Where to buy ammo and brand for mp 15

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CORNfedREBEL

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i have only shot about 100 rounds of remington 55 gr, but it was pricey where i bought it, about .50 a bullet. what ammo do u recommend and where is the best place to buy it, cabelas has 1000 bullets for $400, but that is alot of cash to drop at one shot
 
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great sight, so what ammo would u recommend. i mean hiw much better is remington than wolf because at $400 for 1000 thats .40 and i see there are a few brands for that price and under i just never heard of them.
 
Well, I tend to use Prvi M193 stuff. However, I know many people that use Wolf stuff--however, you should know that it is a pretty dirty round, so expect to do more cleaning.

You might want to consider getting a .22 upper and shoot the cheap .22 rounds.
 
not sure how a round is dirtier than the other but it sounds like i should prob just stick to remington, what are some other brands people are using, i have a 15 22 for plinking, need practice on this rifle for coyote hunting next week.
 
I've been using XM193 5.56x45 with a 1/9 barrel and have nothing bad to say about it. $8/20rds and $249/800rds @ my local shop. Wolf, Tula etc. are dirtier and run steel cases like most russian stuff rather than brass.
 
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Steel Rounds vs Brass

I have heard that the steel rounds are really hard on the extractor. Is this true?

And I agree. The Wolf rounds are very dirty. It takes me at least twice as long to clean my AK after a day at the range.

But, the rounds that I buy, 7.62X39 rounds are less than .27 cents per round, so I don't mind a little extra time cleaning.

Not sure it would be worth it on an AR.

PhilH
 
General and special purpose on the tactical side:

Tactical entry use subsonic with suppressors > Extreme Shock - The World's Most Advanced Ammunition

Tactical supersonic use with or without supprerssors > Extreme Shock - The World's Most Advanced Ammunition

On a side note: You folks with handguns for personal defense or home defense, and you folks with duty related carry, this is what you want > http://www.extremeshockusa.com/cgistore/store.cgi?page=/new/catalog.html&setup=1&ida=14&idp=0&his=0&cart_id=2166748.5052 I can gurantee you this will stop them when the more common stopping rounds will not. I mix it with Federal Hydra-shock, 1 round federal/one round extreme/federal/extream/federal/ etc.....

On the general use, qualification, range practice, and plinking, side:

Don't get that Cabells stuff, way over priced. You can get a 990 round case for $ 259.99 which means that 1000 round Cabella case is charging you $1.00 a round minimum for 10 rounds in that case, and over all about $0.40 per round.

General use, range, general carry, qualification, and plinking, top of page > The Armory: 223 Ammunition, ammo, Remington, Winchester, Corbon, S&B, PMC, Aguila, Wolf, - look at the '223 Remington (5.56x45mm) 62 gr FMJSCBT SS109 ATI Ammo 990 Round Case' - on sale- 990 round case for $259.99 (about $0.23/round) - Good, accurate and will shoot less than 1 MOA as advertised, a little dirty but no where near as dirty as the Wolf ammo.
 
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TRUTHS; NOT MYTHS:

1. Most M&P15's will shoot just about anything.
2. Steel case ammo is NOT HARD on your extractor.
3. Lacquer or Polymer on the steel case CAN NOT MELT OFF the case and gum up the chamber.
4. Steel does not expand as well as brass, and doesn't seal the chamber as well. Therefor, some carbon/powder blowback goes around the case and makes it a little dirtier. Don't be like the "Macho men" who go 500-1000 rounds without cleaning their rifle.
5. If you aren't into marksmanship, long range competition, and/or reloading, then steel case ammo is an excellent alternative. $3.50-$4.00 per box in bulk is excellent.
6. Those who disagree with this, unfortunately drank the cool-aid and don't know what they're saying. Or, they don't know how to maintain their rifle.

Will EVERY RIFLE on the planet work perfectly with EVERY AMMO on the planet? No it won't. But it's not just steel case ammo. I know plenty of "INDIVIDUAL" pistols and rifles that have issues with certain brass ammo. Doesn't mean the ammo or the weapon are bad. Just not compatible. If your rifle doesn't like Wolf ammo, try a different manufacturer like silver bear, mfs, etc... And NO, not all russian steel case ammo is built by the same company.

