OP
JJEH
Member
Well, I keep practicing...
Would like to get some photo advice please...
- Thread starter JJEH
- Start date
Well, I keep practicing...
OP
JJEH
Member
Thank you very much Sir!
Straightshooter2
US Veteran
Jorge, there is a book by Bryan Peterson called Understanding Exposure. For anyone wanting to improve their photos this book should be in their collection. I've been shooting film SLRs since 1970, digital SLRs since 2008 and occasionally shoot with a 645 medium format film camera. I still re-read it and consider it well worth the cost. (I just looked and it's $17.15 online.)
I always try to shoot manual mode with my digital cameras (depending on the situation) and then overexpose my shot by 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. This seems to give a little more detail to objects when shooting closeups. It also helps when the subject being photographed is fooling the camera's meter. For instance, if you shoot a snowy scene, your camera meter, as was mentioned in an earlier post, is going to try to set the exposure so that everything is based on 18% gray. Therefore, white snow comes out gray. By overexposing, you get a truer white to the snow. Another trick is to bracket your exposure. What this means is to shoot what the meter tells you to shoot, then overexpose by one stop and underexpose by one stop. For instance, say the meter tells you to shoot 1/125th of a second at f/8. You shoot at f/8 but you also overexpose at f/5.6 and underexpose at f/11. Try it and you might be surprised at what you get. Also see if you can avoid using your camera's built in flash. There is a reason a lot of photography teachers call these "ugly light makers."
Also someone said use the timer to avoid shake. Some cameras, and I don't know about yours, allow you to set the camera so that the mirror will move up out of the way about 3 seconds before the shutter opens and closes. This helps avoid mirror slap when shooting on a tri-pod. Mirror slap can cause vibrations when the mirror pops up out of the way just as the shutter opens. By having the mirror move up out of the way 3 seconds before the picture is taken, those vibrations are minimized. Another great thing to have, if your camera is set up for it, is a remote shutter release. Using one of those, you don't have to even touch the camera to trip the shutter. These last tips don't help your exposure as far as lighter and darker go but they can help with a sharper photo.
Here's a trick for some of you more advanced photographers. Try setting your camera on the tungsten mode along with using yellow gel over your flash at full power and/or your other 6500k light sources. This is a technique Sports Illustrated photographers use a lot.
CW
I always try to shoot manual mode with my digital cameras (depending on the situation) and then overexpose my shot by 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. This seems to give a little more detail to objects when shooting closeups. It also helps when the subject being photographed is fooling the camera's meter. For instance, if you shoot a snowy scene, your camera meter, as was mentioned in an earlier post, is going to try to set the exposure so that everything is based on 18% gray. Therefore, white snow comes out gray. By overexposing, you get a truer white to the snow. Another trick is to bracket your exposure. What this means is to shoot what the meter tells you to shoot, then overexpose by one stop and underexpose by one stop. For instance, say the meter tells you to shoot 1/125th of a second at f/8. You shoot at f/8 but you also overexpose at f/5.6 and underexpose at f/11. Try it and you might be surprised at what you get. Also see if you can avoid using your camera's built in flash. There is a reason a lot of photography teachers call these "ugly light makers."
Also someone said use the timer to avoid shake. Some cameras, and I don't know about yours, allow you to set the camera so that the mirror will move up out of the way about 3 seconds before the shutter opens and closes. This helps avoid mirror slap when shooting on a tri-pod. Mirror slap can cause vibrations when the mirror pops up out of the way just as the shutter opens. By having the mirror move up out of the way 3 seconds before the picture is taken, those vibrations are minimized. Another great thing to have, if your camera is set up for it, is a remote shutter release. Using one of those, you don't have to even touch the camera to trip the shutter. These last tips don't help your exposure as far as lighter and darker go but they can help with a sharper photo.
Here's a trick for some of you more advanced photographers. Try setting your camera on the tungsten mode along with using yellow gel over your flash at full power and/or your other 6500k light sources. This is a technique Sports Illustrated photographers use a lot.
CW
OP
JJEH
Member
Thanks for all this advice guys. It's alot to me, had never ever so much interest in taking pictures. So everything is new to me and right now I have no idea what you guys are talking about
But I will consider your book advice Straightshooter2 and get it in the near future. Tomorrow I will read the manual again and take some new - exciting - pictures
Thanks again.
FYI: Please feel free to "abuse" this thread to show off all of your pictures
But I will consider your book advice Straightshooter2 and get it in the near future. Tomorrow I will read the manual again and take some new - exciting - pictures
Thanks again.
FYI: Please feel free to "abuse" this thread to show off all of your pictures
OP
JJEH
Member
M&P40
OP
JJEH
Member
Here I was playing with the software.
Not a Andy Warhol, but maybe another kind of pop art... ?
Not a Andy Warhol, but maybe another kind of pop art... ?
OP
JJEH
Member
I kinda like this one.
Also played with the software here a bit...
Also played with the software here a bit...
tom turner
US Veteran
Another simple observation . . . and one that is surely known by any wedding photographer.
Light bounces off everything around what you are shooting, so be mindful of this when you process your digital image.
