I have a few s&w revolvers (686 plus, 60, etc) and I was wondering if there was any known reputable buisness that do trigger work (more smooth and preferable a trigger pull in double action around 9 pounds to 11?). Would it be better to do it to a new production s&w over one of my older ones or does it not matter? Mainly considering it on a snub j frame or considering buying one that already has work done or new for the purpose of concealed carry. I never had a issue with the triggers but a few of my friends dispised the trigger on them and after having a rifle with trigger work that made it so much easier to hit accurate, I wanted to do that to a backup carry J frame. I'm mainly looking for what would it cost roughly as I've only found 2 sites that seem to offer it and a load of horror stories of people not replacing the spring but clipping them or something along those lines. Thanks.
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Where to go for trigger jobs?
- Thread starter Skully128
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I had a Combat Action Package performed on two revolvers, a 19 and a 64, by Smith and Wesson.
Part of that is a work over of the action and both came back very nice and very smooth. Of course i am talking about 10-12 years ago or a little more.
I also purchased a PC442 and the trigger on it was excellent out of the box as well. And it only got better with use.
If it is a newer J Frame many times the DA pull smooths out greatly with time and use. Maybe consider some time with Snap Caps dry firing and see if that helps it get smoother.
Good luck.
Part of that is a work over of the action and both came back very nice and very smooth. Of course i am talking about 10-12 years ago or a little more.
I also purchased a PC442 and the trigger on it was excellent out of the box as well. And it only got better with use.
If it is a newer J Frame many times the DA pull smooths out greatly with time and use. Maybe consider some time with Snap Caps dry firing and see if that helps it get smoother.
Good luck.
I would second the Factory Combat Revolver Package but I also had my revolver worked on over 15 years ago so can’t speak to current work. But it includes bead blasting the gun which might not be your cup of tea. They offer a trigger job separately. Here is a link.
https://www.smith-wesson.com/customer-service/performance-center-precision-gunsmithing
https://www.smith-wesson.com/customer-service/performance-center-precision-gunsmithing
TK Custom will do excellent work and guarantee their work.
I am likely going to send my 66 and 19 snubs into S&W for an action job.
As they still offer it, I am thinking they must have at least an employee or two remaining who knows how to fluff up a revolver, ha!
I sold off a 66 snub that had been back to S&W for action job and it was fantastic!
As they still offer it, I am thinking they must have at least an employee or two remaining who knows how to fluff up a revolver, ha!
I sold off a 66 snub that had been back to S&W for action job and it was fantastic!
Good luck; I had to send a new, 442 Pro Series back to Smith for action "catching." Got it back and still needed an action job.
TK Custom has done action work on several of my Smiths: 442, 610, 686, PC1911 and others; Every job was top notch.
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Glenn54
Member
Following.
Has anyone done both? I think for a snub I'll do tk customs. Though my grandfathers 686-4 plus he gave me I am not sure if the basic at tk customs would be better or the s&w combat revolver package for that. Does anyone with experience I
With both have thoughts? Also I know I wouldn't be doing this for a while because A I'm moving to a more gun friendly state soon and B ill probably buy another gun (or maybe a new snub to get trigger work done to not wear out a old snub)
With both have thoughts? Also I know I wouldn't be doing this for a while because A I'm moving to a more gun friendly state soon and B ill probably buy another gun (or maybe a new snub to get trigger work done to not wear out a old snub)
madmikeb
SWCA Member
I can't speak for TK Customs action work but I've had them cut a few cylinders for me for moonclips. The turnaround was not much more then a week and the work was top-notch.
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My wife buys her own handguns and last years she brought home a S&W EDC kit that had a solid cylinder 357mag 360 J snubby in it . 14.7oz version airweight . That little revolver looked great , well finished , nice cylinder gap od 7ths but had a awful trigger with a 6.5lb SA pull and over 13lb pull I ended up using an old fish scale on to try get close on the DA pull .
I am a long time user of Apex Tactical kits for m&p pistols after dealing with "trigger finger " surgery on my index and middle finger but fingers strength is less but at least I have a smooth trigger pull again . I called apex an after a short talk with them about there J frame kit I bought one .
Installing the kit was not a problem and with that done my wife and I shot some of my lite 357mag reloads with some wolf small rifle primers to be sure it fired them reliably and it has been for 200 rounds so far . Nether of use carry revolvers but nice to have a small revolver my wife now likes .