Anyway; go to WALMART and pick up some Tula ammo. It costs $4.97 for a box. Pick up a few boxes and go try it out. Maybe go to a local gun shop and buy a different brand of russian. If your rifle likes it; and it probably will, because 99% of all M&P15's will shoot anything; then go online and buy that steel case ammo in bulk.

FWIW: I bought a brand new M&P15OR for christmas. It's been exactly 2 months now, and I have approximately 800 rounds of ammo through it. 700 of those rounds have been steel case ammo. MFS, Tula, Barnaul, herters (cabelas) and silver bear. The steel case is a much softer and thinner steel than any of the steel in your rifle. If that cheap steel in the case is stronger than your rifle's steel, then your rifle has a MAJOR problem.
 
A defective lacquer coating can gum up under heat and use. For example, some Brown Bear ammo was pulled due to a defective lacquer coating. We test fired close to 2,000 of the defective coating rounds before we figured out that the defective lacquer was gumming up and getting into the weapons causing the repeated jams and cycling problems, manufacturer acknowledged the issue to us after they tested the same lot.

Although for quality coatings it generally does not melt off, it can flake off and mix with some lubricants to form a gummy residue that can lead to problems if left in the weapon over repeated firing sessions and the weapons not cleaned. However, a cleaning usually removes it and it does not cause a problem. Some coatings don't even flake and are good quality. Lacquer coatings vary as to quality, simply because something says that lacquer coated rounds don't cause a problem does not mean that you will never experience a problem with a lacquer coated round.

Its like anything else, it can go bad and cause a problem.
 
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I, as well as others, have intentionally taken lacquer and polymer coated brass and hit them with a butane and propane torch. Nothing melted off. And it's very unlikely that your chamber can get as hot as a torch. Not saying that some defective lacquer coating didn't break free and stick to the side of the chamber. But it definitely didn't melt. But if you think your chamber can and did get hotter than a torch, then I don't know what to say.
 
I've gone through thousands of rds of brown bear 7.62 and have never had a problem, though I clean after each session. Reciever will fill up with red flakes but I will sometimes go through 500-600 rds in one outing and have yet to have a malfunction of any kind. I've always chalked it up to an sks being built to fire those kind of rounds. But then that's the only firearm I've used russian ammo in.
 
I've gone through thousands of rds of brown bear 7.62 and have never had a problem, though I clean after each session. Reciever will fill up with red flakes but I will sometimes go through 500-600 rds in one outing and have yet to have a malfunction of any kind. I've always chalked it up to an sks being built to fire those kind of rounds. But then that's the only firearm I've used russian ammo in.

Those are the flake types of which I spoke, but the ones your seeing might be the bullet sealant and thats normal for that type of ammo. You clean after a session so most likely you will not have a problem. We did have a problem with that group we fired, but the lacquer coating was defective and acknowledged by the manufacturer as being defective.

The heat test by applying a torch to the lacquer is not valid testing for the overall weapon use. Other things contribute to the lacquer degradation as well....wear from cycling, the quality of the coating, even the type of lubricant used, just not only heat as the heat is really only a small part of the overall cycle. So just applying heat to it and not seeing it melt away and saying that its all good to go is not the only thing that needs to be done. A defective coating can gum up pretty bad, the coating on the rounds we tested was defective, we removed numerous gummy lumps about half the size of a corn kernal, sort of like small bb's, where it had mixed with carbon residue.

People always refer to "melting away", well no, it doesn't "melt away" like a piece of plactic melting. A lacquer coating has to be some pretty stout stuff to not be affected by heat or sudden mechanical abrasion. It can and does flake off under weapon firing conditions, those flakes when combined with lubricants can form a gummy residue and cause problems if left in the weapon for repeated firings over time. Like I said before, if you clean then you generally have nothing to worry about.

