Which S&W do you trust your life with: a home and on the street?

I'll give if Massad Ayoob says it, he's no doubt an expert. I've shot 20 gauge guns at clay events and I don't feel much difference than my 12s and I've heard the same thing from countless other clay shooters. But I can't substantiate my opinion, so I'll give. However, he validates my other point. 75% of the lead of the 12 ga, a significant amount less. A 20 ga can't do everything a 12 ga can. Also, with proper fit and stance, follow up shots should not be an issue either regarding muzzle rise.
 
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Cocking it first might help...

I find that a revolver is actually harder to use for "any skill level". Between the small black sights and the trigger pull ifs harder to hit accurately. I have proven that twice by letting my father and sister shoot my revolvers. Having never shot one neither of them could consistently hit the target at any range except point blank. Even at 10 ft away the shots were all over the place with the first few being close but complete misses. When switching over to semi autos they were not able to get any kind of groupings but we're able to consistently hit the chest and stomach area with only an occasional flyer.

Semi autos can sit loaded indefinitely as well, have better sights and triggers.

My carry guns have to have night sights. A revolver in the dark is not a good idea. And be reliable. I carry Glocks and HKs.

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None of my revolvers have more then a 3.5 lb. trigger pull when cocked. Out of the box my 686 had a 3 to 3.25 lb trigger in single action. Sounds like they were using double action or needed some coaching. But even in double action the S&W is the sweetest pull I have found yet.
 
Yes double action. I don't use single action because it's useless in SD. No one is going to bother cocking the hammer each time while trying to defend themselves

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75% of the lead of the 12 ga, a significant amount less. A 20 ga can't do everything a 12 ga can. Also, with proper fit and stance, follow up shots should not be an issue either regarding muzzle rise.

75% of the lead is not a substantial loss. That's analogous to the difference between a .45 JHP and a .40 JHP. In either case, placement is going to be king. Any way you slice it, a 40% increase in recoil is going to be noticeable and substantial--that's analogous to the recoil difference between a steel K frame .38 and a J frame airweight. (Firing the same load.)
 
Seriouslly??? You'd ask for the ammo to be replaced? :eek:

Yes, because in my county people who shot dogs attacking livestock were compensated for the livestock and the ammo used by the dog owner. I might not get it, a lot depends on the deputy involved but I'd sure ask.
 
Yes, because in my county people who shot dogs attacking livestock were compensated for the livestock and the ammo used by the dog owner. I might not get it, a lot depends on the deputy involved but I'd sure ask.

I knew you meant it, but some folks who've lived primarily in urban areas wouldn't.

;)
 
I knew you meant it, but some folks who've lived primarily in urban areas wouldn't.

;)

With ammo prices as high they are, nothing ventured nothing gained. It wasn't long ago that .223/5.56 was trading at a buck a round. I'd want compensation too at those rates.
 
EDC

Or a Seecamp .380

Home
M&P 9Pro 5 inch 17+1

Not my photo, but I like it



This isn't too far afield.



12 and 9 my top choices
 
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75% of the lead is not a substantial loss. That's analogous to the difference between a .45 JHP and a .40 JHP. In either case, placement is going to be king. Any way you slice it, a 40% increase in recoil is going to be noticeable and substantial--that's analogous to the recoil difference between a steel K frame .38 and a J frame airweight. (Firing the same load.)

Slice it as you may, 25% is substantial. Some will say the difference between a 40 and 45 cal is significant. Would you rather have 5 shots of 45cal or 5 shots of 40cal.

Just FYI, my airweight J frame is no problem recoil wise to me.

Bottom line is I'd venture to guess there are a ton more 12ga shotguns out there sitting in closets for HD purposes than 20ga. That's for a reason.
 
For concealed carry my NAA Wasp for rule #1 (have a gun) and BUG (back up gun) for my S&W 640 38spl. At home my 640 with my 12 guage 870 with 00 buck ready to go. Reloads for all easily accessed. I'm not a collector, just have enough to get the job done. I took a peek in a friend's gun safe today, $50 grand in firearms, 62 handguns.. # of long guns, who knows. That's the most I've seen privately owned. As I told him, a way better investment than my motorcycle passion and I've easily spent that on 2 wheels in my life time. Back on topic, I trust all of my guns (6), each within their capabilities and have no intention of ever parting with them while I can still take on air and feed myself.

Stay safe, John
 
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Duty sidearm is a M&P in 45 ACP. At home in the man cave 4506 (former duty sidearm).
 
At home the reliable standby was the model 64 DA only. [The model 64 shoots as smooth as silk.] I then got a 686 plus performance model in the .357. Got the 686 because it could handle both the .357 and the .38SP and held 7. The extra shot might come in handy someday.

My regular carry revolver is a model 10-5 with a laser attached. Heavier than most carry weapons, but I am learning to handle it well, I think. I recently got a new holster with the help of the holster forum that works very well with the revolver and has made concealed carry easy for me in most situations.
 
This old M&P stays by my bedside and the model 40 usualy bums along with me running around town. The HD conversion to 44 special go`s on the trails sometimes. I have better but these can do the job and I dont stress scuffing them up.






 
Night stand lock box: Glock 17 with light/laser on the rail
EDC: Kel Tec .32 or .380, depending on what I'm wearing
Bugout bag in truck: Glock 26 and Kel Tec Sub2000
Carry around bug out bag: 6906

Always handy: 3 Mossberg riot guns with pistol grips in .410, 20 gauge and 12 gauge.
 
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