FOR INSTANCE . . .
The bride to be wants an outdoor shooting session in her pure white dress on a grassy hill.
PROBLEM #1 . . . the booked day turns out with bright sun and a clear blue sky.
PROBLEM #2 . . . the rich green grass reflects that sunlight well.
RESULT? Her pure white dress looks blueish white on top, changing into mint green on bottom rather than pure white!
BACK TO GUNS . . .
Your guns will "change" colors too . . . picking up the ambient light that reflects off your background . . . and also a blue sky if you shoot on a day that isn't totally overcast.
The camera "sees" differently than our eyes + brain do in real time.
- Our brain tells us we are seeing a pure white dress and our brain compensates to make this illusion seem real.
- Our camera simply records varying shades of colors and shades of bright/dark . . . and then it records a true image of what it picked up.
This is quite similar to the differences in how we "hear" something live, vs. hearing back the recording of that exact moment!
- Our brain will "turn off" the roar of a nearby air conditioner so we can enjoy the music BUT . . .
- In the recording the AC noise is BLENDED with the music, and it can't be separated later very well.
Thus, we must be mindful of these truths as we plan our camera shots . . . and consider what light will do when it bounces onto our subject to be shot.
Light bounces off everything around what you are shooting, so be mindful of this when you process your digital image.
FOR INSTANCE . . .
The bride to be wants an outdoor shooting session in her pure white dress on a grassy hill.
PROBLEM #1 . . . the booked day turns out with bright sun and a clear blue sky.
PROBLEM #2 . . . the rich green grass reflects that sunlight well.
RESULT? Her pure white dress looks blueish white on top, changing into mint green on bottom rather than pure white!
BACK TO GUNS . . .
Your guns will "change" colors too . . . picking up the ambient light that reflects off your background . . . and also a blue sky if you shoot on a day that isn't totally overcast.
The camera "sees" differently than our eyes + brain do in real time.
- Our brain tells us we are seeing a pure white dress and our brain compensates to make this illusion seem real.
- Our camera simply records varying shades of colors and shades of bright/dark . . . and then it records a true image of what it picked up.
This is quite similar to the differences in how we "hear" something live, vs. hearing back the recording of that exact moment!
- Our brain will "turn off" the roar of a nearby air conditioner so we can enjoy the music BUT . . .
- In the recording the AC noise is BLENDED with the music, and it can't be separated later very well.
Thus, we must be mindful of these truths as we plan our camera shots . . . and consider what light will do when it bounces onto our subject to be shot.
Last edited:
Jorge,
I took this a week or so ago. In my garage on AUTO mode, with 3 6500L spiral lights in the aluminum reflectors. No settings or photo shop. I cropped it to cut some of the blue stuff. So a decent shot can be made without a lot of work. It is not a crisp detail but if I get closer and macro it you can see the dust.
No it's not a work of art or as good as a lot of the pictures posted but it works for my record keeping. I have other shots of the gun for ID, other side, serial number etc.
I took this a week or so ago. In my garage on AUTO mode, with 3 6500L spiral lights in the aluminum reflectors. No settings or photo shop. I cropped it to cut some of the blue stuff. So a decent shot can be made without a lot of work. It is not a crisp detail but if I get closer and macro it you can see the dust.
No it's not a work of art or as good as a lot of the pictures posted but it works for my record keeping. I have other shots of the gun for ID, other side, serial number etc.
OP
JJEH
Member
Thanks for all this awesome advice guys. I like all of your pictures and I will keep practicing. But first I have to re-read the WHOLE manual... my problem is that I can read all the words... but I need to understand what am I doing...
I'll keep you posted
I'll keep you posted
Thanks for all this awesome advice guys. I like all of your pictures and I will keep practicing. But first I have to re-read the WHOLE manual... my problem is that I can read all the words... but I need to understand what am I doing...
I'll keep you posted
Don't feel bad. I have a very nice Sony Cybershot. Great camera and lens but the instructions are some of the worst ever on trying to understand the different settings and it is automatic. I can switch to A or P, M but to plus all the other programed settings, beach, snow, fast action etc etc. I have read them several times and fiddle with something but then forget. So I am content with AUTO and good lighting.
OP
JJEH
Member
So I am content with AUTO and good lighting.
That's what I'm talking about...
The Fuji has the same gimmicks... snow, ocean, red eyes, spaceships... way too much stuff...
Back to Basics.
I sure wish I could find a digital camera that would let me set everything manually: speed, aperture, ISO and light temperature. It would LIVE on my copy stand. I find myself fighting the camera which wants to do everything automatically or lets me set one thing manually and then adjust all the others to match automatically. Any suggestions for a manually operated digital?
I sure wish I could find a digital camera that would let me set everything manually: speed, aperture, ISO and light temperature. It would LIVE on my copy stand. I find myself fighting the camera which wants to do everything automatically or lets me set one thing manually and then adjust all the others to match automatically. Any suggestions for a manually operated digital?
LouisianaJoe
Member
That is what the A, P and M are.
I have found good info for beginners and experienced users here: Digital Photography Tips: Digital Photography School You can sign up for their newsletter and they cover different topics in each. They will try to sell you some digital books from time to time but I ignore that.
