Winchester Model of 1894 Question

Back in the early days of jacketed bullets, cupro-nickel was quite often used. The jackets were somewhat silver in color. They also deposited a lumpy, pernicious fouling that ruined accuracy in short order. Before the change to gilding metal, there were some real problems. A snippet here from Hatcher's Notebook, might shed some light on your bore problem.
https://books.google.com/books?id=y...age&q=Hatcher's notebook fouling dope&f=false
 
Interesting, but I think I will pass on that fix. The old rifle has enough problems without me brewing up something that will eat up the barrel in minutes, if not administered correctly. I talked on the phone with an antique firearms dealer this morning. He would not venture a guess as to the rifle being unsafe without seeing the rifle. He did say [as you guys have mentioned] that this is not an uncommon problem with older rifles. He also repeated that there are ways to clean it up enough to at least shoot it a couple of times. I am going home tonight and scrub it with .308 bore brush wrapped with fine steel wool and Flitz. The Kroil Oil bath will be next on the list if this cleaning does not render improved results.
Thanks again for all of your information.
 
Most centerfire ammunition produced prior to the late 1950's used mercuric primers, and that resulted in more rusted and pitted barrels than any other factor.

Lots of military ammunition continued using mercuric primers even longer (1960's certainly, possibly 1970's as well). I was once placed in charge of a work detail at an Army post armory where we did nothing but disassemble, clean, and reassemble weapons for weeks. Rifles, pistols, machineguns, both US and foreign dating from WW2 through the 1960's. These were weapons used for specialized training, so no individual soldier had been responsible for cleaning and rust in the bores was quite common.

Most could be adequately cleaned using a dry bronze bore brush, then a bore brush with solvent. Those that were particularly difficult brought out the worn bronze brushes wrapped in steel wool, scrubbed without solvent. Then the solvent was applied, followed by normal cleaning. All were checked for throat erosion and muzzle erosion prior to being returned to the racks for next use. Very, very few were found to be out of spec, and no signs of damage were found due to this cleaning method.

Since that time I have bought, sold, and collected dozens of antique firearms, both military and civilian. I have used the same cleaning method repeatedly with excellent results.

Steel wool will not remove pitting. But it will remove surface rust, and do so without damaging bluing or nickel plating.
 
Wrap a bronze brush with 0000 steel wool and coat with J-B Bore Cleaning Paste. Sometimes rough barrels respond well to this .
I rescued a 7X57 model 95 Mauser military barrel like this. It looked like the insides of an old sewer pipe! Four sessions, arms would get tired, made it shootable. Still looks a bit "frosty" but shoots 3 hole groups covered by a quarter.
The secrete is J-B bore Paste, it's made specifically to clean and polish rifle barrels.
Gary
 
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