A defective coating only needs a little bit of heat for it to become sticky or gummy, chamber induced heat does not need to be that great for it to happen either. The rounds we had with the defective coating, when the case extracted you could feel the stickiness of the lacquer immediately when the case was ejected (before it cooled completly) and you could tell there was something different with ejecting after a few rounds and thats because the case was basically sticking to things so the ejection was a little different, we even saw a few times where the ejected case would hit the deflector and "delay" there for just the slightest bit and you could tell something wasn't right, thats how sticky it got. That stickiness was the lacquer giving away under the stress of firing and was left in the chamber from round to round and built up until the BCG was affected and slowed slightly in its cycle which led to malfunctions of course. Because the steel casing is a little loose when fired and does not seal as well as a brass casing, each firing allowed more blowback into the chamber, which carried gummy residue into other parts of the chamber and into the BCG. When the group finally stuck back at the half way point in its cycle we stopped the test, removed the bolt, and it actually stuck to an open hand upside down for a few seconds it was so sticky. It was OK for those weapons though because they were weapons for testing anyway and would eventually be fired-to-destruction. In my own weapons I would not use lacquer coated ammo, and we don't use it, or steel casings, in 5.56 tac weapons.

As for steel cases, they don't seal sufficiently to form a good gas seal like brass does and thats what the 5.56 mil-spec chamber tolerances were intended for - a brass casing that sealed when fired. The steel casing not sealing tightly as brass causes a build up of carbon between the casing and chamber that is in excess of that normally expected for the weapon tolerances, evetually leading to malfunctions, and of course cleaning on a regular basis between sessions helps out. The tolerances are pretty close on a 5.56 mil-spec chamber for a narrow taper wall 5.56 mil-spec round. Russian and East bloc weapons were designed with looser tolerances just so they could use steel cased ammo, our american spec'd weapons are closer tolerances and when that carbon build up happens from the steel casing gas seal thing it can cause problems. Anyway, the 5.56 mil-spec chambering was intended for a brass casing that sealed suitably (which is the reason we don't use steel casings in our tac weapons). This is the reason that steel cased ammo like Wolf or the others appear to be more dirty, because of the lack of that seal there is more stuff that gets blown back into the chamber area. However, I think Wolf switched to a polymer coating which helps with the sealing thing some but doesn't completly eliminate it. Although the weapon fires and cycles with steel cased ammo, with steel cased ammo the weapon is not really firing in spec for the chamber tolerances because the chamber isn't sealed properly by the steel cased round upon firing.
 
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Those are the flakes of which I spoke. You clean after a session so most likely you will not have a problem. We did have a problem with that group we fired, but the lacquer coating was defective and acknowledged by the manufacturer as being defective.
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As for steel cases, they don't seal sufficiently to form a good gas seal like brass does and thats what the 5.56 mil-spec chamber tolerances were intended for - a brass casing that sealed when fired. The steel casing not sealing tightly as brass causes a build up of carbon between the casing and chamber that is in excess of that normally expected for the weapon, evetually leading to malfunctions, and of course cleaning on a regular basis between sessions helps out. The tolerances are pretty close on a 5.56 mil-spec chamber for a narrow taper wall 5.56 mil-spec round. Russian and East bloc weapons were designed with looser tolerances just so they could use steel cased ammo, our american spec'd weapons are closer tolerances and when that carbon build up happens from the steel casing gas seal thing it can cause problems. Anyway, the 5.56 mil-spec chambering was intended for a brass casing that sealed suitably (which is the reason we don't use steel casings in our tac weapons). This is the reason that steel cased ammo like Wolf or the others appear to be more dirty, because of the lack of that seal there is more stuff that gets blown back into the chamber area. However, I think Wolf switched to a polymer coating which helps with the sealing thing some.
The red flakes you are seeing, is NOT the same lacquer that the case is coated in. The lacquer the case is coated in, is to prevent it from rusting and/or corroding. The red you see, is the sealant around the primer pocket and at the throat of the case where the bullet sits. It's designed to keep the moisture out of the bullet, where the powder is. You will ALWAYS get the red flakes in your gun. No way around this. Except on the "Newer Ammo", they simply don't seal the primer pocket or throat of the case. This has absolutely nothing to do with the lacquer on the case itself. As for taking care of it; that's simple: "CLEAN THE RIFLE AFTER USE".

As for the steel ammo not fitting fitting in a 5.56 chambered weapon properly, this is simply wrong. No, steel cases don't seal like a brass case. But this has nothing to do with a "Proper" 5.56 chamber. Explain that to the saiga, galil, ak74, and numerous other rifles chambered in military 5.56 that shoots steel ammo almost 100% exclusively. Yes, american rifles tend to be tighter tolerances; this however has nothing to do with the steel case ammo. You are also incorrect that the carbon build up will "EVENTUALLY" cause malfunctions. No it won't. Not cleaning the rifle will; but not the carbon buildup. The bottom line is: If you use steel case ammo; clean the damn thing. I've had quite a few .223/5.56 rifles that have shot in the 10's of 1000's of steel case ammo.

