What tool to re-cut cylinder stop notches?

cgt4570

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This is the other brand (SAA). I'm trying to fit a spare cylinder. It's been worn and buffed, making the cylinder stop notches very shallow. It's only .32 caliber, so there is plenty of meat left to deepen and sharpen them and then I can set the bolt to enter a bit further.

What kind of tool would be used to hand cut the notches a bit? I suppose a dremel on VERY slow speed could be used, but I would be a lot more comfortable with a hand file or stone. Anyone make something that's for this purpose?
I know it could be done on a mill with a special cutter, but I don't have a mill and my drill press is not nearly accurate enough.

Thanks
 
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I would advise you spend the money to have a gunsmith re-cut these notches. These are key to proper barrel cylinder alignment and one mistake could result in major damage to the gun. Under no circumstance would I attempt this with a Dremel, you'll just end up with a scrap cylinder.
 
cgt: Of all the milling cuts on the various parts of a revolver, the cylinder stop notches are probably held to the closest tolerances. Most Gunsmiths aren't equipped to re-cut them with any degree of accuracy. The cylinder should go back to the manufacturer where today they have a CNC milling machine set up for these cuts. Given all that it might be just as economical to buy a new cylinder. ......... Big Cholla
 
All of the previous posters are right, it would take a small keyway cutter to do the cuts, the cuts I think would be the least of the problem, getting a dividing head that was accurate to do 60 degrees if it is a 6 shot or 72 degrees if a 5 shot most heads are not that accurate. Where I worked we had one that was accurate to 15 seconds, it cost 6500 dollars and when they closed our department they had an auction and it brought 125.00 most of us would have paid that for a fixture that good. Jeff
 
No, it's not as simple as sending it back to the manufacturer. Colt, just like S&W won't touch guns that old. A 'new' replacement cylinder is not only expensive, but hard to find.Since there's no usable advice offered here, I guess I'll have to make a file. As long as it's safe-sided, I won't be widening the notches, only deepening them a bit. Yes, I understand how timing and barrel-cylinder alignment work and I've successfully re-fitted most parts on old Smiths and Colts. I don't like that there is so little surface area left on the stop notch edges on this cylinder.As for the Dremel consideration, I'm not talking a hack job at 10,000 RPMs. I have a variable speed pedal hooked up and it can go REALLY slow. If I can't make a file work, then I'll make a thin flat safe disk as a bearing surface on the bottom of an extremely thin, tiny wheel. I've got at least a hundred shapes/sizes to choose from.
 
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Maybe this is your guy


CYLINDER WORK

Flutes re-contoured, ground and polished

to first Gen spec..............................................$300.00

Bevels ground and polished to spec.................100.00

Locking notches machined, per notch...............15.00

Approaches machined, per cut.........................15.00

Ratchet point rebuilt and milled, per point.......45.00

Base pin hole drilled for long bushing ..............75.00


http://davelanara.homestead.com/services.html
 
Hammer and chisel. JUST JOKING.......
Sounds like it's time for a trip back to the Factory, or if you're handy, you can probably buy a new (or gently used) cylinder and fit it to your gun. If the gun has been shot to the point that the notches are stretched, it just may not pay, because it sounds like it has had the crap shot out of it. If it is a Colt and it is otherwise in perfect shape, it may warrant a "road trip".

I have shot my Colt SAA''s for 25 years (was a SASS member for 10 years) and there is bluing missing, a few nicks and scratches, but I can't say I see any appreciable wear on the notches. I can only guess there are also a few ill fitting parts that caused the wear to happen in the first place.

chief38
 
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