Worn Blueing and field use

WNC Seabee

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I have a 4" Model 10-5 that was a security company trade in. The blueing is very well worn, but the gun is in otherwise terrific condition. No pitting.

I often times take off for 2-3 day back country fishing trips and am considering carrying this Model 10.

My question has to do with the condition the metal. Without the bluieng, do I run significant risk of rust developing in that short a time? It is conceivable that the gun would get well-soaked on occassion as I tend to wade deep and stumble a lot!

My other option is a 3" SP101 (stainless), but I'd prefer to sell the SP if the M10 will do the trick.
 
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Proper cleaning and lubrication works wonders. I have a Model 10 that goes duck hunting and has been wet on occasion. If it gets wet I dry it off and wipe it with a preservative. If it gets soaked or actually goes in swimming I clean and re-oil it, wiping on a preservative after I'm finished.

The dog had been swimming the other day and shook out all over it while it was lying on the bank beside my wife. I wiped it dry and wiped it down at day's end. It's always "good to go."
 
Proper cleaning and lubrication works wonders.

Well. Duh. That makes sense. I could just add a rag and small bottle of oil to the pack and be all set. I guess my backpacking mindset is to shave as many ounces as possible from the kit. (yes, I know, I could lose the gun and save plenty of ounces....)
 
Wax

Try waxing it with a good quality wax like Johnson's paste wax. I use wax to help preserve my guns, and form a barrier from finger prints. A lot of forum members do the same...most using Renaissance Wax and I have used both and the Johnson's ought to work for you just fine.
Obviously it wont help the internals but if you spray a little CLP or other lube in the guts you'll be fine.
 
I don't think it's a problem if you wipe off and lube. You might consider purchasing a spray can of Boeshield. It dries to a waxy coating. We use it on our fishing and other gear for salt water.

I have an Ithaca Model 37 that has very little bluing remaining. I rarely put it in a gun case and it has spent many rainy days in a boat or duck blind. It still does just fine, but not in the appearance department. The worn camo paint job adds character now.
 
I concur with the waxing with a good quality wax.

I also would keep a oil cloth handy..it wouldn't weigh that much.

Patrick
 
I have an 1895 Winchester that sees daily use riding in a conventional saddle scabbard on a motor cycle. The gun is mostly in the white. It was that way when I got it as some old timer gave it a lot of scabbard time too. No rust problem as long as I wipe it down each day and don't leave it in a wet scabbard.
 
Now Dan, that is a proper way to outfit a motorcycle, with a '95 Winchester.
 
I'm not all that sure that bluing actually protects guns from rusting. Keep your piece wiped down with a product like CLP and you'll be fine.
 
I would just wax it like has already been said. You can also carry a rag covered in oil in a zip lock bag just for the added insurance.
 
I also add militec1 to my cleaning and lubrication after each range use of my guns.It is a dry lube that supposedly bonds to the metal on a molecular level.I can only tell you the stuff works.When my pistol accidently got wet the water immeadiately beads.A few wipes with a towel and you are good to go.They also give free trial samples if you request one. MILITEC-1 - The ONLY all-purpose synthetic metal conditioner and gun oil God Bless......Mike
 
Hi:
I would carry the Ruger SP-101 and keep the S&W M-10 as a House or Vehicle weapon. The Ruger you have the option of a wider range of ammo plus it is a "Stronger" weapon for "Hot" loads.
Jimmy
 
This old Colt has been getting carried around in a leather holster since I got it from my grandfather in 1995. The finish in the photo was exactly how he gun looked when I got it. Its gets oiled every so often.
colt.jpg
 
It's not lack of finish that makes them rust--it's lack of care by the owner. I have a couple that are around 50% finish, and there is no rust on them.
 
Even Stainless will rust if not taken care of (just more resistant than carbon steel). If you dry it and oil it it will be OK but I agree that that the 101 would be my choice. Good luck which ever way you go : Bill
 
In my mind there are two kinds of firearms: NIB or LNIB collector grade, Safe Queens and shooters. I don't own anything in the first category.

Serious collecters excepted I see no reason not to use every firearm I own. That involves increased exposure to risk such as weather, body sweat, drops, and bumps. But proper care and cleaning administered in a timely manner will minimize all of the above.

Let's face it, you can hardly wear out a good quality firearm except through abuse and neglect, and in rare cases by ultra high volume shooting.

All of the care options shared by others are good advice. I just hope I live long enough and get into the field often enough to put honest wear on every firearm I own.
 
I have an Ithaca Model 37 that has very little bluing remaining.

I had to go check my safe to make sure you hadn't stolen my Ithaca! I've got my grandpa's Model 37, January 1941 built, that is mostly bare metal along the barrel. It's been my field gun since I inherited it at 12, about 25 years ago. Of course there's no rust since it gets a nice cleaning and wipe down with RIG after each use.

Guys, I truly appreciate all of the feedback. Looking back on my original post, I think I just had a "brain cramp". Of course I can carry my Model 10; just add an oily rag to my kit. Duh.

I (as most backpacker tend to do) was focused on shaving ounces from the load I carry.
 
This rode under my wife's car seat, in the bottom of her purse, you name it, for many years. I had shown her how to care for it but, she seldom did.

I would wipe and oil it 'bout twice a year but, it had become somewhat speckled with rust. To really get at all the rust, I removed some of the bluing, too.

I did this years ago. It seldom rides in her car now as she seldom drives. I keep a fine coat of oil on it. No more rust problems. I sometimes consider getting it re-blued but, haven't yet and may never. It was bought new in the late 70's (I think).

M36.jpg
 
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