Wolff spring kit and 617 S&W

[stevieboy]

I purchased a 617 at a show a couple of years ago. Someone had obviously worked on the action because the trigger was lighter than on any of my other revolvers. My pleasure at the incredibly light and smooth action turned quickly to displeasure when I discovered that about one out of five rounds wouldn't fire in double action (single action was ok). So, I replaced the mainspring with a slightly heavier spring and it's been trouble-free ever since. Afterwards I spoke to someone at Smith who told me that they deliberately put in slightly heavier triggers than in their other K-L revolvers due to the inconsistency of .22 primers.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Has anyone installed the light main spring and rebound springs in their 617? Which rebound spring did you install? Did you polish, or stone anything? Did you have light strikes when you were finished? Would you recommend it based on personal experience?

No. Not needed. 22s are especially prone to misfires and you should stay with factory springs to make sure of positive ignition every time.

 

[9146gt]

The used outer cup of a primer will fit nicely over a strain screw.
Tom

 

[sar4937]

That might be the ticket, Thanks!

 

[wellfedirishman]

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I just got the Wolff reduced power spring for my new 4" 617, and it is showing light strikes.

What length of 8-32 set screw do you need to use with the reduced power spring? I just want to know what size to order.

Thanks for any info!

 

[james56]

Set Screw

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I just got the Wolff reduced power spring for my new 4" 617, and it is showing light strikes.

What length of 8-32 set screw do you need to use with the reduced power spring? I just want to know what size to order.

Thanks for any info!

The set screw I found is 5/10ths in. long. the clerk told me that they didnt make them in SS? But it works just fine and really made a difference, you just have to keep tighting as you fire at the range, until it fires consistently. Never had a FTF since!
Here's a cpl of pic's of my 617
james S&WCA #2281

 

[sar4937]

I purchased a stainless set screw at the local Ace/Westlake hardware store.

 

[drh686]

I installed a Jerry Miculek spring kit in my 617 and 686. Big difference for the better. You can adjust the main spring to prevent misfires. The kit costs about 16 dollars. Good luck

 

[Joebklyn]

What lenghth strain screw to use with reduced mainspring on S&W 617...

I'd like to replace my rebound spring with a 13lb. spring. I've read here that a reduced mainspring will need an 8-32 set screw. I see online the lengths are 3/16", 1/4" , 5/16", 3/8". Is there any particular length to use with the reduced power mainspring? This is only for a 617. Thanks!

 

[Protocall_Design]

You want a #8-32 x 1/2" set screw for all S&W revos. All the ones I've done, anyway. Check McMaster-Carr for all fastener needs.

I like the black carbon steel ones best. The stainless ones are softer and the hex gets stripped out easier on them. Use blue LocTite to secure them and you will never have any rust problems, as the Loctite seals the threads. I get the flat point or dog point ones.

 

[AzShooter]

I've tried everything in my 617. The best I've come up with is an 11 pound rebound spring and the stock mainspring which gives me 100% reliability.

Keep your set screw tight. There is no need to loosen it and defeat the power of your mainspring.

With polishing the internals and adding longer firing pin I've been able to get a sub 7 pound trigger on this gun and it shoots very well.