That is what the "auto" setting does. Mine does it pretty well. Then you have the other settings which try to duplicate manual settings, I use the auto and turn off the flash rather than have it pop up automatically. Unless I am shooting in complete darkness. All the top name brands are good today. Sony, Cannon, Nikon, Panasonic etc
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OP
JJEH
Member
A view from my porch, today, Thursday, 09/27/2012, 1110h
OP
JJEH
Member
New picture
^^^
There ya go!
Nice gun and PICTURE
There ya go!
Nice gun and PICTURE
OP
JJEH
Member
Thank you Sir.
I changed the rubber grips with these WC G10. I hope she likes it as much as I do
Also, I will invest in better lights...
I changed the rubber grips with these WC G10. I hope she likes it as much as I do
Also, I will invest in better lights...
Thank you Sir.
I changed the rubber grips with these WC G10. I hope she likes it as much as I do
Also, I will invest in better lights...
What's not to like?
Better than a big old Beretta 92
Did you ever get the fancy display box?
OP
JJEH
Member
Not yet. The one I like is $180 + shipping.
On the other hand I want it to be her carry gun. So I already have an order with Jason Winnie Holster
http://www.jasonwinnie.com/Home.html
Not for sure if I should get a box. Wouldn't be in it at all...
Straightshooter2
US Veteran
My Pentax K-10 on manual will allow me to set both the shutter speed and aperture using the front and rear dials while looking through the viewfinder. ISO can be set by means of the Fn button on the back and then using the same dials. Also when using the Fn button you can go in to the lighting settings to select auto white balance, daylight, cloudy, tungsten, 3 different fluorescent settings, flash, and you can change the the color temperature. I was able to move the color temperature from below 3000K to up over 7000k so that should cover just about anything you need. And that's a Pentax model that was discontinued in 2009. I would be willing to bet that you can do the same with later models but maybe John or Sip could verify this on their later model Pentax.
CW
tacreload
Member
Jorge,I just caught this thread today and I am like you always trying to get better photos.A lot of great advice here,I did not see using a remote mentioned.The remote used with the tripod helps me a lot.A very good friend gave me his old Nikon D70 and I have been trying to master it since(don't see it happening).I am getting there slowly but probably never be satisfied but keep trying.These pics marked after have been doctored using a Photoshop type disc from Sony that came with a Sony point and shoot I got several years ago.They are the same as the ones marked before except I cheated and adjusted them to what I thought were better images.The light always plays games with me so I almost always have to make some adjustments.Your pictures already show a big difference from the very first ones.It's a great hobby and I never get tired of trying to improve.My wife says "you got more pictures of your guns than you do your grandkids!"I tell her the guns stand still.
OP
JJEH
Member
Thanks for your kind words. Your answer is good and it is true. Guns don't move and blink
Well, I enjoy doing pictures with my bridge camera. But I do not want spend a 4 digit number on a DSLR or what the name is. I sure cannot handle that
OP
JJEH
Member
And more. Sorry, I couldn't help...
OP
JJEH
Member
I guess I got a new hobby now...
By "Jorge" I think he's got it! You can skip the deco stuff though.
I like the muzzle shot on the ammo box
You can skip the deco stuff though.I like the muzzle shot on the ammo box
This is an interesting thread and thought I would share my method of taking photos. I am by no means an expert but I find I can take decent photos with with inexpensive and minimal equipment. I purchased a light box kit that comes with a folding box, two lights, tripod, backgrounds and it all folds together for storage. My main criticism of the kit is that the included lights are not quite bright enough so I set it up under a hanging dining room fixture for additional light. It can also be used outdoors if the wind is relatively calm. The kit is about $35 and works well for me and here is a link to it. Amazon.com: Idirectmart Photo Tent Table Top Studio Light Photography Soft Box Kit - Size 19.5-Inch Cube: Camera & Photo
My camera is an inexpensive pocket sized point and shoot Sony with few manual controls. It does have a self-timer to allow it to be placed on a tripod to take photos hands-off to minimize movement. There is also a control to allow one to open up the F-stop or increase the ISO some to make the pictures brighter which helps to compensate for the somewhat dim lighting. This feature probably has a negative impact on the depth-of-field but careful positioning of the gun does help. It has auto-focus which also can be challenge but by moving the camera a bit I can usually achieve desired results. The camera also has auto white-balance but by running the images through a photo editing program it is possible to achieve a decent color.
Here are a few photos I recently took that I am pleased with.
My camera is an inexpensive pocket sized point and shoot Sony with few manual controls. It does have a self-timer to allow it to be placed on a tripod to take photos hands-off to minimize movement. There is also a control to allow one to open up the F-stop or increase the ISO some to make the pictures brighter which helps to compensate for the somewhat dim lighting. This feature probably has a negative impact on the depth-of-field but careful positioning of the gun does help. It has auto-focus which also can be challenge but by moving the camera a bit I can usually achieve desired results. The camera also has auto white-balance but by running the images through a photo editing program it is possible to achieve a decent color.
Here are a few photos I recently took that I am pleased with.
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