Which Tacticool converter to install Troy Alpha rail?

[Hearsedriver]

I'm about to order an 11" Troy Alpha rail for my 15-22 and wondering which Tacticool converter I need in order to mount it flush with the receiver? Standard or Modified or does it matter? I figure ill need to remove all or part of the tabs on the receiver. If someone here has actually installed the Alpha or similar rail, please chime in. Thanks

 

[tacticool22]

You will need the modified one to get the smallest gap and to have the anti rotation tab back far enough to catch the picatinny rail.
You can't actually get flush with the front of the picatinny rail. You can get flush only with the lower part of the upper.

 

[Hearsedriver]

Great! Thanks. What is the difference between the 2 converters? They look the same in the pictures.

 

[tacticool22]

The "standard" converter requires no modification to your rifle.
The difference is stated in the "modified" listing
Right around the middle in large orange letters

This item requires permanent modification of your upper. The bottom hand guard alignment tab needs to be removed and the top hand guard alignment tab needs to almost completely removed.

The back of the free float hand guard or delta ring barrel nut will almost touch the bottom portion and be .1 inch or 2.5mm away from the top part.

 

[Hearsedriver]

Right. I was wondering what the physical difference was between the 2 converters.

 

[straightshooter47]

It can be done, but it still requires some machine work to the standard AR barrel nut and a relief cut on the VTAC rail to close the gap completely. Closing the little gap is required to bring the reciever and handguard picatinny notches into compliance with picatinny dimensions if you run some sort of picatinny accessory that bridges the two components (or if you're anal retentive about the small space between the two...both conditions existed with me)...you will need the 1A converter

 

[tacticool22]

The physical difference is the 1A (modified) converter has a deeper counter bore so it goes further onto the upper.

 

[yugowego]

it can be done, but it still requires some machine work to the standard AR barrel nut and a relief cut on the VTAC rail...you will need the 1A converter...

I didnt have to modify my barrel nut but did relief cut my rail...

 

[Hearsedriver]

Thanks Jody. I just ordered the modified kit (wink-wink) : )

 

[Armanius]

That's a sweet looking M&P there with the VTAC!! What size is that VTAC?

I didnt have to modify my barrel nut but did relief cut my rail...

 

[yugowego]

That's a sweet looking M&P there with the VTAC!! What size is that VTAC?

15" version

 

[Armanius]

15" version

Does putting the VTAC make the MP15-22 significantly front heavy, given that the body is so light?

 

[Hearsedriver]

I doubt it. Those rails are aluminum and fairly light weight. I've got a Magpul ALS stock on mine which is heavier than the factory stock so, it should feel pretty balanced. Plus, I'm installing the 11" VTAC.

 

[Armanius]

I have a 13" Troy Alpha with sights on my real AR, and it did make my AR a little bit more front heavy than the plastic two piece handguard. I probably should replace the original stock with something nicer and heavier to balance things out.

 

[tacticool22]

Right. I was wondering what the physical difference was between the 2 converters.

Besides a deeper counterbore, the 1A (modified) has 4 holes for the spanner wrench instead of 3

 

[yugowego]

Does putting the VTAC make the MP15-22 significantly front heavy, given that the body is so light?

I actually think it balances out the rifle better

 

[BiggieXD]

It can be done, but it still requires some machine work to the standard AR barrel nut and a relief cut on the VTAC rail to close the gap completely. Closing the little gap is required to bring the reciever and handguard picatinny notches into compliance with picatinny dimensions if you run some sort of picatinny accessory that bridges the two components (or if you're anal retentive about the small space between the two...both conditions existed with me)...you will need the 1A converter

What machine work did you have to do to the standard barrel nut? I have the 15" troy alpha rail and the problem i'm having are when i go to twist the rail, the standard barrel nut comes loose while also leaving a pretty decent gap when tightening the screws. The rail starts off flush with the upper, but then the gap widens as i tighten the three screws. Any help would be gladly appreciated!!

 

[Rob1]

I have also fitted the Alpha Rail on mine. Machine work was done with the AR barrel nut to remove some of the back edge of the nut (cut off almost to the groove) AND removed most of the internal shoulder of the nut to allow clearance over the modified Adapter Nut from Tacticool.

I Have ZERO gap on mine once the cuts are made to the Rail to allow for clearance round the takedown pin on upper/lower.

Straight shooter took the time to send me the details of how to do it ( BIG shout out there. Thank you very much)
Take your time, be patient and measure measure and measure again.
Oh and the material of the AR barrel nut is HARD !!!!

I did mine with a Dremmel and a friend helped with a lathe for the AR barrel nut work.

You should also note, to get flush you may need to trim some of the plastic from the two index lugs for the factory HG, AND if you take too much from the AR nut you MIGHT need to use a shin. I didn’t but worth having around incase you do need one or two.

Mine is a 13” HG on a 12.5” Barrel with Troy Claymore muzzle Brake.

Results are worth the effort.

Hope that helps.

Rob