Now; where some people complain about short stroking and similar, is usually on mil-spec rifles with a heavy buffer. Mil-spec means 5.56. The military doesn't shoot .223. 5.56 has higher gas pressure. That, plus the right heavy buffer/spring, and it operates properly. If you are shooting .223 that happens to be significantly less pressure than the 5.56, and you have a heavy buffer/spring, you may have issues with short stroking and not ejecting/feeding properly. Many weapons like the S&W M&P15 have given up on "Some" Mil-Spec standards, because they prefer that the weapon work properly with what it's going to shoot. Most people shoot .223 ammo; not 5.56. So many manufacturers of weapons, will over-gas the gas system. This allows the rifle to chamber with damn near any ammo that you shoot through it. And because the majority is .223 ammo and not 5.56, this is perfect.

Anyway; each weapon is unique. Some don't like a particular brand of ammo. "Steel or Brass is irrelevant". I've seen some weapons that don't like certain brass ammo. Anyway; if your rifle can shoot steel case ammo, then there is absolutely no reason not to shoot it. Simply clean the rifle when you're done shooting it. There is going to be more carbon deposits in the chamber area than with brass ammo. It will not cause any problems or lead to any malfunction if you clean the gun.
 
I have heard that the steel rounds are really hard on the extractor. Is this true?

You couldn't prove it by me. And even if it was, I could care less....the cost of an extractor is recovered in the first couple of boxes of steel cased ammo. (about $12 to $15 for a new one)

I've been shooting nothing but steel cased ammo for the past year in my M&P15 OR. When I go to a training class, I even shoot Hornady's steel cased Training ammo. :D



But, the rounds that I buy, 7.62X39 rounds are less than .27 cents per round, so I don't mind a little extra time cleaning.

I think it is....the last batch I bought at Cabela's cost me 18 cents a round (including tax). If you think 27 cents a round is worth it....I guess 18 cents a round would really be worth it? :)
Not sure it would be worth it on an AR.
 
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The red flakes you are seeing, is NOT the same lacquer that the case is coated in. The lacquer the case is coated in, is to prevent it from rusting and/or corroding. The red you see, is the sealant around the primer pocket and at the throat of the case where the bullet sits. It's designed to keep the moisture out of the bullet, where the powder is. You will ALWAYS get the red flakes in your gun. No way around this. Except on the "Newer Ammo", they simply don't seal the primer pocket or throat of the case. This has absolutely nothing to do with the lacquer on the case itself. As for taking care of it; that's simple: "CLEAN THE RIFLE AFTER USE".

As for the steel ammo not fitting fitting in a 5.56 chambered weapon properly, this is simply wrong. No, steel cases don't seal like a brass case. But this has nothing to do with a "Proper" 5.56 chamber. Explain that to the saiga, galil, ak74, and numerous other rifles chambered in military 5.56 that shoots steel ammo almost 100% exclusively. Yes, american rifles tend to be tighter tolerances; this however has nothing to do with the steel case ammo. You are also incorrect that the carbon build up will "EVENTUALLY" cause malfunctions. No it won't. Not cleaning the rifle will; but not the carbon buildup. The bottom line is: If you use steel case ammo; clean the damn thing. I've had quite a few .223/5.56 rifles that have shot in the 10's of 1000's of steel case ammo.

Now; where some people complain about short stroking and similar, is usually on mil-spec rifles with a heavy buffer. Mil-spec means 5.56. The military doesn't shoot .223. 5.56 has higher gas pressure. That, plus the right heavy buffer/spring, and it operates properly. If you are shooting .223 that happens to be significantly less pressure than the 5.56, and you have a heavy buffer/spring, you may have issues with short stroking and not ejecting/feeding properly. Many weapons like the S&W M&P15 have given up on "Some" Mil-Spec standards, because they prefer that the weapon work properly with what it's going to shoot. Most people shoot .223 ammo; not 5.56. So many manufacturers of weapons, will over-gas the gas system. This allows the rifle to chamber with damn near any ammo that you shoot through it. And because the majority is .223 ammo and not 5.56, this is perfect.

