Which model 66 is most desirable, dash ? or no dash?

RedCardinal

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2005
Messages
747
Reaction score
655
Location
South Carolina
I am mostly a semi-auto fan but would like to acquire a k frame 2 1/2 or 3 inch for concealed carry. I have a 686-4 with six inch barrel for hotter 357 rounds. I am seeking the shorter lighter model 66. I will probably use 38+P most of the time, so which version of the model 66 would be the most desireable and why? Thanks
 
Register to hide this ad
What he said ^^^^^^^ and the -1s still have the recessed cylinders and pinned barrels. From a collectors standpoint I personally wouldn't go any higher in dash numbers.
 
I've always liked the earliest versions (with stainless or black rear sights) as they were still pinned/recessed and the trademark stamping was still on the side plate.
 
Is the 66-3 2 1/2", hard to come by?

Not if I have one :)

100_1571.jpg
 
I have been watchng some 66s on gunbroker, from what I have seen 66-1 2.5" sell around $550, 66-2 2.5" around $475, and there is 66-3 3" on there now at 875.00 with 7 days left. The 3 inchers seem to bring the money, and I know why, they are my favorite to..
 
Not that it helps the direct question at hand, but I can share my 66 no-dash, stainless rear sight experience. Walked into my local gunshop and was handed it by the clerk. I looked it over, checked the normal checks and asked "may I try the trigger?" She said "sure." The next words out of my mouth was, "I'll take it!" I can't speak for the -1 models, etc, but my 66 no dash is superb. Excellent feel, balance, lock-up, trigger and accuracy (probably due to the excellent trigger).
 
The main reason for the post was to determine the dash versions with the features that are desireable or to avoid such as the "floating hand", MIM parts, frame mounted firing pin, etc. I know these features have been discussed in various other threads, but is there one dash version that has the most of the desirable features?
 
I'm not sure if you'll want a P&R model. Getting the rounds to drop flush into the cylinder recess on a speed reload could be a little more difficult than on a non-recessed cylinder (something I've experienced).

And unless your just completely against the new guns, you may want to look at the 315 NG or even a no lock 340. Weight plays a factor in all day carry. And the J frame only gives up one round in a much lighter and smaller package.
 
Last edited:
I lucked into a no-dash a couple of years ago. Mine is the standard 4" model with all stainless sights. It's a wonderful gun and the all stainless sights are a distinctive feature that sets the gun apart from almost anything that Smith made (I believe the early 67s also had stainless sights but I could be wrong about that). I'll never sell mine. BUT, be aware, those stainless sights can be a problem in certain types of light. Strong backlighting will often reflect off the front sight and it will tend to wash out to the point of becoming almost invisible. So, the gun is totally cool, but not as practical as are those with blued or blackened sights.

Smith changed the sights from all stainless to blued shortly after they began selling the 66 and I wouldn't be surprised if they did so due to customer complaints about poor sight pictures in certain lighting.
 
Well, I am using the 627 PC UDR as a sort of standard because it has a frame mounted firing pin and it is not pinned and recessed. So why not the 66-5 which is similar? Are the MIM parts that undesireable? The 66-3 has the floating hand but ones with 3 inch barrels are fetching aroung $1,000 on GunBroker. I gather from this that the 3 inch barrel is the driving factor on the price. Does the same logic hold true for the 627 PC UDR with the frame mounted firing pin? The only feature on current production that I just cannot tolerate is the internal lock. All of the others, I have divided into traditional and technological. For my purposes, the forged hammer and trigger, the pinned barrel and recessed cylinder, and the firing pin on the hammer are traditional. The MIM parts and frame mounted firing pin are technological. Therefore, any of these without the internal lock will serve my purpose, and the only thing I will have to deal with is the price.
 
Hi,
I agree that the early dash series are the most desired and worth more. But I acquired a 66-4 4 inch for $300 and is one of my best revolvers. The revolver is a pre-lock and has the firing pin on the hammer. The trigger is very good and is close to my older pinned and recessed revolvers. With prices climbing on K frame magnums you can still get a good shooter for a reasonable price.
Howard
model66-4.jpg
 
I'll second the 66-4. Last of the everything you need and nothing you don't 66's. Regards 18DAI
 
::: which version of the model 66 would be the most desireable and why? Thanks


For carry? I'd say probably anyone that puts rounds on target for you. I picked up a used & tuned 66-2 a while back, and put new grips on it. Here is a pic of it with a sidekick J frame. Both are great snubbys.


1b4cd0eb.jpg
 
Last edited:
66-4 mostly traditional but as your eyes change you have the option of going with a red dot w/o needing a trip to the gunsmith. Then there are those Hogue grips, like blood type you are either Hogue positive or Hogue negative, I am Hogue positive.

JMHO/YMMV
 

Latest posts

Back
Top