Won a Sparrow SS and 2 things suck

[Csc57]

First, i had to pay 200 to get the tax stamp. Second I can't get my muzzle break off my 15-22.

Just sent in the paperwork so 6 to 8 months until I get the suppressor.

There is a gun smith 5 mins from my house so I think I am going to have him remove the muzzle break.

Other than that I feel really lucky to win the Sparrow SS using 2 $5 tickets.

 

[strobro32]

Remind him to clamp to the barrel, not the receiver before removing the FH.

Once he removes the FH, you will need to cut down the threads to .400" or add a .200" spacer. If he cuts the barrel down, use the Sparrow thread specs.

Congrats on the win!

 

[97catintenn]

The muzzel break is a pain to get off. I clamped my barrel in a small vice and while removing it, the barrel turned a 1/4" and removed the black covering, leaving a nice shiney spot on my barrel. So, make sure it is clamped down really good, cause it is going to take a good amount of toque to get it off.

And one thing that doesn't suck, is you are getting a sweet suppressor! not one of the cheaper ones either, congrats!

 

[sithlord]

The muzzel break is a pain to get off. I clamped my barrel in a small vice and while removing it, the barrel turned a 1/4" and removed the black covering, leaving a nice shiney spot on my barrel. So, make sure it is clamped down really good, cause it is going to take a good amount of toque to get it off.

And one thing that doesn't suck, is you are getting a sweet suppressor! not one of the cheaper ones either, congrats!

Clamp the barrel tight and add a little heat. I use two blocks of wood, one with a curved channel, the other flat. You can't clamp it too tight...

 

[trebor127]

just use 2 wooden blocks in the vice and drill out a 5/8" hole down the middle of the 2 blocks a simple fix........and the 5/8" hole gives more area contact,than just using 2 blocks undrilled......clamp tight in a vice and using the correct size spanner (wrench)a sharp but gentle tap with a hammer on the wrench and bingo its off

keith

 

[swinokur]

You can buy this adapter from Silencerco to get the right thread depth. Has a thread protector as well.

http://www.store.silencerco.com/col...8-with-o-ring-engagement-and-thread-protector

 

[BigWaylon]

You can buy this adapter from Silencerco to get the right thread depth. It has an O ring built in to keep the can tight. Has a thread protector as well.

http://www.store.silencerco.com/col...8-with-o-ring-engagement-and-thread-protector

To be clear...the adapter doesn't have "an o-ring built in to keep the can tight". The adapter has a smooth area per SiCo specs that allows for o-ring engagement. The TP has an o-ring, as will the Sparrow (or Spectre or Warlock).

ADCO cut my 15-22 barrel and used the SiCo specs, and it actually matches the spec sheet more closely than the SiCo adapters. (Nothing wrong with the SiCo adapters, as I run them on an AR57, M&P22 and GSG 1911-22).

 

[strobro32]

BTW, the title of this thread... way millennial.

:chainyank

 

[roadkill45]

clamp your barrel as above in the wood clamps, then put a little heat to it with a propane torch, my first one came off with just a hand twist, second had to heat up since they used red locktite it looked like, but heat breaks just about everything metal loose.

 

[swinokur]

To be clear...the adapter doesn't have "an o-ring built in to keep the can tight". The adapter has a smooth area per SiCo specs that allows for o-ring engagement. The TP has an o-ring, as will the Sparrow (or Spectre or Warlock).

ADCO cut my 15-22 barrel and used the SiCo specs, and it actually matches the spec sheet more closely than the SiCo adapters. (Nothing wrong with the SiCo adapters, as I run them on an AR57, M&P22 and GSG 1911-22).

my error I meant the thread protector has an O ring to keep it tight.

will fix my post