m41
Member
I am looking to purchase a 586 4" and I was wondering which model was the best the 586 no dash thru the 586-7
Which 586
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Caution....opinion follows:
I personally would prefer something stainless. For the blued variety though, I would rather have a model built prior to the changover to the new yoke retention system which was the -3 in 1988. I also am not a fan of the "floating hand" fiasco in the -1. So my first choice would be the no dash, followed by the -2. (in the 586) Find one you like....they are great revolvers.
Speaking from an armorer's viewpoint, the only "achilles heel" in the L-frame is the cylinder stop, which has a lot to handle with that comparatively heavy cylinder. With careful, respectful handling and regular maintenance, the gun will last several lifetimes.
I personally would prefer something stainless. For the blued variety though, I would rather have a model built prior to the changover to the new yoke retention system which was the -3 in 1988. I also am not a fan of the "floating hand" fiasco in the -1. So my first choice would be the no dash, followed by the -2. (in the 586) Find one you like....they are great revolvers.
Speaking from an armorer's viewpoint, the only "achilles heel" in the L-frame is the cylinder stop, which has a lot to handle with that comparatively heavy cylinder. With careful, respectful handling and regular maintenance, the gun will last several lifetimes.
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HOUSTON RICK
Member
They are good revolvers. I opt for stainless most of the time. Blue is pretty, stainless is practical. Reasonable use and maintenance will allow it to endure. I have had this one for a long time and take it to the range often, today as a matter of fact. I don't think the dash number so much matters matters as long as you get the finish and barrel length that you like.
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Dieseltech56
Member
I understand why one wouldn't like the new floating hand but what's wrong with the new yoke retention system?
Matt,
I don't like the way it arbitrarily restricts the position of the yoke in the cylinder assembly pushing it rearward, and the resulting adverse negative effect this has on free cylinder rotation. I personally like hand fitting the yoke button to the piloted yoke screw, as opposed to submitting to a plunger and spring which cannot be adjusted.
Ever wonder why the new guns with this system don't have the exceptional free spinning cylinder assemblies any more like the older revolvers did? The "new and improved" yoke retention system is why.
The "new" plunger/spring retention system also allows the yoke to move forward during recoil and batter the frame directly under the barrel extension. The resulting artifacts are sometimes severe, particularly on alloy and scandium frames.....especially the magnums.
In my opinion the "new" yoke retention system is not superior to the yoke button and screw, but was designed to save money by removing the fitting necessary with the old system.
I don't like the way it arbitrarily restricts the position of the yoke in the cylinder assembly pushing it rearward, and the resulting adverse negative effect this has on free cylinder rotation. I personally like hand fitting the yoke button to the piloted yoke screw, as opposed to submitting to a plunger and spring which cannot be adjusted.
Ever wonder why the new guns with this system don't have the exceptional free spinning cylinder assemblies any more like the older revolvers did? The "new and improved" yoke retention system is why.
The "new" plunger/spring retention system also allows the yoke to move forward during recoil and batter the frame directly under the barrel extension. The resulting artifacts are sometimes severe, particularly on alloy and scandium frames.....especially the magnums.
In my opinion the "new" yoke retention system is not superior to the yoke button and screw, but was designed to save money by removing the fitting necessary with the old system.
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gkitch
Member
I prefer the 586 too. I just never warmed to stainless.
I look for something that still has the forged hammer and trigger with the firing pin there on the hammer where it belongs. I think the -5 and prior follow this.
Also, I have found guns made in the late 80s and early 90s to be very good. It seems to have been an era when quality and technology peaked.
I look for something that still has the forged hammer and trigger with the firing pin there on the hammer where it belongs. I think the -5 and prior follow this.
Also, I have found guns made in the late 80s and early 90s to be very good. It seems to have been an era when quality and technology peaked.
Mehutch
Member
Get both... if ya can.
357 shooter
Member
I "accidently" won an auction on a 4" 586-8 last year and then not too long afterwards intentionally won a 4" 586-4 . I like the -4 better and it fits in well with my 686-4 2.5" and 6".
Andy Taylor
Member
The -4 and earlier have the forged parts. Those are my preference. -5 begins with the MIM parts.
LOL for me the Stainless 686s are for shooting and the Blue 586s are for looking at like a piece of rock candy.
I'm kind of partial to my four inch -5 586 factory round butt.
I'm kind of partial to my four inch -5 586 factory round butt.
Me too, I like the -5 new frame style.
And yes, I switched the thumb piece to a full size one. Added the Ahrends Cocobolo too.
And yes, I switched the thumb piece to a full size one. Added the Ahrends Cocobolo too.
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grip frame
Member
586-3 and 586-4 are the best without question IMO with an honorable mention to the rare 586-5. Same in the 686 series.
Can't go wrong with any 586 - I prefer no dash to dash 4.
There are those who passionately believe in stainless steel. Not me. Put me down for the 586 in beautiful blue every time. The earlier the better. If you are going to put it in a holster every day for a couple decades, well, OK, I get that. Blue holds up to wear better than some imagine. How many of you are really going to carry an L frame every day? And what's prettier than this? Shoot it all day long with your choice of ammo - mild to wild - pass it down to your grandkids.
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I've got a 586-3, circa 1989, that I am rather fond of. It's a 4" round butt, with a glass bead finish. According to The Catalog, only 2,500 of this variety were made. It's always had a hitch at the end of the DA pull, and I disassembled it about a week ago to investigate. I'm in the process of smoothing the internals and converting from floating hand to standard. It's a keeper! I have 2 other L-frames, but both stainless.
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