oversized. "Polishing" your chambers would have to be done by lapping, to preserve roundness. Fiddling around with attempts at polishing without considering roundness is liable to end up causing more trouble, not less.
Carefully touching up the chambers with a sharp .22 LR reamer sometimes fixes this problem. And sometimes it makes things worse, depending on how expertly it is done, and whether the reamer is up to the job. One that's not sharp wont be. If you buy a reamer, don't buy a "match" chambering reamer.
DocB
Member
Wow, that's a nice one, and a really good price too! You can always send to me. I don't shoot 22 Magnum that much, so the sticky problem wouldn't bother me at all.
This thread sent me to the range this morning. I don't have a Mod 63, but do have a 650 with auxiliary LR cylinder. Happens to have the same part# as the 63 cylinder. My findings with MiniMags is binding after twelve rounds, CCI-SV after 18. However after 50 rounds of CCI Quiet, easy as pie.
63
I have had several md 34s rechambered into 22 mag. They shoot great & most will also shoot 22 lr as well. This may not be by the book, but after shooting them for years have had no problems.
I have had several md 34s rechambered into 22 mag. They shoot great & most will also shoot 22 lr as well. This may not be by the book, but after shooting them for years have had no problems.
If you get another 22 cylinder
I would be interested in your
Over sized one this would take the
sting out of the price but timing
Will have to be checked if you
replace it
I would be interested in your
Over sized one this would take the
sting out of the price but timing
Will have to be checked if you
replace it
I bought a 63 when the came out and still have it. It was super sticky. It used a drill with a swab coated in polish compound and cleaned the chambers. If I remember it was a fine valve grind compound. They are still a bit sticky but can deal with it.
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In my experience of 50 plus years, oversize chambers do not a sticky chamber make.
Extracting with only one case sticking in a chamber can make it feel like all chambers are sticking!
First you need to diagnose the problem:
1. Check every chamber mouth for a ding or roll over burr in the edge of the chamber mouth.
2. Shoot a round in only one chamber at a time to determine which chamber or chambers are the problem.
If the chambers were honed or polished improperly the most common result is a chamber with a wallow in it or a wide spot or out of round spot. In other words the chamber wall is not straight. You'll never extract a case from a chamber with a spot that's wider than the mouth of the chamber! Because you're basically having to resize the case to extract it from the chamber.
And pin gauges will not detect that.
Once you find the problem chamber or chambers they should be reamed with a fresh reamer of full diameter. But if after reaming you can still see spots in the walls of the chamber that the reamer didn't touch, you may still have a sticking case.
At this point you have nothing to lose, so you can go to the final remedy.
Or I'd even skip the expense of the reaming step and go straight to honing.
You can try to find a hone for 22 or there's also the poor man's honing method. A wood dowel smaller than the chamber diameter, with a skinny slit in the end of it, the length of a 22 LR case. Place one end of a piece of 600 grit wet or dry paper in the slit and wrap it tightly around the dowel in the opposite direction that your Dremel or power drill spins, so it will just fit in the chamber.
As you spin it keep it straight! Move it in and out of the chamber slowly which will add just a slight taper to the mouth of the chamber. Again look for wallows or spots that are not being touched by the paper. Use 5 power glasses. Avoid honing the throat or front end of the chamber. You can give it another quick hone with 1000 grit paper. I can almost guarantee those bad chambers will no longer have sticking cases in them.
Extracting with only one case sticking in a chamber can make it feel like all chambers are sticking!
First you need to diagnose the problem:
1. Check every chamber mouth for a ding or roll over burr in the edge of the chamber mouth.
2. Shoot a round in only one chamber at a time to determine which chamber or chambers are the problem.
If the chambers were honed or polished improperly the most common result is a chamber with a wallow in it or a wide spot or out of round spot. In other words the chamber wall is not straight. You'll never extract a case from a chamber with a spot that's wider than the mouth of the chamber! Because you're basically having to resize the case to extract it from the chamber.
And pin gauges will not detect that.
