What to expect when I send my revolver for repair?

I would check the firing pin length first, and if it is .495 or longer, it should be good. I would be careful of putting one in that punctures the primers, that can damage the firing pin bushing.

I have an extra main spring screw from a kit that I did not use, that comes with an allen wrench. If you will send me an address by private email I will send it to you.
 
A question: are you using moon clips? are they not flat all the way around? Seems to me that if there's any play in the clips it *could* be cushioning the impact of the firing pin on the primer. Full disclosure, I'm no fan of rimless cartridges in revolvers for this reason
 
A question: are you using moon clips? are they not flat all the way around? Seems to me that if there's any play in the clips it *could* be cushioning the impact of the firing pin on the primer. Full disclosure, I'm no fan of rimless cartridges in revolvers for this reason
I am using moon clips and they are flat as they are not only new but also I have tools to remove spent shells without bending them. For 10mm actually moon clips are not required.
 
Final update
Smith and Wesson didn't fix anything. Still same problem even with new spring and new yoke.
What fixed it was a TK custom longer firing pin. It's part of the trigger kit and I also bought a new lock delete as well. Well worth the money and now my 610 runs 100%.

Posting this so anyone else having failure to fire / light strike knows what to do. Buy a longer firing pin. Mine happened to be from tk custom but I read other brands work as well.

Also I used a new strain screw donated by a generous forum member which I won't divulge here because I didn't ask him aprior whether it's ok. Appreciate the generous action!
 
If you have oem factory grips. You might want to change them out. I sent my model 586 several years ago. When I got it back. Somebody there took my original target grips with the cheap looking factory grips. I contacted S&W. They said they we're sorry,but nothing they could do about it. No way of telling who might have swapped them out. So they sent me an S&W belt buckle. Like that would make it better. So if you have nice factory grips. Change them out before shipping your gun to the factory.




Did the belt buckle not fit the gun frame???? :D
 
I went through it back in June for my new 617. It was a 5 week turnaround time. Unfortunately, their warranty gunsmiths missed an issue, and I had to send it back as soon as I received it from Smith & Wesson. I was able to contact someone in upper management and they were personally involved with keeping me updated on my new revolver's second warranty visit. They sent it back to me in 2 weeks and it works flawlessly. My 10 shot 22LR is one of my favorites now, and I have never gone to the range without it since then.

The personal attention I received when I had to send it back again made all the difference to me. I bought my new Model 19 Classic in December with complete confidence. My 617 is the only Smith and Wesson I have ever had a problem with.


Just curious, what was wrong with your 617 to send it in? I just send mine in for two issues, the rear side had to be jacked all the way to the left to obtain zero (I think the barrel is twisted slightly to the right) and several of the extractor rachets were chewed up.
 
Just curious, what was wrong with your 617 to send it in? I just send mine in for two issues, the rear side had to be jacked all the way to the left to obtain zero (I think the barrel is twisted slightly to the right) and several of the extractor rachets were chewed up.
They cut the forcing cone a little and replaced the extractor due to two of the ratchets causing carry up issues. Two of the charging holes/chambers were not timed correctly due to this. Once the hammer was fully cocked, I had to move the cylinder to lock it into place. It was 80% timed correctly and 20% not so much.

They also refinished my 617. There was a tooling mark on the barrel that I did not mention, and I guess that caught the attention of the gunsmith. I just went to the range today and my first shot was a bullseye shooting double action from at least 15 yards. I absolutely love the thing.
 
So after more range session, nope, still having light strikes but interestingly no light strike at all on Federal American Eagle 165gr 40 S&W. I'm getting light strikes on S&B 10mm and occasional light strikes on CCI aluminum 40 s&w. Some of the 10mm light strikes would need a second strike to get the round to go off. So I have to rotate my cylinder twice by basically going around the cylinder twice with trigger.

I cannot test anymore as now the screw on the right side that keeps the cylinder to the frame came out and I can't find it in the range. Tbh none of my semi-auto gives me so many problems. Hate to say it but at least for me revolvers are romantic but they are super unreliable compared to glocks.
Seller & Bellot uses hard primers and Armscor is even worse. Some revolvers do not do great shooting double action with cheap target ammo.
 
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