With the Apex J frame kit installed at home using a Lyman digital scale the DA trigger pull is now at 7lb 14oz to 8lb 3oz . The wider variation is do to me attempting to hold it stead while pulling the thru the DA trigger stroke . The SA pull is 2lb.01 oz to 2lb 2oz . That should please anyone and at a cost of 30 bucks plus shipping and a less than an hour's time.
I did end up changing grips to a hogue over rubber mono grip as my wife hated the nice wood grip on it. Nice to have the back strap covered for warmer carry ammo too.
Apex Tactical J frame kit linked below -
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Try doing it yourself
Skully,
It is very easy to greatly improve the double action trigger pull on an S&W revolver.
On any non-j Frame, simply replacing the mainspring with a reduced power spring will accomplish the most noticeable results, is easy to do, and is inexpensive. You can get them online from a number of sources.
The most important thing is to use properly fitting screw drivers to get the side plate off. There are plenty of videos on the web that show you how. You can do more, like polish the contact points on the hammer, trigger, and rebound assembly, but that requires a bit more fiddly disassembly, and dry firing several hundred times will often take care of that.
On a j frame, replacing the coiled mainspring works well in reducing double action trigger pull, but can lead to reliability issues. I have done many for my range guns, but would not do it for any of my carry guns. Replacing the rebound spring and polishing the contact points (or a lot of dry firing) will get you some noticeable gains but that will require some additional disassembly. Not hard, but the first couple times always seem hard. Again, lots of videos out there.
As someone who is not particularly mechanically inclined but a dedicated revolver shooter, I learned how to do it many years ago. I can do one now in less than half an hour with very good results.
You can too.
Skully,
It is very easy to greatly improve the double action trigger pull on an S&W revolver.
On any non-j Frame, simply replacing the mainspring with a reduced power spring will accomplish the most noticeable results, is easy to do, and is inexpensive. You can get them online from a number of sources.
The most important thing is to use properly fitting screw drivers to get the side plate off. There are plenty of videos on the web that show you how. You can do more, like polish the contact points on the hammer, trigger, and rebound assembly, but that requires a bit more fiddly disassembly, and dry firing several hundred times will often take care of that.
On a j frame, replacing the coiled mainspring works well in reducing double action trigger pull, but can lead to reliability issues. I have done many for my range guns, but would not do it for any of my carry guns. Replacing the rebound spring and polishing the contact points (or a lot of dry firing) will get you some noticeable gains but that will require some additional disassembly. Not hard, but the first couple times always seem hard. Again, lots of videos out there.
As someone who is not particularly mechanically inclined but a dedicated revolver shooter, I learned how to do it many years ago. I can do one now in less than half an hour with very good results.
You can too.
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Yendor357
Member
I realize that this being primarily a S&W forum, that the original title implied “Where to go for trigger jobs (on S&W)”. So what I have to add is a bit off topic. But first, I have about a dozen S&Ws, 645, 4506, 4566, M41, N,L,K frames.
The 645 could use a little help. But I’ve never even considered any action work on any of the rest. They all still have the factory springs in them. Nobody does actions better than Smith.
Now, off topic, a bit: Cajun Gun Works. They do CZs. I can’t say enough good about that crew. You want an all steel combat ready 9mm with the single action trigger that is every bit as good as the one on your Model 41, get a CZ 75B and send it and $475 to CGW. The single action pull on mine is 2.5 pounds, and after you take up the slack inherent in most semi auto pistol designs. You will not feel that trigger move. It just goes off. DA is just under 7 pounds.
If you know a gunsmith looking for work, encourage Him to learn to do a single action trigger job on the new Colt Snakes. That alone will earn a good living, for the time being at least.
The 645 could use a little help. But I’ve never even considered any action work on any of the rest. They all still have the factory springs in them. Nobody does actions better than Smith.
Now, off topic, a bit: Cajun Gun Works. They do CZs. I can’t say enough good about that crew. You want an all steel combat ready 9mm with the single action trigger that is every bit as good as the one on your Model 41, get a CZ 75B and send it and $475 to CGW. The single action pull on mine is 2.5 pounds, and after you take up the slack inherent in most semi auto pistol designs. You will not feel that trigger move. It just goes off. DA is just under 7 pounds.