Once you find the problem chamber or chambers they should be reamed with a fresh reamer of full diameter. But if after reaming you can still see spots in the walls of the chamber that the reamer didn't touch, you may still have a sticking case.
At this point you have nothing to lose, so you can go to the final remedy.
Or I'd even skip the expense of the reaming step and go straight to honing.
You can try to find a hone for 22 or there's also the poor man's honing method. A wood dowel smaller than the chamber diameter, with a skinny slit in the end of it, the length of a 22 LR case. Place one end of a piece of 600 grit wet or dry paper in the slit and wrap it tightly around the dowel in the opposite direction that your Dremel or power drill spins, so it will just fit in the chamber.
As you spin it keep it straight! Move it in and out of the chamber slowly which will add just a slight taper to the mouth of the chamber. Again look for wallows or spots that are not being touched by the paper. Use 5 power glasses. Avoid honing the throat or front end of the chamber. You can give it another quick hone with 1000 grit paper. I can almost guarantee those bad chambers will no longer have sticking cases in them.
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CAJUNLAWYER
Member
The issue with my 63 is not tight chambers but a tight barrel cylinder gap. After around 100 rounds the cylinder face gets dirty enough to bind.
Just the nature of the beast I guess. Doesn't bother me enough to do anything to the gun-like take a file to the rear face of the barrel
Just the nature of the beast I guess. Doesn't bother me enough to do anything to the gun-like take a file to the rear face of the barrel
I'll solve your problem the easy way. Just dump the gun in My trash bin.
OP
sigp220.45
US Veteran
I ordered up a .22 WMR reamer from 4D in Kalispell. 34 bucks plus shipping for a week. I'll update this thread with my progress, or lack thereof.
I have an old High Standard Double 9 that has slightly sticky chambers and I was thinking of trying this exact thing. I bought a 3-pack of bore mops and now I need to get the valve lapping compound. Glad to hear that someone else tried it and that it helped.
M3Stuart
Member
Oh boy. Now you've done it. Got me started on .22 revolvers...
Ok, here's the deal: In my humble experience - virtually all .22 revolvers have this problem.
Root cause of problem is friction. Solution = reduce the friction. That is; try loading just one round. It'll probably extract fine. Then try 2, 3, etc. until it gets 'sticky'.
You'll have a 4 shooter instead of 6 shooter or something like that, but it won't bind.
You can test this in any .22 revolver. If you want a guaranteed 'sticky' one, try an 8 or 10 shooter. They bind every time!
Then, if you're me anyway, you'll sell your .22 revolvers and go back to Ruger MkII's.
Ok, here's the deal: In my humble experience - virtually all .22 revolvers have this problem.
Root cause of problem is friction. Solution = reduce the friction. That is; try loading just one round. It'll probably extract fine. Then try 2, 3, etc. until it gets 'sticky'.
You'll have a 4 shooter instead of 6 shooter or something like that, but it won't bind.
You can test this in any .22 revolver. If you want a guaranteed 'sticky' one, try an 8 or 10 shooter. They bind every time!
Then, if you're me anyway, you'll sell your .22 revolvers and go back to Ruger MkII's.
This can work just fine. But with a soft backing like a mop and valve grinding compound can spread unevenly. Not saying they always will, just that this is how wallows can be be formed.
If you use that method move the mop in and out of the chambers while spinning it to minimize heavier polishing in one area of the chamber.
Stargater
Member
Converting it to .22WMR would be my first choice as it's a greatly underrated round that is still far less expensive than centerfire ammo. I had a Model 63 that I loved. One day the apartment maintenance guys came in and walked off with it for some drug hits. They were fired and I never got my guns back. I ended up getting a Rossi M511 revolver that's the "poor man's" Model 63 and it works just as well as my lost 63, is just as accurate as my 63, but it's not my 63. So I'd ream that cylinder for the .22 WMR and go with it. Then if you want a .22LR, find a Rossi made in the 80s.
Exactly what I had planned. Thanks for the additional confirmation.
I was also thinking of trying the split-dowel and sandpaper idea with some 1000 grit wet-or-dry.
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