Anyway; each weapon is unique. Some don't like a particular brand of ammo. "Steel or Brass is irrelevant". I've seen some weapons that don't like certain brass ammo. Anyway; if your rifle can shoot steel case ammo, then there is absolutely no reason not to shoot it. Simply clean the rifle when you're done shooting it. There is going to be more carbon deposits in the chamber area than with brass ammo. It will not cause any problems or lead to any malfunction if you clean the gun.

The flakes I saw were the lacquer (actually kinda more brownish looking but red enough). I know what the sealant looks like, that is expected for this brand of ammo. This was not the sealant. You wern't there, so please don't tell me what I saw. I've been doing weapon testing, selection, and tactical use for the last 30 years almost now, with government/military/and now civilian law enforcement. I know unacceptable/defective ammo when I see it. I am not incorrect that the carbon build up can cause malfunctions, you are incorrect in assuming that it can't. You do not need to lecture me on cleaning weapons, i've tested and used literally thousands of all types over the years both american and foreign, some under the most critical of conditions, I think I know a little about cleaning. I even acknowledged that if you clean on a regular basis you should be fine with the steel cased.

This was the lacquer, it was defective, it was acknowledged by the manufacturer as being defective and being the lacquer. Chemical testing revealed it as the lacquer. I'm pretty sure it was the lacquer. Yet your going to tell me that what I saw was not the lacquer?

The issue with steel cases has been tested time and again, the issue exists plain and simple, and trying to wish it away by saying lots of people do it does not mean its not there. You can use what ever ammo you want, i'm not disputing your right to do so. But please don't tell me what I saw and the results of the testing, you wern't there and you don't know.

There is a big difference between using steel case ammo exclusively simply because you want to do so, and it meeting specs. Any weapons manufacturer can say or recommend that, its popular to do that with some grades of weapons. It does not mean that simply because a bullet goes down the bore that everything is all peaches and cream. The mil-spec 5.56 chamber was intended to shoot brass, simply using steel case in it and it working does not mean all the specs are met, because they aren't. The fact that someone can make a steel cased ammo and it works doesn't mean anything. The 5.56 can shoot the SAMMI spec'd .223 but even though you might get away with it you really should not shoot NATO 5.56 in a .223 SAMMI spec'd only weapon, that is enough in its self to outline there is a reason for specs. The steel cased ammo, wolf for example, meets SAMMI specs but it does not meet NATO 5.56 specs and thats what the mil-spec 5.56 chamber is toleranced for - NATO 5.56. Simply because a SAMMI spec steel cased round happens to work also does not mean it meets the mil-spec NATO 5.56 specs. So no, the steel cased round might appear to "fit", and it does physically based upon size, but not firing characteristics for which the mil-spec 5.56 chamber tolerances are intended.

S&W marks the barrel of the OR model weapon with 5.56, not 5.56/.223 or just .223 (maybe they have barrels marked both ways for the OR model, I have not checked into it to make sure but mine is marked 5.56). They mark it that way for a reason, and not just for liability reasons. Its because the weapon was spec'd for 5.56. Sure, you can shoot .223 in it, but its not a recommended practice to shoot NATO 5.56 in weapons marked only .223. In other words, one does not imply the other, and its incorrect to assume it does. Some manufacturers mark their weapons '5.56/.223' but thats not really saying anything, all it says is what we already know, that you can shoot .223 in a 5.56 mil-spec chamber but that does not mean steel cased ammo meets the tolernace specs on firing in the mil-spec chamber regardless of how many people use the steel cased. And of course the manufacturer is going to say the steel cased is recommended, especially with weapons that have their origin with foreign based companies in countries where steel cased ammo is plentiful, or if the steel cased ammo is popular, why wouldn't they as they need to market also to make sales, and part of that is appealing to those that want to do it on a budget and the steel cased just happens in many cases to be cheaper. So yeah they are going to recommend it, but it doesn't mean its in firing specs for a mil-spec 5.56 chamber, it just happens to work. There is one reason, among many, why the majority of ammo for 5.56 on the market is brass cased, its because the manufacturers know the 5.56 mil-spec chamber was intended to use brass. Sure, it could be made specifically for steel, but it isn't. Even the east block countries acknowldge the difference in the steel cased ammo, and as a result their military weapon tolerances are not as tight as american tolerances to account for that difference and the carbon build up, they even know the issues that excess carbon build up between the chamber and the round can cause from steel cases because they know they don't seal that well so they have looser tolerances to account for it so the weapon keeps working. Yet your trying to tell me that the whole east block was wrong, that their whole arms industry for military small arms was wrong?