If you know a gunsmith looking for work, encourage Him to learn to do a single action trigger job on the new Colt Snakes. That alone will earn a good living, for the time being at least.
Cotis
SWCA Member
I have gone completely down the rabbit hole in the past week, tooling up to do my own action jobs on my revolvers. I have a few that I just do not like the look and feel of the trigger engagement surfaces, even after doing spring kit conversions.
I have purchased the Power Custom Series 1 stoning fixture, both adapters for J, K, L, and N frames, Norton India stone blocks in various grits, very fine grit whetstones, and Jerry Kuhnhausen's 5th edition S&W shop manual.
I am really looking forward to working on my revolvers over the next month or two as I have time.
I have purchased the Power Custom Series 1 stoning fixture, both adapters for J, K, L, and N frames, Norton India stone blocks in various grits, very fine grit whetstones, and Jerry Kuhnhausen's 5th edition S&W shop manual.
I am really looking forward to working on my revolvers over the next month or two as I have time.
I advocate for people learning to do basic ork on their own revolvers, simply because good revolver smiths are a dying breed and hard to find and it will only get worse.
I agree with replacing the rebound spring and making sure there are no high spots on frame or side plate rubbing on the slide, or the hammer and trigger where they mate to the stud bosses on the frame and side plate. Also check the sides of the hammer for drag marks from rubbing on either the frame or side plate, a thin shim on placed on the stud on which ever side is dragging will alleviate that. You need to have .001-.002 endshake and at least .004 barrel to cylinder gap and no burrs on yoke tube. IF there is a hitch in the trigger right as it locks up that is cause by a long tooth on the ratchet causing the hand to bind against the side off the frame slot as it forces its way past the tooth. Usually a bunch of dry firing will wear the tooth so it quits. Once it wears down enough to smooth out, the wear slows way down as the pressure against the tooth goes away. IF there is a hitch in the beginning of the DA trigger pull that is the length of the DA sear. I wouldn't recommend most people mess with that unless they are willing to replace the DA sear if they mess up. I have never found the need to mess with the sears on trigger and hammer. Another thing I have seen on new revolvers is burrs on the top face of those teeth. Those should be taken off with a very fine file. DO NOT remove metal from the round portion that surrounds the center pin as that is what sets your cylinders head space. It needs to be smooth though. That and a straight ejector rod and your good to go.
I have also messed with mainsprings both coil and flat, but it is always best to error way on the side of reliable over light. Smooth is far and away more important than light. You better off working one of those grip exercising deals then chasing the lightest trigger possible.
I agree with replacing the rebound spring and making sure there are no high spots on frame or side plate rubbing on the slide, or the hammer and trigger where they mate to the stud bosses on the frame and side plate. Also check the sides of the hammer for drag marks from rubbing on either the frame or side plate, a thin shim on placed on the stud on which ever side is dragging will alleviate that. You need to have .001-.002 endshake and at least .004 barrel to cylinder gap and no burrs on yoke tube. IF there is a hitch in the trigger right as it locks up that is cause by a long tooth on the ratchet causing the hand to bind against the side off the frame slot as it forces its way past the tooth. Usually a bunch of dry firing will wear the tooth so it quits. Once it wears down enough to smooth out, the wear slows way down as the pressure against the tooth goes away. IF there is a hitch in the beginning of the DA trigger pull that is the length of the DA sear. I wouldn't recommend most people mess with that unless they are willing to replace the DA sear if they mess up. I have never found the need to mess with the sears on trigger and hammer. Another thing I have seen on new revolvers is burrs on the top face of those teeth. Those should be taken off with a very fine file. DO NOT remove metal from the round portion that surrounds the center pin as that is what sets your cylinders head space. It needs to be smooth though. That and a straight ejector rod and your good to go.
I have also messed with mainsprings both coil and flat, but it is always best to error way on the side of reliable over light. Smooth is far and away more important than light. You better off working one of those grip exercising deals then chasing the lightest trigger possible.
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Lucnic
Member
I’ve replaced the springs in my J frame and Taurus revolvers myself. This, and dry firing with snap caps, have given good results. It’s not custom shop smooth but I wouldn’t want that on a carry gun anyway.