I never said that my rifle could not shoot steel case, i'm sure it would, I said that I would not use it in my weapons. We don't use it in 5.56 spec'd tac weapons because of legal liability issues. If the ammo is outside the specs for the weapon then the weapon is legally considered not in spec, and if a shooting happens with it and the out of spec ammo is used then the shooting, although justified, could be ruled as "unlawful" because the weapon was technically not in spec at the time with the steel cased ammo. The reason it would not be in spec is because its a known fact that the steel cased ammo does not seal properly per the specs for the 5.56 tolerances and that is backed by years of lab testing that proves it.

Wolf ammo, for example, added the polymer coating in an attempt to solve the sealing issue with the steel case. The ploymer, in theory, is supposed to tighten up the seal some (although it doesn't really make it all the way). If there was not an issue then why does the manufacturer acknowledge it with changing the coating? Its just not corrosion because the lacquer would take care of that and be eaiser and cheaper to use. Its because they knew the issue existed, and they had to market to the american market, and to those who posess american made weapons in other parts of the world as well, so this is their solution to do that. Wolf even acknowledges that the polymer coating is their solution for this issue.

These were test weapons we tested with and I gave the results of that testing, no i did not give all the pictures, pressure tests, charts, emails back and forth with the manufacturer, record of phone calls with the manufacturer, their letter of acknowledgement and their own test results confirming, and test results from the lab, but yeah, i'm pretty sure it was lacquer. It was defective lacquer like I already said. I believe a weapon should be in spec when it fires and the ammo should match the platform in all respects, that goes for every thing from the shooter to the ammo. When I resource a weapon I expect everything to be in spec, i've learned the valuable lessons from the past of what happens when its not. I could probably run 50% ethanol in my vehicles too, but it it would not meet the specs for a gasolene only engine even if it did work and does not mean its correct for the vehicle just because it runs.

I'm not debating if the ammo should or should not be used, just stating fact born out by testing by not only myself but many others as well over the years, and every time substantiated by new testing that shows the same results, and acknowldged by manufacturing practices in countries that developed the weapons to specifically use the steel case (the soviet and east block), and in a way the steel cased ammo manufacture for the subject ammo their self when they say it meets SAMMi specs and in some cases going to the expense and cost of changing the coating just to solve the issue. You sound like I hurt your feelings or something. Go and shoot steel cased to your hearts content.
 
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And you weren't there when BeginningofTheEnd mentioned his red flakes, so don't automatically assume it was the lacquer, and not the sealant.

Dragon: You said +1 for Sound Reasoning and information; to fox's statement of: "In my own weapons I would not use lacquer coated ammo, and we don't use it, or steel casings, in 5.56 tac weapons". My question is: "What is the "Sound Reasoning" that you are referring to".

I am not saying that anyone must or should use steel case ammo. Each weapon is unique in it's individuality. But the opposite opinion of "Steel ammo sucks" (Paraphrased) is equally wrong. In all the years of listening to people talk about steel case ammo; especially in their AR's, I have found that many of them (NOT INCLUDING YOU OR FOX) is simply repeating what they've heard. They have 0 experience with shooting steel case ammo. Also; the majority of the so called damage or harm supposedly coming from using steel case ammo is almost non-existent. Basically, they claim a broken extractor or similar act on the steel case ammo; when in fact, the extractor could have broken, and probably would have, even with using brass case ammo.

Point is: People are free to shoot whatever ammo they want to. They are free to spend as much or as little money as they want to on their ammo. Just like they are free to spend $600-$2600 on the AR that they are shooting. But if you take all the PRO steel case ammo experiences, and compare them to the CON Steel case ammo experiences, it appears that there's been many more positive experiences with the ammo than negative. "Unless you're a Bushmaster owner; then there appears to be a disproportionate amount of negative experiences".
 
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